Cleaning cotton & muslin polishing buffs

I have trouble keeping my finishing buff clean. I always wipe down the blade before using the finishing buff w/white diamond but, most of the time it turns black quickly.
Any tips on cleaning the buffs? Any tips on cleaning a blade before taking it to the finishing buff?

thanks ahead of time.

john s.
 
GARY B

GARY B

Joined
Apr 17, 1999
Messages
170
Any of the Knifemaker supply houses will carry a wheel rake. They run about $5 for just the rake head and $10-12 for a rake head mounted to a handle. I bet if you can make a knife, you can screw the rake to a piece of wood yourself. I would recommend using pink no scratch compound instead of the white. It leaves much less of the black residue you mentioned, unless of course you buff brass or nickle silver. It is great for getting the haze off a blade after green rouge and perfect for any handle material.

Hope this helps,
GaryB

p.s. If you have never used a wheel rake before, use EXTREME caution . Those pointy teeth will catch and yank the rake out of your hand faster than you can imagine. Go easy and keep a very firm grip on the rake handle.
 
magnum you can get it at K&G (knife & Gun Finishing Supplies)

What I would lie to know about is Brownells #555 polish, black gray and white? I have heard great stuff on this polish. Has anybody used it?

Also anybody use felt polishing wheels?
What Iam thinking about is get three hard felt wheels and three 90-ply loose muslin wheels.and use the 555 with it. That is how Brownells says to do it, use a hard felt then a loose muslin on each 555 polish,

Anybody got idea if it is worth it. those hard felt wheel aren't cheap. I would hte to waste my money

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-Greg Johnson
ICQ#4236341

 
Greg I would reconsider the loose muslin wheels. Loose wheels and knives are a dangerous combination, so much so that with all of my metal polishing experience I will NEVER use loose buffs on small parts like knives. Use a circular sewn wheel with 1/2" spacing between the rows of stitching instead, the result is the same and it is much safer than the loose buffs.



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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
Greg I would reconsider the loose muslin wheels. Loose wheels and knives are a dangerous combination, so much so that with all of my metal polishing experience I will NEVER use loose buffs on small parts like knives. Use a circular sewn wheel with 1/2" spacing between the rows of stitching instead, the result is the same and it is much safer than the loose buffs.

If you are getting black marks on the blade during final buff this is a symptom of too little buffing compound on the wheel. Yeah that is what I said too little compound, try increasing the amount of compound used and the black streaks will go away. You may have a little grease buildup but that can be wiped off with a rag later.


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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
Hey;

The hard felt wheels are usually used in an application where they have to be shaped to fit an odd shaped piece and buff just that one spot. They tend to gouge on the edges when used for general buffing. I use the medium ones for buffing small problem areas, such as the guard/ricasso junction. For general buffing I would recomend a sewn cotton or muslin buff. If your using a bench grinder or a 3700 rpm buffer, go with a 6 in buff, it lowers the surface speed and makes it easier to use than a larger buff. 8 in or larger are great on 1750 rpm buffers or buffers that are belt driven at a lower speed. But stay away from loose buffs, they are bad news with knives.

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I love my country! I just don't trust my government!
 
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