- Joined
- Jan 29, 2014
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- 1,638
I did something similar a few years ago. I'm by no means a bladesmith but I came out with a serviceable skinner/utility knife.
Watch your heat treat. Normalize at least once before hardening. If it stays straight when you normalize and you give it a good even heat it will likely stay straight when you quench. Temper at least twice in the oven and consider softening the back of the blade even further with a torch. Just watch your temper colors closely and don't let the heat travel too far from the spine.
I wish I'd put more shape in the handle. The guard and rivets are home made of solid brass.
For this (if i can remember correctly because it sat around for months after it was a forged blank) I did 3 normalize cycles and then heated it a final time and let it cool with the forge. I did all my grinding in that state then heated it to cherry and quenched it in oil. Blade came out of the quench perfectly straight, even with a pretty thin grind. Then a quick pass on the belt sander to see shiny steel again and slowly heated the spine with a torch until I had an even straw color throughout, cooled in oil. Another swipe on the belt sander and another heat to straw and another cool in oil. I could feel flex when I started grinding the edge on my stones and it ground similarly to any other typical basic carbon steel I've sharpened. File skated on it. I'll do some edge retention testing once it's all finished. Yesterday I got all my leather glued on, the pommel fit and peened in place. All that's left now is to shape the handle - I'm getting excited about it now. Sheath will be a Kydex-leather hybrid.