Crosscut Saw Thread

[ithinkverydeeply]

I got curious and thought I would measure this NOS saw and fix the split blade guard. It was said the the guard has never been removed and I see now that the wire that holds it on is soldered not twisted. I will leave it.

That’s what’s up! Cool how it isn’t as oxidized where the guard was.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

Now that’s an athletic stance!

 

[Trailsawyer]

Now that’s an athletic stance!

Old retired guys get pretty serious when it comes to "bragging rights"! (and the young guys too...)
Small logs were all that was available at this BCHW Rendezvous a couple years ago, but if I remember
correctly, top cut times were about 8 seconds! These guys don't waste any time when working out on the
trails either..... lots of fun!

 

[Malus]

Just a little before and after cleaning this Simonds #325 I posted a while back. I used wd-40 and an axe puck. A little work with the coarse side got the worst of the rust off followed by a lot of elbow grease with the fine side. Took about the same amount of time to clean the plate as it did to carefully remove the rust from the teeth and rakers without rounding anything off. The hickory handles have dried up a point where they are quite loose in the collar. I'd rather not have to make new ones so I might just try to shim them somehow so they're snug. I bet they'll drink up some linseed oil too.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

I Wonder if Swel-Lock would work on the handles?

 

[Jim Thode]

I Wonder if Swel-Lock would work on the handles?

I use straight auto antifreeze to swell axe handles and such. It will tighten very loose handles and will not dry out.

 

[Square_peg]

I Wonder if Swel-Lock would work on the handles?

Swel-Lock is made with dipropylene glycol which is safe and non-toxic. Small amounts of antifreeze made with ethylene glycol probably won't hurt you. But it might still be something you want to avoid.

https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/phs/phs.asp?id=84&tid=21

 

[Agent_H]

(For conversation)
Criterion and Excelsior saw blocks/sets

Numbers 2 and 4 came from ithinkverydeeply .

Criterion


Criterion

1. Excelsior No.5 Setting Block (1895)

2. 3., Criterion Saw Set (1914)

4. Atkins No.3 Circular Saw Set (1948)

*Not pictured but for reference:
Criterion Band Saw Set

Criterion No.2 Hand, wood, and small saws

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

4. Atkins No.3 Circular Saw Set (1948)

Well hey this is topical. I just got a NOS #3 today!

No instructions came in this box either.

 

[Agent_H]

Well hey this is topical. I just got a NOS #3 today!

No instructions came in this box either.

They’re interesting pieces of gear. NOS is always great!

 

[phantomknives]

hey can someone post the full page of this?
Brian Rust sent me one a few months ago and i havent had much success with it, tips on how to care for one would be great as well.
here's a pic.

 

[Agent_H]

hey can someone post the full page of this?
Brian Rust sent me one a few months ago and i havent had much success with it, tips on how to care for one would be great as well.
here's a pic.

Atkins catalog (1895)
https://archive.org/details/AtkinsSawsAndSawTools1895

 

[Fmont]

Any insight as to why Atkins suggests filing after setting? Tips on harder steel more apt to chip?

 

[trailtime]

Any insight as to why Atkins suggests filing after setting? Tips on harder steel more apt to chip?

I always finish my final point up after setting. Doing so allows me to back hone an exact set for every tooth.

 

[Jim Thode]

Any insight as to why Atkins suggests filing after setting? Tips on harder steel more apt to chip?

I've seen vintage instructions both ways, some suggest setting after filing cutters and some the other way around. Anderson suggest setting then filing. It makes more sense to me and I sharpen cutters as the very last step. As Trailtime said you can back hone if needed and why should you have razor sharp cutters when setting the teeth if you do not need to?

For setting harder teeth make sure that the point of the anvil is nearly inline with the point of the tooth bevel where the hammer strikes the tooth. Like this, no matter if using a hammer set or pliers type set:

This is not good:

For very hard teeth I have had good luck (never broke at tooth) setting the whole tooth on an anvil. Like this:

As a very last resort you can temper (soften) the cutters but that kind of defeats the idea of having a hard tooth that will hold a good cutting edge.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

I “rehung” a lubricant bottle today but I couldn’t find where @Yankee Josh posted his last project bottle so I figured it probably belongs here anyway.

The bottle is a very old Rum bottle with lots of cool air bubbles. The hand carved stopper with a plug in it is also vintage but I had to carve and sand it a little to fit the bottle so I touched up the stain around the stopper where I worked then oiled and waxed it. The hook is a blacksmith made NOS vintage item and even the hemp is stuff that I got like 25 years ago. I stained and waxed it before whiplashing the hook to the bottle.

Next to an antique.

Cheers!

 

[trailtime]

I “rehung” a lubricant bottle today but I couldn’t find where @Yankee Josh posted his last project bottle so I figured it probably belongs here anyway.......

One more pic, in use, hooked to the tree you're sawing.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

One more pic, in use, hooked to the tree you're sawing.

I’d rather preserve it than ruin it but I suspect you know that.

 

[Jim Thode]

I “rehung” a lubricant bottle today but I couldn’t find where @Yankee Josh posted his last project bottle so I figured it probably belongs here anyway.

Nice! I've never seen one with a hole drilled through the stopper with a plug. All I've seen just have a little slot cut in the side of the stopper with no way to plug it.

 

[ithinkverydeeply]

Nice! I've never seen one with a hole drilled through the stopper with a plug. All I've seen just have a little slot cut in the side of the stopper with no way to plug it.

Interesting, that old one I have there also has a hole drilled through the stopper. Of course, no plug remaining.