Cold Blue on D2

Status
Not open for further replies.

H0kieengineer

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
737
Can D2 be cold blued? I know that cold blue will not work on stainless, but D2 isn’t stainless, even with 12% Cr.

I have an Ontario RAT 1 that I am basically using as a project knife. The blade needs some help avoiding corrosion and I don’t want to shell out to get it Cerakoted, since that will cost as much as the knife.
 
D2 is very, very nearly stainless and performs like it in most situations. Technically, it doesn't quite fit the strict definition by the free chromium content, and it will show some very light, subtle graying of patina over some time from use & handling. Whether it's (nearly) stainless enough to resist the effect of the bluing is unknown to me. But I'm sure others will chime in on that. Some other methods of etching with strong acids like ferric chloride can darken or nearly blacken D2, based on postings I've seen on BF. But I don't know if cold bluing would have the same effect on D2.

Others have found various means to darken D2, such as etching first with ferric chloride and then cold-bluing. A few links below:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/d2-and-corrosion-resistance.1761223/

A couple of pertinent individual posts, specifically, from within the above-linked thread:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/d2-and-corrosion-resistance.1761223/post-20151947
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/d2-and-corrosion-resistance.1761223/post-20152148


Another thread...

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/ode-to-queen-the-users.1594015/

...and a specific, pertinent post from within that thread:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/ode-to-queen-the-users.1594015/post-18206311
 
Last edited:
Regardless whether D2 will accept cold bluing- cold blue does not prevent rust. Much of the time, it PROMOTES rust.
Even hot bluing provides very little rust protection.
 
Regardless whether D2 will accept cold bluing- cold blue does not prevent rust. Much of the time, it PROMOTES rust.
Even hot bluing provides very little rust protection.
I thought that you blued the steel then coated/soaked in in oil. Iron oxide tends to be porous so the oil soaks into the pours and helps mitigate corrosion.

And it can look good
 
First- cold bluing does not produce iron oxide. It's generally copper sulphate.
Hot bluing is not particularly good, either- look at all the rusted blued guns.
 
If avoiding or minimizing corrosion is the goal, then just keeping the blade as clean as much as possible is likely best. Darkening or coating options will be difficult and/or expensive and might disappoint anyway. Maybe oiling the blade can help as well, which might reduce the tendency for corrosive stuff to cling to the steel. Make sure the blade is clean before oiling it, so the corrosive stuff doesn't get trapped under the oil.

With stainless steels, or those nearly so anyway, just polishing the finish can help minimize or slow corrosion. The deep etching brought by strong acidic 'patina' treatments will do the opposite, creating microscopic pits or voids on the surface, therefore making the surface rougher, which only tends to capture & hold stuff that makes corrosion worse. Many users of bead-blasted stainless blades have discovered their greater tendency to rust, for this reason. A polished finish has fewer voids in the surface and therefore is less likely to hold the dirt & moisture contributing to corrosion.

If the 'project knife' is exposed to acid or other corrosives, then maybe selecting a different knife in a simpler, low-alloy stainless steel is the simplest option for that. D2's high carbon content is great for the wear-resistant carbides in the steel, if they're really needed. But higher carbon content also increases the tendency to rust. if the job or project doesn't necessarily demand such wear-resistance, maybe opting for a more corrosion-resistant steel is the way to go. Something like 420HC or 440A have great corrosion resistance, or 440C, which has better wear-resistance and pretty good corrosion resistance (due to higher chromium content at 16-18%), for example.
 
Last edited:
I thought that you blued the steel then coated/soaked in in oil. Iron oxide tends to be porous so the oil soaks into the pours and helps mitigate corrosion.

And it can look good
Steel does not have "pores". Oil does not soak into steel.
 
I thought that you blued the steel then coated/soaked in in oil. Iron oxide tends to be porous so the oil soaks into the pours and helps mitigate corrosion.

And it can look good

Hot black oxide (or bluing) processes don't produce a porous surface nor a textured surface with high surface area, so there is nothing really there to hold oil. These processes don't appreciably change the existing surface finish. You might be thinking of manganese phosphate, or Parkerizing. That process etches the surface and increases the surface area, which allows it to hold oil better.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top