Clr

[Operator1975]

I had read about some guys using this to remove rust - so I bought some and tried it. Left an axe head covered for a day - pretty much no results. Didnt see a removal of rust really, at least worth the time. So, did I do something wrong, or is it just a so-so product for this application? I thought this would work better. i have also heard of vinegar, mustard, and coca-cola for rust removal. Or maybe I am under the wrong thinking - it isnt to remove the rust itself - but to make the rust easier to remove.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[Pipeman]

I hate that stuff. They say it's "organic" but it gives me a serious headache. I believe it's mainly for calcium build up and possibly degreasing. For proper cleaning up of early pocket knives I use food grade mineral oil and a piece of wood usually a bamboo meat screwer. If i'm doing an axe with no real antique value I use a grinder or emery cloth but I like to leave the age and patina alone if it has some history.

Regards

Robin

 

[BRab]

I soak axe heads in vinegar overnight. As you said at the end of your post, it doesn't remove the rust, but loosens it. I can then usually get most of the rust off just rubbing with a wet rag. If there is still a lot of rust left, I will let it soak in the vinegar again. Works well for me, but may not be the best option if head is heavily pitted.

 

[cckw]

I would have saved you a few dollars if I had gotten around to this sooner. I tested side by side CLR and cheap white vinegar. First off, neither does it in 24 hours. it takes 2-3 days depending on the rust. Vinegar works slightly better then CLR. Vinegar didn't need 3 days on any head, one head after 3 had stubborn rust in CLR, I switched it to vinegar for a day and it all came off. Conclusion: Twenty cents worth of vinegar works better then six dollars worth of CLR.


After you do this it will surface rust pretty easy. Of course you want to rinse the vinegar off, then dry the head. black stuff will get on your hands and anything else it touches. I run water from the garden hose across it and brush with a wire brush outside and olld toothbrush inside. It will need sanded, the surface will be rough from small pits that have been cleaned out, plus whatever texture was already there. The heat treated area will be darker, so you will know what you have.

By the way, I did one head that was so abused by the time I removed rust and distorted metal it weighed a hair under 2 pounds and was marked 2 and 1/4. But the heat treat goes way back on it and I have it shaped up again so it is now a nice usable head. it was an antique store purchase for $2.00

 

[jds1]

When I used CLR on a severely rusted head it took about a week of soaking and rotation to get the job done, but it came completely clean. I didn't buy it for this purpose, but thought I'd give it a whirl to see how it would work. I guess I'll try vinegar next time.

Jeff

 

[PDE]

I have some stuff called Navel Jelly, it removes rust
like nobody's business. It is always an option.

 

[Operator1975]

I have been using my 4 inch grinder and coarse wire wheel - which really works when it comes to rust. I had one yesterday - I got the head so hot that when I removed it from the vise, I couldnt hold it. Hit it with WD40 and it steamed off. But it looked good. Downside is I blow all those rust particles into the air, and in my basement, and then I am left to breath them in. So I do wear goggles and a mask, but that gets old. Then after about 6 to 8 HighLifes I forget to wear it.

I just got 5 old rusty heads. So I am going to compare vinegar, CLR, mustard, coca-cola, and The Works Toilet Bowl Cleaner. I will let each do its thing for 5 days, then remove and wipe down. I will let you all know who the winner is.

We will see what happens.

 

[Dusty One]

I have used Mustard several time's and have been happy with it. But I do put the head in a plastic bag with the mustard so it doesnt dry out right away....