Cold steel 4034 vs Buck 420hc

N

NewDeadEnds

Joined
Dec 6, 2021
Messages
16
I recently bought a kiridashi because I wanted something that would take an edge easy, and had a straight edge to use for work. The problem was, the edge got a nick all the way up to the bevel. I mostly wanted the tri-ad lock, which I do like. So I'm now going to get the abkt warthog in d2 for work/hard use because I cut a lot of plastic bands and shrink wrap and I hate using the box cutter (we're supposed to use the safety box cutters but the blades break even if they do manage to deploy).
Anyways, to get to the point... I really like the look of the range boss, but is it worth it to have the extra .25" in 4034 or should I sacrifice the .25" and stick with the buck 110 lt? Is 4034 really that much softer or is it possible the kiridashi was just a lemon?
 
Last edited:
The Mastiff said:
Wait, you are going to return a knife you damaged? I've got to be misreading that.
Click to expand...
Yes, to Amazon. Even put in the description what happened and they're still going to accept it. This is actually the 2nd time I've started the return process for it because I debated it for a bit. This is also the 2nd knife I ordered from Amazon that ended up damaged. The 1st was a rancor II and the clip broke, not even sure how that one happened. If it wasn't Amazon, I probably wouldn't.
 
You do know that they will repackage it and sell it to someone else? Just resharpen it and don't put your mistakes off on others. By the way those plastic bands have damaged blades on several hundred dollar knives. It's user created damage not something to blame on others. If you can't resharpen it yourself send it in for sharpening or contact somebody who does that service. I'm pretty sure you just described something to a computer that doesn't care. Show some integrity.
 
buck 420hc - hands down - imho it would be twice as good overall at minimum.... 4034 is just not good (no vanadium is a big negative)
 
The Mastiff said:
You do know that they will repackage it and sell it to someone else? Just resharpen it and don't put your mistakes off on others. By the way those plastic bands have damaged blades on several hundred dollar knives. It's user created damage not something to blame on others. If you can't resharpen it yourself send it in for sharpening or contact somebody who does that service.
Click to expand...
I was hoping they would return to vendor. In the event I keep it, There is a sharpening service nearby that is super cheap, so I'll give them a try. I'm also considering putting it to a grinding wheel myself as a learning experience. I managed the grind it enough to get past the nick, but I'm at the thicker part behind the edge now and a 400 grit stone ain't cutting it. It'll sharpen, but the overall angle is so obtuse now it doesn't hold for very long.
 
I would buy an Izula and call it a day. I keep one at the shop that’s been used to cut nearly everything you can run into in concrete and masonry work. It’s ugly, been abused, but has held its own for over 10 years.
 
dirc said:
buck 420hc - hands down - imho it would be twice as good overall at minimum.... 4034 is just not good (no vanadium is a big negative)
Click to expand...
I should have researched more. I remember reading the make up of 4034, but the lack of vanadium didn't stand out to me at the time. With the factory edge it was even better than the disposable blades but once it was time for a touch up and stropping, it died a painful death. I do use a buck 870 that seems to hold up well, but needs sharpening at least once a week. Which I'm fine with, I carry a pocket stone that gets it back quick, and strop it on denim. But since it's a tanto, it's harder to get the blade where it needs to go. Maybe with the clip point and using more of the cutting edge it'll last longer. The 870 has maybe an inch of real cutting edge. The tip was dull when I got it so I've sharpened it but I haven't gotten down to 25 yet to match the actual cutting edge. It's getting close though.
 
NewDeadEnds said:
I was hoping they would return to vendor. In the event I keep it, There is a sharpening service nearby that is super cheap, so I'll give them a try. I'm also considering putting it to a grinding wheel myself as a learning experience. I managed the grind it enough to get past the nick, but I'm at the thicker part behind the edge now and a 400 grit stone ain't cutting it. It'll sharpen, but the overall angle is so obtuse now it doesn't hold for very long.
Click to expand...
Buck 420hc is heat treated to Paul Bos's setup, which is the best 420hc can be done to maximize the steel.

do not use a grinding wheel or benchgrinder to sharpen. it will be a disaster and ruin the steel. use stones, diamond plates etc and freehand or a guided system if you can't freehand.
 
Lee D said:
I would buy an Izula and call it a day. I keep one at the shop that’s been used to cut nearly everything you can run into in concrete and masonry work. It’s ugly, been abused, but has held its own for over 10 years.
Click to expand...
Is that also your experience with other brands of 1095?
 
I have the range boss in 4034. The factory edge is sharp. I haven't used it or resharpened it, so I can't speak to that. 4034 is a low end stainless steel, so expect to resharpen it on a regular basis, but it should be easy to do. The range boss I have is very easy to open and close, even with the tri ad lock. And it has partial steel liners in the scales.

I also have experience with Buck's 420HC. It's as good as everyone says it is. Between the 110 and the Range Boss, I don't think 0.25" of blade length will make any practical difference. Just buy the knife that you like, you can't lose.
 
jbmonkey said:
Buck 420hc is heat treated to Paul Bos's setup, which is the best 420hc can be done to maximize the steel.

do not use a grinding wheel or benchgrinder to sharpen. it will be a disaster and ruin the steel. use stones, diamond plates etc and freehand or a guided system if you can't freehand.
Click to expand...
I've only ever freehanded. I will get a guided system at some point so that I can ensure edge geometry when I need to repair an edge.
 
dogstar said:
I have the range boss in 4034. The factory edge is sharp. I haven't used it or resharpened it, so I can't speak to that. 4034 is a low end stainless steel, so expect to resharpen it on a regular basis, but it should be easy to do. The range boss I have is very easy to open and close, even with the tri ad lock. And it has partial steel liners in the scales.

I also have experience with Buck's 420HC. It's as good as everyone says it is. Between the 110 and the Range Boss, I don't think 0.25" of blade length will make any practical difference. Just buy the knife that you like, you can't lose.
Click to expand...
The answer is probably both. No matter how bad 4034 is, it can't be worse than the 8cr on my paraframe.
 
NewDeadEnds said:
Is that also your experience with other brands of 1095?
Click to expand...
I guess I can’t answer that, I have/had lots of knives that made use of 1095, but because of ESEE’s warranty they’re the ones I’ve treated like red headed stepchildren.
 
I have a few TOPS in 1095. They hold an edge ok, but I usually use them for chopping tasks where the geometry and toughness is more important (and they work great!). I would say 1095 from them hold an edge slightly worst than buck420HC.
 
I agree with Alberta Ed above suggesting the wire-cutter pliers for cutting plastic banding.

I use (and highly recommend) keeping a serrated edge knife for cutting rougher materials such as cardboard, plastic ties and bands, rope and such.

As they hold up much better than plain/straight edges will.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top