Cleaning Buck knives

I'm at work with my 501MS Squire and a sticky pivot action (doubtless due to the constant pocket carry) and dirt in the blade cavity area.

Anyone know what's recommended for general cleaning of Buck knives? Can I just flush the whole thing under some hot water or will that just rust the whole danged thing over?

Sorry I don't have my "users manual/pamphlet" with me, and Buck's site doesn't mention anything about cleaning that I could see (only sharpening). I'll probably get to my pamphlet at home tonight, but in case anyone's around who already knows, I'd appreciate the info. Thanks.

BTW, the 532's got some nice filework on the liners, but does anyone really use this knife for hunting? Seems like blood and guts in the filework, pivot and lockup areas would be tough to clean out, especially since you can't take the knife apart.

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Longden Loo - Ventura, CA
Technology's the answer, what's the question?

 
Joe Houser

Joe Houser

Joined
Aug 24, 1999
Messages
3,135
Longden,
I always clean my knives with warm soapy water. When i am finished i dry the knife thouroughly, inside and out. Next thing to do is coat it with oil. I use honing oil because i don't know any better. ;-)
Since you carry yours in your pocket, make sure you use a toothpick to clean out the rocker engagement notch on the blade. It can get filled up with lint real fast.
Don't worry about using the 501ms to gut a deer. It will get gunked up but cleans up easily with the above method.

Hope this helps,


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Joe Houser
Director of Quality, Buck Knives Inc.
Buck Collectors club Administrator
 
Thanks Joe. Warm soapy water is easy enough to come by at work ... oil may be a bit harder so maybe I'll wait till I'm home.
 
Longden,

I usually keep a can of Barryman's Chemtool in my garage (aerosol carburator cleaner).

This forces solvent under pressure into the gaps and really cleans the pivot surfaces well. It only takes a couple of shots, and it's as good as new.

-pete

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pete quintanilla
Buck Knives, Inc.


 
Thanks Pete, a great tip ... like using a compressed air jet and a solvent at the same time!

I wouldn't have tried this earlier out of fear for the petrochems in the aerosol damaging the wood scales.
 
Hey great tip on the carb cleaner, Pete! I never thought of that, and we use it frequently when cleaning out carbs here at our auto repair shop.
smile.gif


Dan
 
Carb cleaner usually has a lot of xylene in it. That makes it very tough on a lot of plastics, adhesives, and surface finishes. I generally would only use it on all-metal knives.

One way of taking apart an epoxy bonded assembly is to soak it in xyxlene for a few days then twist apart.

Even rubbing alcohol can sometimes remove surface features on plastic hand grips. I tend to use plain tap water running fast out of a faucet as a first line of defense. Next up is a little dish detergent and water. Then I use alcohol on pipe cleaners. You usually have to relube when done. Small amounts of Lubriplate works pretty well.
 
Jeff (or anyone), what's Lubriplate?

I see from a websearch that they manufacture a range of lube oils/grease. Do they have a specific product that's preferable for knives?

Otherwise, I imagine any good oil will do. I've been using my daughter's oboe oil (used for lubing the keywork on her oboe ... because it as a nice needle point applicator and I figure if it's good enough for her $3K oboe ...

Not that I think she'll ever fight me for my Lubriplate
smile.gif
(whatever it is)
 
Lubriplate is a very light white grease made for lubricating delicate motors, dials, etc. I use it on things like tape recorders, record players, etc. I've commonly got it at good hardware stores or electronics components stores.

It's clean and effective. I forget if it has moly in it. It's supposed to stick to the surfaces "like plating". It comes in toothpaste-sized tubes and is handy to have around. I don't go much for real expensive, special purpose products, that you buy in small quantities.

I usually apply very small amounts with the tip of a toothpick.

 
Thanks Jeff. I've got to stop by the hardware store today to pick up some cotter pins and maybe I'll check out the grease aisle while I'm there.

I think some people say they use the expensive specialty oils because they're suppose to resist attracting lint.
 
Joe Houser said:
Longden,
I always clean my knives with warm soapy water. When i am finished i dry the knife thouroughly, inside and out. Next thing to do is coat it with oil. I use honing oil because i don't know any better. ;-)
Since you carry yours in your pocket, make sure you use a toothpick to clean out the rocker engagement notch on the blade. It can get filled up with lint real fast.
Don't worry about using the 501ms to gut a deer. It will get gunked up but cleans up easily with the above method.

Hope this helps,


------------------
Joe Houser
Director of Quality, Buck Knives Inc.
Buck Collectors club Administrator
Click to expand...
How often should you use the oil? Do you put in on all the joints and the blade?
 
Kvk09 said:
God bless. Just trying to preserve my first knife
Click to expand...
I don't work for Buck, but this is what I do for my knives.

After you wash it with hot soapy water, a drop or two on the joints is a good idea. Work the joint a few times to work it in. Most Buck knives are stainless steel, so wiping down the blade isn't really necessary, but it won't hurt anything. If the blade is carbon steel, a lite film of oil on the blade is a good idea. It shouldn't take much. There is no reason to make an oily mess. Wipe of any excess with a paper towel. I like to use mineral oil, because it won't leave a nasty taste if I happen to cut some food afterwards. As to how often? As often as you think the knife need cleaning, or whenever the blade action starts to get a little stiff.

O.B
 
Old Biker said:
I don't work for Buck, but this is what I do for my knives.

After you wash it with hot soapy water, a drop or two on the joints is a good idea. Work the joint a few times to work it in. Most Buck knives are stainless steel, so wiping down the blade isn't really necessary, but it won't hurt anything. If the blade is carbon steel, a lite film of oil on the blade is a good idea. It shouldn't take much. There is no reason to make an oily mess. Wipe of any excess with a paper towel. I like to use mineral oil, because it won't leave a nasty taste if I happen to cut some food afterwards. As to how often? As often as you think the knife need cleaning, or whenever the blade action starts to get a little stiff.

O.B
Click to expand...
Awesome. Thank you. This will help
 
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