Coating a Wrapped Handle

M

me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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What is a good way to put an epoxy coating or something similar on a wrapped handle? I wrapped a handle on a shop knife I made and was wondering how to do this so the wrap would not come undone. The wrap is white 1/8" line from Lowe's under paracord diamond.
 
I have only done one, you can see it right now in the Knifemakers gallery.

I used star-bond (the thinnest viscosity) pure cynoacrylate applied with a q-tip and was very happy with how it turned out. Mine got a slightly glossy look to it after the second coat but it looks and feels great.


I think the West System would probably be even better though, Johnathan (Mitchell Knives) makes some NICE stuff.
 
I primarily make Japanese styled fixed blades with stingray and tsukamaki wrap.

The other makers who do this style of knife have pointed me to West Systems epoxy. (Thanks Pohan and Sam!) They tell me that the stuff dries clear, and has a "dry" look when the handle is cured. Like Mr. Mitchell said, you cant tell any epoxy is on the knife.

The stuff is expensive, about $80 for the resin and the hardener. They come in pretty large cans, and I don't think they offer any smaller amount. They also offer a plastic pump for easy measuring, (like on a lotion bottle or somethin, but bigger).

I imagine the west systems stuff can do thousands of handles. The price is worth it.

A bit of advice, If you ever get the Kirby Lambert cord wrapping DVD, stay away from his advice on using "Titebond" polyurethane glue. That stuff is nothing but a foamy nightmare migraine. I never got it to work like he did on the video, and it's just awful.
 
Hi - Jonathan and I learned wrapping in the same shop, I think ;) The epoxy was the way that I learned it also. Just a few other things for consideration though:

I have used CA (super glue) with mixed results. The trick is to manage to not let anything touch the CA because it will get a white color to it. You'll also want to test various brands if you're going local. One other consideration with CA is that it can break down in water. You can look into Starbond from CPH International if you want a clear-drying, high-quality and water resistant CA.

The Jones brothers use bar top sealer from Lowe's. It goes on thick like lacquer and you can definitely tell the knives are coated, but it works well with their style. The stuff will probably survive a nuclear winter also.

I spoke with Kirby Lambert at Blade a few years ago, told him I'd watched his video and asked if he still recommended poly glue. Basically, he told me that he has a friend in the adhesives industry and that he didn't have one standard glue that he used anymore, because he was trying whatever was given to him by this friend. I don't know if that's still the case.
 
i wrapped a wakizashi handle once and used some dollar store super glue....man it looked like a dang flaky glazed donut after it dried. It was a pretty job too. One of the best wraps I had ever done.

Learned my lesson about the super glue. There could be better ones out there but i wont try it again :p

Kirby must be the MAN to have gotten that stuff to work right. i did the same exact thing he did, and I might as well have taken the length of the cord, a pack of juicy fruit gum and chewed them together.
 
I use West Systems 105/207, too. Sometimes the 204 hardener... it turns a deep amber colour as it ages.

Rick
 
Also, you can use 3M Bondo Fiberglass Resin (found at Autozone). That stuff is tough especially from the abrasion of the in and out from a .093 thick Concealex sheath!!! it's cheap compared to West System 105/207 (which I currently use still)

207 used to be called Special Coatings Hardener (Amber in color) and now it has been changed to Special Clear Hardener (clear in color) which dries a bit faster than the old stuff. You can get the amber stuff still from West System direct.
 
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