CPM-3V or CPM-20CV

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waveone

Joined
Jan 12, 2014
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Curious as to the various thoughts you all might have between these two.

Clearly the 3v is a tougher metal whereas the 20cv is more corrosion resistant. What about edge retention? Re sharpening difficulty?

Any other thoughts on these two metal selections would be appreciated.
 
My very limited knowledge and intended use for the 3.5, went with 20cv for the higher edge durability. On the 5.1, I went with 3v for the higher toughness. Corrosion resistance really isn't a factor for me between the 2 steels.
 
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45cal4life said:
My very limited knowledge and intended use for the 3.5, went with 20cv for the higher edge durability. On the 5.1, I went with 3v for the higher toughness. Corrosion resistance really isn't a factor for me between the 2 steels.
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Thank you for your response. I suppose my only question is about the edge retention of the 20cv vs the 3v? My thought was that they were close to equivalent. Is there more carbon in one verses the other?
 
I found this on the forum;

CPM 3V

Carbon - 0.8%
Chromium - 7.5%
Vanadium - 2.75%
Molybdenum - 1.3%

CPM 20CV

Carbon - 1.90%
Chromium - 20.00%
Vanadium - 4.00%
Molybdenum - 1.00%
Manganese - 0.30%
Silicon - 0.30%
Tungsten - 0.60%
 
20CV has better edge retention. 3V has far better toughness. It depends on what you are using it for. If you plan to really use it hard, I would choose 3V. It is a an excellent steel, but not stainless.
 
jstn said:
20CV has better edge retention. 3V has far better toughness. It depends on what you are using it for. If you plan to really use it hard, I would choose 3V. It is a an excellent steel, but not stainless.
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Right. I bought it for hard all around use, but also for edge retention , or so I thought. Mostly for bush-craft and possibly for game prep. In either case based upon what I have seen the 3v will do well. I must simply carry a stone and a tuff cloth it appears.

Thank you both for your responses. Awesome chart 45cal
 
The 20's going to have less staining, but 3V isn't that bad when it comes to oxidization colorization. Other than that, I can't say I feel a difference in the field between the two steels in terms of edge ret. I just keep a double sided folding dmt and strop along for touch up.
 
I must say, while I don't have any experience with 3V, my experience with 20CV was lackluster. I tested it against VG-10 for high sharpness edge retention, which basically means I cut until it quit making fine cuts. The VG-10 either tied or SLIGHTLY out did it in repeated tests. Given the nature of the brand and name, I'd choose 3V.
 
I too was in the same boat. Like stated above i chose 3v because unless your at sea your buying a survive! Knives tool. Their intended for 3v to be used as a tough tool steel knife.
 
For a smaller blades 3.5"-4.5" ,20CV would be a better choice(finer tasks).Blades 5" and up, 3V would be better(harder tasks).
 
rexromic said:
For a smaller blades 3.5"-4.5" ,20CV would be a better choice(finer tasks).Blades 5" and up, 3V would be better(harder tasks).
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This is the general consensus. That is why we don't make the GSO-10 in CPM-20CV or the Neckers in CPM-3V. That being said, we won't ever set you up for failure. CPM-20CV is very impressive and we do not doubt that it will hold its own just fine in mid to largish sizes. Guy beats the crap out of everything before we even think of listing it for sale. If it has the SURVIVE! logo on it you can have the confidence that it will handle any knife task. The GSO-3.5 up to GSO-7/7 are made in CPM-20CV as well as CPM-3V so people can decide what is most important depending on their uses. I mostly use my knives in the kitchen to cut onions and I'm horrible at oiling them down regularly so CPM-20CV is me, all day.
 
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