CPM3V VS Z-WEAR lets hear some other users opinion

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On hour 11 on a 16 hour day on the forth so I think I can justify starting a post.
I have used and made a couple knives out of both materials and have my opinions but would like to hear from others that have used, made or own both steels.
I use these steels for WORK!! so not concerned about paper testing.
 
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Z-wear/Cru-wear/3V are very close in composition.

I think that all things being equal in HT, the biggest difference that I have noticed between 3V vs the "Wear" steels is that they have slightly better edge retention.

But again, there are different methods for HT that can make one "better" than the other....
 
Z-wear/Cru-wear/3V are very close in composition.

I think that all things being equal in HT, the biggest difference that I have noticed between 3V vs the "Wear" steels is that they have slightly better edge retention.

But again, there are different methods for HT that can make one "better" than the other....

I understand the steels. I literally have multiple knives in both. I am curious from people who have directly used both Z-Wear and 3V.
 
I have a Miller Brothers blade in Z Wear, and a few productions in 3V. I really like both but prefer the Miller Brothers Z Wear; however, that could be the superior heat treat from a custom/semi-custom maker shining through. There is also Z-Tuff I believe, which is tougher with a bit less edge retention, and is more geared toward larger blades.
 
I have a Miller Brothers blade in Z Wear, and a few productions in 3V. I really like both but prefer the Miller Brothers Z Wear; however, that could be the superior heat treat from a custom/semi-custom maker shining through. There is also Z-Tuff I believe, which is tougher with a bit less edge retention, and is more geared toward larger blades.
Ya Which production 3V blades? I got 6lbs of ztuff at home cut into one shape. :D
I figured someone with Millers would chim in. Do you know the rockwell on it?
I am really curious to hear about direct comparison between 3V and Zwear.
 
I have a custom in z-wear, and a custom in cpm 3v, both rc around 61. Cutting rope, and card board, they both hold an edge very similar. I have used my z-wear on elk and pigs, and I'm very impressed with how well it holds an edge. The heat treat was done by peters, avoiding the secondary hardening bump. I did get a little chip chopping into a deer antler, but this knife is relatively thin, I think around 20 thousandths, and about 18 degree bevel. The 3v was done by a maker here, and I haven't tested it on an animal yet. Both are some of my favorite steels by far
 
Zwear for normal knifes, and ztuff for bigger choppers (heavy impact uses) are now my new fav. steels.

Zwear, gets a really good edge, (not so easy tho), and keeps it really very well (much like 3v). From my experience is a tiny bit tougher (but that can also depends on the makers)

Off topic, z-tuff feels much like old busse (I had few blades) (love it).
 
Ya Which production 3V blades? I got 6lbs of ztuff at home cut into one shape. :D
I figured someone with Millers would chim in. Do you know the rockwell on it?
I am really curious to hear about direct comparison between 3V and Zwear.

I have a Cold Steel Master hunter in 3V, as well as a Spyderco Tuff. The Miller brothers is pretty thick so that definitely comes into play, but I beat on that blade all the time and it is tough as nails and takes forever to dull. My 3V blades are great too but seem to get dull more quickly. I am not sure on the Rockwell hardness, but I suspect the Miller Brothers has a superior heat treat to the production blades, but that is just a guess. That is a lot of ZTuff though, and I would love to get my hands on a blade in that steel.
 
In my experience, Zwear and its like steels hold a better edge. 3V is easier to sharpen. I can get both very sharp, but 3V gets screaming sharp! Love those two steels!! Some of the best EDC steels around!
 
I have a custom in z-wear, and a custom in cpm 3v, both rc around 61. Cutting rope, and card board, they both hold an edge very similar. I have used my z-wear on elk and pigs, and I'm very impressed with how well it holds an edge. The heat treat was done by peters, avoiding the secondary hardening bump. I did get a little chip chopping into a deer antler, but this knife is relatively thin, I think around 20 thousandths, and about 18 degree bevel. The 3v was done by a maker here, and I haven't tested it on an animal yet. Both are some of my favorite steels by far

I plan on having Peter's do the same type of HT on the Ztuff chopper I am making. I noticed the Zwear I have with the more standard HT is kinda of rust prone. I was hoping to get something more like the Newer 3V heat treats that are showing up and I had done. Is that zwear knife fairly stain resistant?

In my experience, Zwear and its like steels hold a better edge. 3V is easier to sharpen. I can get both very sharp, but 3V gets screaming sharp! Love those two steels!! Some of the best EDC steels around!

This was kinda of the same basic feeling I got.
 
