Crosscut Saw Thread

phantomknives said:
i know all the right ways. i'v tried to use that sawset on smaller saws but it doesnt work for jack. it doesnt matter now. all the teeth are set. it may be for a finer toothed saw but definitely not a carpentry saw., the thing is massive.

all but that last tooth are a result of prior damage. i ran the saw over a soft piece of wood, basically balsa at that point and i found the tip of the tooth in the cut. the other one, i tapped it with my file and it fell right off. i admit this last one was my fault but there is definitely an issue with the saw's temper
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I am not going to pretend to know what happened to your teeth. But I do wonder if the tooth remains in contact with the back of that set during operation? I have seen that some folks have cut more relief there. Not sure if it is just to get the tooth further into the set or to prevent contact?
 
the tooth being set doesnt contact but there's a plate that acts like a guard that you rest against the other teeth. i'll see about making a gif to show how it works if you'd like
 
phantomknives said:
the tooth being set doesnt contact but there's a plate that acts like a guard that you rest against the other teeth. i'll see about making a gif to show how it works if you'd like
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I was curious more than anything. But that answers my question. Learning to file and have not used that style of set.
I suspect trail time will know whats up with breaking teeth.
 
phantomknives said:
. . . there's something wrong with this saw. . .
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No answer again, but if you don't know the history of your saw those teeth could have been weakened by being bent in two directions. A couple of observations from the net:

"... don't try to bend a tooth the other way once it has already been set the opposite way. Doing so usually results in breaking the saw teeth that you try this on."
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

"To avoid tooth breakage, never bend a tooth to the right that was previously bent to the left, and vice versa."
https://www.fine-tools.com/G10001.html

Just a thought.


Bob
 
rjdankert said:
No answer again, but if you don't know the history of your saw those teeth could have been weakened by being bent in two directions. A couple of observations from the net:

"... don't try to bend a tooth the other way once it has already been set the opposite way. Doing so usually results in breaking the saw teeth that you try this on."
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

"To avoid tooth breakage, never bend a tooth to the right that was previously bent to the left, and vice versa."
https://www.fine-tools.com/G10001.html

Just a thought.


Bob
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Rust doesn't help.
 
Was there an etch on the blade? Saw looks something like the Simonds 325, which has a hard temper. Is it crescent ground? The low break point on the tooth is more likely related to the pliers-type grip setter you used. Stress fractures usually show up near the tip. When in doubt, a little de-tempering with propane will reduce the chance of breakage.
 
alright, noted.

no, no etch, i went to a boy scout camp for an event and they had 3 of these saws in 5.5 foot lengths that got put in a shed and forgotten, even they didnt have any names etched and they were nearly brand new. they did have the standard markings, all i know is they're made in Philadelphia.

i havent had a chance to check the grind yet but thpse other saws cut very nice, we bucked some 3 foot poplar and it didnt bind once
 
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disston fingerhole ripsaw. the camera doesnt show it well but it has a faint etch
 
I have a Disston D8 with the thumbhole.

"The most obvious feature of some D-8's is the extra hole in the handle. Offered on 26" and longer ripsaws from the about 1880 until about 1950, the Dual-Grip or thumbhole-handled saw was designed for those laborious rip cuts. The handle is gripped normally with the lead hand and the thumb of the second hand is put through the thumbhole. The fingers of the hand are then wrapped across the top of the saw handle.

The thumbhole handle was also offered on 28" and 30" crosscut saws for a time, although its usefulness on a crosscut is questionable. When crosscutting wood with the saw, your other hand normally would hold the board. The hole for your lead hand is smaller than normal saws, making it necessary to hold the saw with three fingers in the hand hole. This was considered the proper method to grip a handsaw at the time. If you are left handed, the handle was not designed with you in mind, as it is not symmetrical. That said, it's an interesting design, and every collector seems to have one. Similar handles were put on D-100 and No. 120 "Acme" saws as well."
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/d8page.html


Bob
 
the few factory handles i have are ambi, i also have a few that are right-handed. on one i have, the ovular shape of the handle is just a little off to the side.

i guess only high-dollar handles weren't ambi
 
I saw maybe 2 decent cross cut saws in a second hand store this weekend in Bergen Count NJ for maybe $20 if anyone might be interested in checking them out let me know I'll send you the name of the shop.
 
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disston large miter saw. i bought it like this. i didnt need to clean it up. only needed some sharpening. cuts really well. about 20 seconds of light cutting to take out a true-mill 2x2
 
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