Cobra Class 4 versus Class 18?

[Omega Leather Works]

Pretty sizable difference in price (around 1k).

Anyone who knows these machines, why should I buy the 4 over the 18? Should I? I realize there is a significant difference between the thicknesses that can be sewn, but what other features make the price gap? I feel like I could do fine with the Class 18, but I *really* can't deal with buyers remorse when deciding between the two.

I've read that it's nice to have both (why?), but there's almost no chance of that happening without taking out a loan which I am loathe to do.

I looked for videos on the C18, but don't really find anything. Plenty on the 4 though...

 

[sheathmaker]

Anthony, dial 1 800 962 9880 and ask for Steve or David. They can answer your questions for sure. As for me I need both, one for heavier work and one for lighter work and each sheath I make….each and every one gets some time on both machines. All inlays are done on the 18 and all edge stitching is done on the 4 plus other applications for each.

If I had to choose which one first if would probably be the 4, but the 18 would soon follow.

Paul

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thanks Paul. I'm thinking about taking a drive to see them. I'm leaning toward the 18, but the 4 sure looks nice. I guess if I bought the 4 now, it would be easier to save for the 18 later. Honestly, I don't have the volume necessary to justify either, but I'm trying to look to the future...

 

[sheathmaker]

Well, Anthony it is a tricky decision. The machines will give you the capability of stepping up your production exponentially, but you have to have the orders to make that necessary. I started out with a Tippman Boss and then a little later I added a flat bed machine like the 18, and as things continued to pick up I added the Heavy stitcher and sold the Boss. Knowing what I know now I'd go for the 18 and the 4 now if I had nothing…….but then I DIDN'T know what I know now. These days it takes about me 60 to 90 days to fully amortize a machine and for that I'm very thankful.

Paul

 

[Horsewright]

Wait a couple of weeks before you go down Strig. Both Dave and Steve are on the road right now. I called Monday. Also call ahead of time and let them know you are coming and what you want to look at. They don't have a showroom per say but they will certainly show you what you want to see. They just need to make sure they have one built up to show you. Go with the 4 first.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Go with the 4 first.

Ahh! I'm so confused!

I'll call ahead.

I need to sell my bike to buy the machine. Gonna be a sad day seeing it go.

I'm not sure if you guys got rain the other day, but I was on 99s, I saw a guy on his harley merge into my lane just before the road narrowed to one lane. The traffic ahead slammed on their brakes and I watched the bike behind me. The guy came as close as I'd ever seen to wrecking without actually laying it down. He locked up the rear and it started coming around on him. He actually put his boot down like a dirt tracker and I think it was the only thing that kept him upright. On my sportbike if you lock up the rear, and by instinct let off, it'll buck you off almost certainly. Anyway, less than 5 minutes later it started to rain. Had it done so 5 minutes earlier I have no doubt at all that he'd have gone down at 70+mph. My own mishaps have been very scary, but that really freaked me out. All of a sudden, a new sewing machine looked like an excellent idea.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Well, Anthony it is a tricky decision. The machines will give you the capability of stepping up your production exponentially, but you have to have the orders to make that necessary. I started out with a Tippman Boss and then a little later I added a flat bed machine like the 18, and as things continued to pick up I added the Heavy stitcher and sold the Boss. Knowing what I know now I'd go for the 18 and the 4 now if I had nothing…….but then I DIDN'T know what I know now. These days it takes about me 60 to 90 days to fully amortize a machine and for that I'm very thankful.

Paul

Yeah definitely. This whole thing has had me guessing from the start. More than once I've settled for something that I ended up needing to replace nearly right away. That's why I'm taking this so seriously. I know either way it'll be a good purchase, but it's gonna have to boost my production level quite a bit. I'd say you earned the right to make that last comment.

 

[Horsewright]

Yeah them bikes ain't trustworthy like a good cowpony! Saw a Bmer go down at 70 to 75 one time. Guy was wearing a full set of leathers and was ok but man did he skid around for a ways. He'd forgot to lube er up and the driveshaft locked up. Plop over on his side he went. My heavier machine (a Ferdco not a Cobra 4, I will replace it with a 4) will sew with 138 as well as the heavier thread. I have to trick it by keeping the bobbin loaded with 207 which is odd but it works. Now with Nichole having the 18 I just use it when I need to sew lighter stuff. Us cowboys say go big or go home! Get the 4 first it will handle all the heavy stuff and maybe some of the lighter. The 18 will handle the lighter but not the heavy stuff. Since not all your sheaths are lined or with inlays you would probably use the 4 more. And talk about whipping out dog collars.

 

[sheathmaker]

Get the 4 first it will handle all the heavy stuff and maybe some of the lighter. The 18 will handle the lighter but not the heavy stuff. Since not all your sheaths are lined or with inlays you would probably use the 4 more. And talk about whipping out dog collars.

Anthony, you'll note I did say I already had a Tippman boss when I bought the flat bed. I agree 100% with Dave. If you are not doing a lot of full lining and inlay work the 4 is the way to go first. You'll get a lot more use out of it right away. Then go for the 17 or the 18

Paul

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thanks very much guys. I really appreciate you digging into your brain for a good reason for one over the other. I have a lot to learn about features and what they mean, but at least I have a jumping off point.

Dave, we always kid that my leathers cost more than my bike. Actually, if you added up all the gear that I ended up keeping, but replaced right away for better stuff (sound familiar?) it would probably be true. I started with $100 gloves and now wear $300 gloves. Same with the rest of it. The helmet was a big cost. Bummer about gear is that it loses 80% of its value the moment you put it on. I'm not a sweaty guy whatsoever, but I guess buying used gear IS kinda icky. Maybe I could cut up the leather and make something else out of it, who knows.