Clear Gorilla Glue

AVigil

AVigil

Adam Vigil working the grind
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Feb 17, 2009
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Just saw this advertised. It looks like it might come in handy

Clear, no foam, water resistant.
 
I recently tried it for affixing some handle scales. It worked really well. Easy to apply with no mixing and cleaned up easy with acetone. I'll see how it goes for hold. It's a solid 24 hours to set, but I preferred that to some quicker epoxy I have been using.
 
I might try it out, I've used and dislike regular gorilla glue though.... Very difficult to get joints as tight and clean as I like. I've used nothing but loctite ea-120hp (formerly hysol e-120hp) for the last few years now. It was west systems before that.
 
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Interesting. I'd have to see how it fares strength and durability wise before I started using it, but it might be good for certain applications.
 
Interesting... "For non porous surfaces only" which would seem to take wood handle scales out of the running.

I use gorilla glue on my sheaths. Get the leather damp for forming, put a line of original gorilla glue around the edge (needs moisture to react/adhere properly anyway), clamp it fairly lightly, and then finish the edge on the belt grinder. Quick, easy, and produces an excellent simple sheath.
 
Can you use coloring agents with it? ie epoxy dyes etc.
I love G-Flex but because it's amber it causes the white epoxy dye to come out off white.
 
Metalhead0483 said:
Interesting... "For non porous surfaces only" which would seem to take wood handle scales out of the running.

I use gorilla glue on my sheaths. Get the leather damp for forming, put a line of original gorilla glue around the edge (needs moisture to react/adhere properly anyway), clamp it fairly lightly, and then finish the edge on the belt grinder. Quick, easy, and produces an excellent simple sheath.
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That is for "dampening"
It says it is for wood, glass, metal, foam, ceramic.

Gorilla glue need some moisture to work.
 
Robert Erickson said:
Can you use coloring agents with it? ie epoxy dyes etc.
I love G-Flex but because it's amber it causes the white epoxy dye to come out off white.
Click to expand...
West systems might be worth trying. It's damn near water clear provided it doesn't sit around the shop for more than 3 years or so.
I used to use it for most of my work, and never had a problem. Still got some around here somewhere.
 
It has no issue adhering to wood. Stuck rosewood to 1080 without an issue. I just slightly damped the tang to ensure activation. Time will tell on durability.
 
IIRC original Gorilla Glue did then best in the glue wars.

A side note, if you have not tried their Duct Tape you need to. It is the best.
 
Gorilla tape really is. Nothing will stick in sub-freezing temps or wet surfaces like Gorilla tape.
 
I have a bit of a back and forth with a buddy of mine, we try to make packages to eachother as miserable to open as possible. Last one from him had two full rolls of gorilla tape wrapping something shoe box size.... Took quite a while to carve my way through that...
 
I assume that is a polyurethane adhesive which is good for gap filling and a fairly reliable adhesive.
On the other hand, it does not have the strength of epoxy when trying to attach wood to steel. Even Elmers glue is stronger when attaching wood to wood. It has it's uses, but be sure to know what you are doing before using.
 
golfer1 said:
I assume that is a polyurethane adhesive which is good for gap filling and a fairly reliable adhesive.
On the other hand, it does not have the strength of epoxy when trying to attach wood to steel. Even Elmers glue is stronger when attaching wood to wood. It has it's uses, but be sure to know what you are doing before using.
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I don't know if the clear is a PU adhesive, but the Original Gorilla glue is and it out performed pretty much all epoxies for wood to metal IIRC the glue war conclusions. The problem was the foaming and the bubble in the glue line.
 
I saw one guy using gorilla glue for gluing up the components of a wa handle. He said that it was the best at standing up to the heat of grinding. With that said, I recall that he still used epoxy for the final gluing of the tang into the handle.
 
I would say no, it's something altogether different although they only list <5% of the ingredient content. But their technical specs say that it's non-foaming, gap filling, and water resistant but not for constant immersion, where their polyurethane glue is foaming, non-gap filling, waterproof.
 
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