Concern With Boiled Linseed Oil

Joined
Oct 13, 1999
Messages
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I bought some Boiled Linseed Oil yesterday. I plan to treat the handles of my khukuris and their kardas/chakmas. I will let them dry in either my garage or metal shed. My question is this: Will the heat generated by the oil harm my scabbards if I leave the khuks in them? Do generally leave the khukuris out of the sheath when treating them?

Bob
 
It's the heat generated in the oily rags that you want to worry about - follow the safety directions on the can.

I'd let the oil soak in and dry with the knife on a shelf or other secure surface and not in the sheath, because there's no need to leave a non-conforming spot or two on the leather.


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- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
AKTI Member # SA00001
 
As boiled linseed oil dries, it absorbs oxygen and releases heat. The heat is negligible unless the rags are balled up. What happens is that the rags thicken and dry on the outside, making an enclosed container in which the warmth is trapped. The heat builds, the process becomes self feeding. The rags will first smolder, giving off an acrid smoke that smells exactly like an electrical fire. If you then pick up the rags, you should be careful because they can burst into flames the instant they get more oxygen (by the movement of air over the bundle). I would suggest scooping them up with a shovel, or a saucepan and lid.

If you refinish using boiled linseed oil, just hang the rags over something to dry. With normal air drying they do not heat up, do not spontaneously ignite. They simply harden as if varnished. At that point they are safe to discard.

Unboiled linseed oil is also available, but if you use it to finish wood it will not polymerise and will stay gooey.

If you want the boiled linseed oil to penetrate deeply, cut it half and half with mineral spirits on the first coat, then follow with a good rubbing in of straight linseed oil. Rub it on for each coat, the oil wants the heat and pressure to kick over properly and you'll be much happier with the look than if you just brush. Your handle will not ignite, nor will the open container. Just make sure to close the lid each time and you will be fine. Cleanup is with mineral spirits, and treat the cleanup rags the same way as the oily ones.

Hope all this is helpful!

Stephen

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Micah 6:8. Well worth the attempt!
 
I leave the chakma and karda out of the scabbard when I treat them with linseed oil. The reason is that I don't want it smearing off when I insert them into the scabbard. Also, they can become glued into the scabbard.

The handle of the main blade I treat and allow to dry in the scabbard.

Steven covered the flamability hazards nicely.

Will

[This message has been edited by Will Kwan (edited 08-28-2000).]
 
Does tung oil have the same flammability problem? I've heard it & linseed oil praised in the "Wood vs. Horn" thread, but avoid linseed oil for just that reason. Mineral oil isn't flammable but doesn't have as high a rating.

Opinions? Facts? Trivia? All are welcome!

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"He who tries to appease the tiger does so in the hope he will be eaten last."
 
Most 'boiled' linseed oil nowadays isn't really the original boiled...it's just regular linseed treated with dryers. I mostly use tung oil as an 'oil' finish now...Hope's and Formby's are both OK...but the best gunstock finishes I've ever done were with GB Linspeed. This produces a finish that looks half an inch deep, with a glossy eggshell luster that is unbeatable. GB used to be available in any gunshop...like Hoppe's #9...but lately it only seems to show up in Brownell's catalog.

Ken

PS: Handsome kid, Broken Arrow! and such a superior first name!
biggrin.gif


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The sword cannot cut itself, the eye cannot see itself.
 
Bill:

Here are meanings of which I'm aware:
Ken (Kenneth): from the Gaelic 'Coinneach': 'leader'. ((Also...(blush) 'handsome'))
Ken (Japanese): ken = (sword) or k'en = (mountain, stillness) or ken = (son)
I defer to other less linguistically challenged forumites for more subtle interpretations.

Ken

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The sword cannot cut itself, the eye cannot see itself.

[This message has been edited by gunhou (edited 08-29-2000).]
 
unfortunately, without seeing the kanji (characters), this is going to be a guessing game even for someone who speaks Japanese like myself.
much easier to just ask the (rightfully) proud father
biggrin.gif


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Tatsuo
*************
"He who laughs at himself laughs best" :D
 
eda-koppo,

Tung oil probably has the same hazards, it exhibits the same properities as linseed oil. I'm not absolutely sure.

Will
 
Linseed oil is not some hazardous material like nitroglycerin that you should be afraid to have in your house.... Yes, if you were to soak a bunch of rags and ball them up and throw them in a corner and go off and forget about them, it is possible (not likely, but possible) in a few days or weeks you could get spontaneous combustion -- but since you know that, you won't do that, so that won't happen. Just about every other chemical used in paints and wood finishes is more hazardous than linseed oil -- toxic fumes as well as fire hazards.

-Cougar :{)
 
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