Course buffing compound

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May 11, 2018
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For sharpening my two final steps of sharpening are a ceramic rod and a leather strop with dialux green compound. From experience, the green is not good for much except for knife just needing a tune up. For knifes that I have to sharpen on a bench stone after hard use take 5 hours on a strop to get it hair shaving sharp. I'm using 8cr13mov, 420hc, and case CV. What is a courser buffing compound for quickly getting a hair popping edge.
 
For a fast hair popping edge on a beat up knife I use paper wheels or a belt sander. Freehand? I use atoma or DMT diamond plates. And a pasted balsa strop. I've tried coarse pastes but find that the ones I mentioned work better for me.
 
Ehh, if it's taking you 5 hours to strop you're doing it wrong. That's the shortest part of the sharpening process for most of us. Your knife should be pretty damn sharp before it gets anywhere near the strop. The strop should just be putting on the finishing touch and maybe deburring a bit.
 
Yup. A knife should be sharp before it goes to the strop. If you really do need coarse compound, look into black emery compound. But you still need the knife pretty sharp before you strop it, and stropping should generally be done in as few strokes as you're reasonably able to do to minimize the risk of thickening your edge angle.
 
You likely have a convex edge bevel after 5 hours of stropping. SiC grit is available at Home Depot. Use mineral oil as a carrier with it on paper or leather. If your after a mirror polished edge you'll have to do lots of stropping. The grey rogue is for coarse buffing on a sisal wheel. DM
 
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Green compound would be nearly ideal for the steels mentioned, once the edge is ready for stropping. I don't use compound much anymore for stropping; but if I did, green would be my preference for such steels. It's what I had been using for a long while on 420HC and CV, in particular. Green compound (ordinarily chromium oxide) is a small-grit polishing compound, and shouldn't be expected to completely restore a fully dulled edge. If stropping isn't changing anything in the first couple minutes (at most) of trying it, that's the clue that some stone work is needed beforehand.

Sharpen to a burr on the stones, then use them at a lighter touch to thin & minimize the burr a bit. Once that's done, the green compound could have it to hair-popping within maybe 5 passes per side; could be done in a minute or less. For maintenance stropping between sharpening sessions, the edge should at least be able to cut/slice paper, but might be a little short of shaving sharpness, for the strop to be effective. If it's not at least slicing paper reasonably well, a little bit of finishing-stone touching up should be done first (at least), before trying stropping again.
 
Green compound would be nearly ideal for the steels mentioned, once the edge is ready for stropping. I don't use compound much anymore for stropping; but if I did, green would be my preference for such steels. It's what I had been using for a long while on 420HC and CV, in particular. Green compound (ordinarily chromium oxide) is a small-grit polishing compound, and shouldn't be expected to completely restore a fully dulled edge. If stropping isn't changing anything in the first couple minutes (at most) of trying it, that's the clue that some stone work is needed beforehand.
:thumbsup::thumbsup: DM
 
Something that's worked very well for me:

A very easy route for the steels mentioned (420HC, CV, etc), for touching up on a stone before stropping, is using the Fine side of an oiled India stone (~360-grit, give or take) to make a few light edge-leading passes; enough to form a very light & thin burr again and no more. The stone works real well on these types of steels, removing enough metal quickly enough, that it'll be immediately responsive to stropping of most any kind, with a compound or not. My own stropping preference after using this stone is just doing so on a bare piece of paper laid over the oiled stone. But if a compounded strop is the preference, green on leather will also work well when used with a light, brushing pass or a few (no more than maybe 5 - 10 passes per side). When I was using green compound, I used it on the sueded side of a leather belt. It was just right for getting that hair-popping sharpness with a minimum of work or fuss, AFTER making sure the edge was fully apexed (verified by the burr) on a stone. If preferring an edge with some toothy bite on these steels, don't take it too far with the green compound, as it'll quickly polish away a lot of that toothy bite. If you want a more completely polished, true shaving edge, I'd suggest stropping with the green on something firmer than leather, like a firm & tight-grained wood. That will allow you to spend more time on the polishing without risking rounding off the apex, as would likely happen on a leather strop used the same way for an extended period of time. And the firmer wood substrate will also allow the compound to work faster to a high polish, than if used on something softer.