I plan on having Peter's do the same type of HT on the Ztuff chopper I am making. I noticed the Zwear I have with the more standard HT is kinda of rust prone. I was hoping to get something more like the Newer 3V heat treats that are showing up and I had done. Is that zwear knife fairly stain resistant?

So far it's been, no rust. I tried forcing a patina with vinegar and it didn't take. So I used some gun blue, and got a little staining. Impressed with it so far
 
I plan on having Peter's do the same type of HT on the Ztuff chopper I am making. I noticed the Zwear I have with the more standard HT is kinda of rust prone. I was hoping to get something more like the Newer 3V heat treats that are showing up and I had done. Is that zwear knife fairly stain resistant?



This was kinda of the same basic feeling I got.
Do you know what hardness the Z-Wear was at? I had one knife in Z-Wear that i made and it seemed more rust resiatant than 3V in a regular HT (non Delta).
The hardness i went to for Z-Wear was 61-62HRC from peters HT. Turned out awesome. Tried doing a forced patina but didnt do much of anything. I just ordered a big plate to make some more of my conquests and maybe a one off crazy kitchen knife.....(outdoor oriented)
I really love both steels. For toughness i go 3V all day. For edge holding i will go Z-Wear (only used it once but i liked it, more testing will come.)
 
On hour 11 on a 16 hour day on the forth so I think I can justify starting a post.
I have used and made a couple knives out of both materials and have my opinions but would like to hear from others that have used, made or own both steels.
I use these steels for WORK!! so not concerned about paper testing.

I love Z-Wear and have a Miller Bros M-33 and it’s a beast. If you go on YouTube and watch them hammer the z-wear knives through 1/4” structural steel with no damage to the blade apart from a tiny amount of edge roll it really stunning. I’ve yet to see a 3V knife do this but as mentioned on here by others about the build of miller bros knives and my M-33 it’s 7.56 mm spine and 1.53 mm edge and probably has a lot to do with it. It cost me an arm and leg to buy one M-33 and have it shipped to England but it’s worth it because if the world was ending or society broke down this is the knife I’d choose and take. I’ve got 6 bark river knives in 3V and one benchmade puukko in the 3V and those have nothing on this things toughness. I use my bark river knives for anything including bushcraft to butchering and I know that these knives are tough but my M-33 leaves those wanting. I also own a couple of folders in 3V and prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. I think if your going for toughness then Z-Wear is the steel I’d want but if your wanting both wear and toughness then 3V is the steel. I’ve not checked the wear resistance between them due to the slab sized piece of z-wear as opposed to my bark river knives as it would not be on a equal footing and there for very inaccurate and unreliable but from what I’ve seen and heard z-wear is better over all and I’d choose this every time over 3V given half a chance.
 
Zwear is stronger and more wear resistant without much loss in toughness to 3v.

Zwear/CPM Cruwear give you more options with what feature you want to acentuate with HT and Geometry. 3v is more limited to the toughness spectrum.
 
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Zwear really shines at higher hardness 62-64 HRC, assuming good heat treat to get there, this is where it beats 3v. Corrosion resistance is pretty good when heat treated harder. I've used a few custom kitchen knives in Zwear and corrosion resistance is very good in kitchen use, doesn't patina from onions, tomatoes, garlic. At least not in a short time period, probably will eventually. Leaving lemon juice on the blade patinas it eventually so not stainless level, but pretty resistant. Very good edge stability at high hardness.
 
I dont see much of a toughness or edge holding difference between cru wear and s35vn.

Sharpening ease goes to cru wear for me. By a hair.

That's my only experience.
 
Ive had a year with each as an edc. I honestly couldn't tell the difference in performance and would give the ease of sharpening award to 3V.

There was a time where I would buy nothing but 3V and Z-wear because of its "toughness" but after realizing what "toughness" WAS it was no longer a priority anymore.
I now consider Z-wear and 3V cousins of CPM-S7. They are impact tool steels and in my opinion have no benefit on a folding knife and better suited for "impact" style tools like axes, tomahawks and large survival knives.
 
I have productions on both Cruwear and 3V...better edge retention with Cru/Z wear, also better corrosion resistance. 3V sharpens very easily (the other isn’t bad either) but loses a razor edge fast. It does however tend to keep a working edge pretty well. Cruwear has a more linear progressive dulling, it can handle most common materials but I have killed an edge on heavy cardboard (which is best left to the SxxV family).

Also, my Cruwear is a Delica so it’s thinly ground and I believe close to 62-63HRc, ideal 3V is about 60.

For the best of both worlds (toughness and edge retention), you really want 4V/Vanadis 4 Extra.
 
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