CRKT Knife "Carson M16-13Z" mini-review with pics and movie.

bruner

bruner

Joined
Dec 23, 2005
Messages
29
Hi all,

I'm relatively new to bladeforums, but I have been lurking for some time. Only tonight did I become a basic member. At $10 a year, it was an easy decision.

I originaly posted this review on www.candlepowerforums.com as many of those folks also have an interest in knives. I've done two other reviews there that I will also post here. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to try and answer them.

So, here is my original review posted on candlepowerforums...

I don't sell these... I just thought it would be fun to do a review. Click on any of the thumbnail images to see the full size picture. Movie link is towards the bottom of the post.

I picked this one up from my local Walmart for about $30.



CRKT stands for Columbia River Knife & Tool. The Carson M16-13Z has Zytel scales which make for a light, but strong body. There are more expensive versions of this knife that have either aluminum or titanium scales. They also have M16 models called "Fire Department", "Law Enforcement" and "Military" which cater to people in those lines of work. They even have a smaller version called the EDC (every day carry).

When closed, the knife is 4-5/8" long. It has a stainless steel pocket clip, which rides nice and high so that the knife is less visible in your pocket.

Closed Front View:


Closed Back View:


When open, the entire knife is 8-1/8" long. The sharp part of the blade is 3-1/4" long. The thickness of the body is 1/2" (not including the clip). Opening this knife is very cool. There is no spring assist in this knife. You simply push down hard on the back part of the handle (where the back of the blade sticks out) and the blade swings out and locks into place. It's very smooth. Check out the movie link towards the bottom of this post.

Front Open View:


I've been tempted to put some glow-epoxy in the bottom detent of the scales on both sides. That way if it falls in the dark, at least one glowing surface would but visible. I'm tempted, but not sure I want to change the way it looks at this time.

Another nice feature is that there is a lock mechanism for locking the blade in it's open position. It prevents the locking liner from being pushed in accidentally. These pictures aren't as clear as I would have liked them to be, but until I get a camera with better macro, they will have to do. It's much more clearly demonstrated in the movie.

Unlocked:


Locked:


Click HERE to see the short movie I made demonstrating how the knife works.

Any questions, I'll try to answer them.

Thanks for looking,
Dan
 
A liner lock.

The LAWKS system slides some metal between the liner and scale to prevent the lock from being opened.
 
I have seen a post on a knife with the LAWKS failing the spine whack test. Don't know how hard it was whacked, but part of the blade was wedge within the lock if I remember right. I used to have a M16-13SF and never had any problems with it, but I never did a spine whack test on it either.
 
bruner said:
You simply push down hard on the back part of the handle (where the back of the blade sticks out) and the blade swings out and locks into place. It's very smooth.
Click to expand...

The two I have are fairly stiff and require 3-4 lbs applied to the flippers, it is also fairly awkward compared to studs or holes for opening, you can however just press it off of something to open the knife if you are wearing heavy gloves.

Nice work.

-Cliff
 
I think I'd have to disagree...I think flippers are probably the best way to open a knife, and among flipper knives (and I've used a ton) my M16 reigns. I can actually do an "automatic" where I hold the knife closed (point down), hit the flipper and, with no wrist flick (or wrist motion at all) get the blade out and locked. Takes some practice though.

I'm nonetheless inclined to say that a well designed knife doesn't need thumbstuds, spyderholes or flippers. Everything is doable with the wrist.
 
The Sebenza cannot be *practically* flicked open because it has a very tough detent. Slipjoints cannot be flicked open.

Sorry to play Devil's advocate, but I strongly disagree with your statement. I dislike "loose" knives and do not like flicking or flippers.
 
I'm with Hair. With laws how they are these days I'd much rather have a nice tight knife that I have to open with my thumb. I also like how the Buck 110/112's cannot be flicked open.
 
Nice little review , I bought one just to see for myself why so many people dislike the M16. I have the M16-13-AUS-8 steel. Here is my beef with this knife, if you snap the blade open or cut hard with it, the liner lock tends to jamb towards the opposite side of the LAWKS. This causes the liner lock to bind, making it very difficult to release with your thumb, as you would normally do to close one handed. Using it on the job today, I became disgusted with this flaw so I took it apart tonight and polished the mating surfaces. It passes the snap open test as well as the power cut test now. For me the M16 is a nice beater work knife. My last work beater, a Spyderco Endura, survived 10 years. I don't see the M16 lasting half as long.
 
Polishing the mating surfaces also means the lock will not engage as reliably, so it's a personal matter. I feel confident enough with this knife not to always engage the LAWKS. I just wish the blade was AUS 8.
 
All,

Thanks for the kind comments.

deathshead,

I have also seen that review where the LAWKS system failed. I think it was a pretty severe whack.

Based on that review, I would have to say the LAWKS system is not 100% reliable, but it's reliable enough for most situations under normal use. I admire the LAWKS system mechanicaly. I think it's an interesting feature of thier knives.

Others,

I like the way it can be flicked open too. Again, for me it's a mechanical interest. Mine opens very smoothly, but I wouldn't call it loose by any means. I don't worry about it coming open in my pocket as it requires a fair bit of force to get it past the "cam" (am I using the correct term here?). Once past that, it opens smoothly.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Cliff Stamp said:
The two I have are fairly stiff and require 3-4 lbs applied to the flippers, it is also fairly awkward compared to studs or holes for opening, you can however just press it off of something to open the knife if you are wearing heavy gloves.

Nice work.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

My 13Z comes out like my Leek does. Easy and fast.
Some people also complain that they have to consciously engage the LAWKS which they might forget.
Well the way I open my M16, LAWkS is engaged in the same motion, and this is subconscious - experiment and find a way you like.
 
Confederate said:
Polishing the mating surfaces also means the lock will not engage as reliably, so it's a personal matter. I feel confident enough with this knife not to always engage the LAWKS. I just wish the blade was AUS 8.
Click to expand...
I have beat this knife a little since the polishing treatment, including the infamous spine whack....no problems. I do not see how polishing would make the lockup any less reliable than leaving it alone would have. If that were the case, lubricating the surfaces with your favorite oil would have the same slippery result. Since the liner lock is pre-loaded to move away from the release position, that is the direction it will follow. I can see how it could possibly accidentally release the blade if you managed to twist during a grip, but that is what LAWKS is for.
 
Well, I have more experience polishing gun parts where polishing reduces the load before two parts will begin to move. If your knife is working well for you, then you can't beat that. One of my big questions regarding this knife is that some people act as though AUS 6M is some hideously soft metal that goes dull just by looking cross-eyed at it. I haven't used mine enough to tell one way or the other; however, I can get my blade very sharp initially.

Now that CRKT and Gerber are using even cheaper steels (AUS 4, 420J2, 425), this will only make matters worse. The worst problem with this knife now is: how does one tell if they've got an AUS 6M or an AUS 4 (which is the current steel being used)?

=Confed
 
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