i was a bit divided at the time, yeah you were pretty close with your guesstimateA saw!?! Just one of all those goodies!!! What sort of Bladeforumite would I be if I didn't go for the whole collection! One piece at a time of course. I'm no jb....yet.
Oh yeah, about the medallion, I just guessed without looking it up. Not bad, eh?
The trouble with these short saws is that they require a lot of downward force to cut. A supplemental handle can help you push down on the tip of the saw. But I think these saws are good candidates for a little added weight on the tip.
Here's what I was talking about when posted earlier about making a crosscut saw weight. It starts with an old aluminum film canister with a 1/2"-13 coupling nut mounted in it. A jam nut holds it together firmly. The lower bolt will be cut off and kerfed to slip onto the saw. The upper bolt is just to fill the coupling nut threads to protect them while casting the lead.
Chunks of steelhead fishing lead are melted and cast into the film canister.
After casting.
The parts. The lead-filled film canister and its lid, the cut-off half inch bolt, a 20D nail cut off and a couple 1/2" washers.
Some saws have supplementary handle holes lower than others. I made sure my weight would fit the deeper hole of my Disston 514 54" one man saw.
Here it is wrapped with friction tape and installed on the 54" Disston. Assembled and taped it came out to 374 grams. I think it will make a dramatic difference in how well the saw cuts. And it can quickly be removed when cutting larger logs.
What does a little guy like this excel at? Taking small limbs, pruning trees up to man height, smaller bucking?
I wish the pictures were still active in your previous post on making an end/counter weight, Square_peg.
A quick check of some vintage handles I have show a disregard for grain orientation. But if I had a choice I would go through the plain grain rather than the edge. Just seems right.Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but, I have a possibly dumb question about handles. I’m trying to turn a set of new handles for a saw I picked up, I was just wondering if there was a right or wrong way to orient the grain when drilling the hole for the bolt, or does it not really matter? Thanks
Line the grain up with the blade for consistency, though it won't really matter. I've never had a handle break either wayThanks Garry. I tried researching and also looking at pictures of handles but I couldn’t really find a definitive answer either. So just to be clear, when I’m looking down at the top of the saw, the grain should be in line with the blade, or at right angles? I think you mean at right angles, or in other words the opposite of the way you would handle an axe? I was thinking of doing it at 45 degrees also.
Thanks
I was wondering about that, but then I thought the curved handle hardware would also compress the wood from the sides a bit too preventing a split. Maybe I will do perpendicular or a 45. I appreciate the responses guys, and I will post a pic when they are done.The handle is less likely to split if you drill the hole perpendicular to the grain as Garry3 suggested.
Best way is electrolysis, but that's a whole level beyond a single saw. For a single blade that not too pitted, I'd just use a sanding block and WD-40. Start with 100g and finish with 220g, and sand in-line with the length of the saw. Go carefully around the tips of the teeth. Wear rubber gloves and sop up the slurry with paper towels as you go. The initial color of the rusty oil will be reddish, but as you work your way down to the steel it will get darker to almost black.What’s the best way to clean up a rusty blade?
I have those things on hand and I can definitely use that method.Best way is electrolysis, but that's a whole level beyond a single saw. For a single blade that not too pitted, I'd just use a sanding block and WD-40. Start with 100g and finish with 220g, and sand in-line with the length of the saw. Go carefully around the tips of the teeth. Wear rubber gloves and sop up the slurry with paper towels as you go. The initial color of the rusty oil will be reddish, but as you work your way down to the steel it will get darker to almost black.
I’m pretty sure they are maple, maybe not the best choice, but I have limited options since I wanted to start with round stock. A lot of questions about something silly I know, but I just wanted to see if there was a right or wrong way before I did it. ThanksIf you use good wood like hickory or ash it probably won't matter how you drill it.
Never used vinegar on a saw. If you wet (oil) sand in line with the blade you shouldn't get much in the way of scratch marks. Just don't go orbital with it.I have those things on hand and I can definitely use that method.
I was also thinking of maybe trying a scouring pad pad soaked in vinegar. My thought being that it would lift the rust without leaving scratch marks? Maybe it’s a bad idea. Thanks