Regarding the India stone, I've also used a pocket-sized version (4" x 1") of the Fine India for very quick, on-the-go, tuning up of these steels. I also use this with a little bit of mineral oil, as that keeps the stone unclogged & cutting efficiently with a light touch, and keeps it clean with just a wipe-off using a microfiber towel. 420HC, CV and similar steels are a perfect match for a stone of this type. I carry either or both of Buck & Case folders in these steels (420HC, 425M, CV) on a daily basis, so I'm a true believer in how well this works.

For the 8Cr13MoV, I'd start leaning toward using an aluminum oxide polishing compound like white rouge, Flitz, Simichrome or similar compounds. This steel is a little more wear-resistant than the others mentioned; green could still do OK, but aluminum oxide will do it better (quicker, more effortlessly to high polish). Same thumbrules apply, with regard to making sure the edge is ready for stropping, with appropriate stone work first.
 
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Thanks for all the replies. What are the different types of grits and colors of buffing compound and what steels are they good for. Also the 5 hour thing was a figure of speech. If it took me that long to get it sharp I wouldn't sharpen my knife a whole lot
 
The rogue colors I use are grey on a sisal wheel, green on a sewn cotton wheel and pink for final polish on a loose cotton wheel. This is if you
have power equipment. These will cut most steels. The vanadium steels resist polishing and more time is required. What are you polishing toward? DM
 
and pink for final polish on a loose cotton wheel
Is this similar or the same as Herb's Honing Compound ?
I couldn't find an exact link. Maybe he has gone out of business.
It was sold in woodworking stores for stropping carving tools.
In my experience, ten to twenty five years ago when I was stropping it worked the best on high carbon using a long rough side leather up on a long stick of wood. I tried the black, white, red buffing sticks and not nearly as good. The green stuff worked but still not as good as the Herb's stuff.

PS : I placed my order for the Norton India 1" x 4" Fine stone. Thanks again for the recommendation.
 
You're welcome. The India stone will require some break in time. I ordered my pink rogue from Sheffield Knife Makers Supplies. DM
 
For breaking in that 1" x 4" India, you could just rub it a bit (lightly) against a SiC stone, if you have one. I used the coarse side of one of my small ACE stones in SiC to slightly radius one edge of the small India, so it'd work better with some blades having a little bit of recurve in them, and also reduced some of the risk from the stone's rough, crisp factory edge damaging the apex (burring, rolling). That radiused edge also became a little bit finer in finish, in doing so. Still cuts the steel well, but at a finish that emulates a stone with some more use under it's belt.
 
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I would not do that as you'll prematurely wear the diamond plate. I would rebevel 20 knives on it. DM
In a real hurry you can break it in with an old file and some oil.
For breaking in that 1" x 4" India, you could just rub it a bit (lightly) against a SiC stone, if you have one. I used the coarse side of one of my small ACE stones in SiC
Thanks guys ! ! !
I do appreciate the tips.
Yes I'm looking forward to using this stone as soon as possible / immediately to "refine" / touch up box knives and try them on my Case CV blades, Case's stainless (420HC) and Buck's blades.

I do have some old files I picked up literally out of the dirt at a scrap yard to use to make cutting tool blades. They have some old "axle grease" on them. Maybe I can find a clean spot to rub the stone.

PS: I do have a heavily used but flat SiC stone that is about the same size as my new Norton India, that might do it. (it was my Dad's)
 
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Degrease those old files or you'll just transfer grease/oil to the stone. Carb cleaner or bore cleaner will work or just buy a small can of Zippo lighter fluid. Let it run down the file and blot it dry. If you try to rub it off you'll clog the grooves with lint from the rag. Compressed air is the best way to dry stuff.
 
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