CTS-BD1N steel ?

Nowhere near S30V or S90V. My impression is that it is similar to 440C. I haven't used it myself, but the composition is in the same class as 440C. The only real difference is the addition of nitrogen. The datasheet says it can be run to Rc 60-63, so it is probably a little better than 440C. It does not have the carbide volume to be what is often called a super steel, but it probably has good edge stability. So not the best for abrasive materials (nothing like S90V), but the edge stability could give it decent performance. Now you have my curiosity. I'd like to hear real world reports to see how it actually behaves in use.
 
lambertiana said:
Nowhere near S30V or S90V. My impression is that it is similar to 440C. I haven't used it myself, but the composition is in the same class as 440C. The only real difference is the addition of nitrogen. The datasheet says it can be run to Rc 60-63, so it is probably a little better than 440C. It does not have the carbide volume to be what is often called a super steel, but it probably has good edge stability. So not the best for abrasive materials (nothing like S90V), but the edge stability could give it decent performance. Now you have my curiosity. I'd like to hear real world reports to see how it actually behaves in use.
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There are some pretty nice looking kitchen knives

https://www.knivesshipfree.com/kitchen-knives-stratus-culinary-dragon/

That use this steel.

I didn't believe that its near S30V or S90V just looking at the price.. But it might be a good steel for that price.
 
Spyderco uses this steel in their Manix LW. It is a mid range steel made by Carpenter. I would put it in the same class as 14c28n or 440c but it is a far cry from s30v as far as edge retention goes. However, judging from reviews I have read, some folks put it up there with VG10 steel.
 
It is a nitrogen version of CTS-BD1, which is similar to G-2 steel. It is VERY different than S90v and S30V!! It would be more like 14C28N, which if heat treated right can be an amazing steel! It can also be not so great if done poorly. I have a knife in 14C28N that holds a great edge!
 
I have a manix lightweight in CTS bd1. I always compare it to AUS 8 in my head. I can't tell the difference when sharpening. Takes a fine edge, but I think of it as a little under the 14c28n but never tested objectively.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
I think the nitrogen is there to reduce brittleness which would be a problem with higher carbon.
 
Lord_Balkan said:
What are your thoughts on it?
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I don't have any complaints. Here is my experience with kitchen knives:

Never used much over a paring knife growing up. When I got married my wife has a set of Cutco. Once I started using them I got tired of the edge retention and bought a Shun Classic. I really enjoyed that knife but didn't care for the layered steel so I started looking for a homogeneous steel. Which landed me on the Dragon series but KSF was having a sale on the Ken Onion knives. I also bought an 8 inch "Cascade" by Ken Onion that has 420HC. The CTSBD1N steels is superior than both of the 420HC and I would also choose it over any other German steel with a low heat treat.

I'm finding that I like Japanese style kitchen cutlery but prefer homogeneous steel. The Dragon series is trying to combine the best of German and Japanese.
 
If you're looking for really good edge retention Knivesshipfree's Northwood's line has some knives in CTSXHP. This is similar to D2 from what I've read.
 
is CTS-BD1 the same as CTS-BD1N ?
if so do a search for CTS-BD1 and you will find lots of threads.
 
your're not going to get a straight answer because its just not that simple.

CTS-BD1 is not on par with 440c in terms of raw cutting but can sharpen better and can be tougher.

The Idea behind BD1N as read from the data sheet was to increase the working hardness to the low 60's which sounds awesome.

I'd put it in the realm of 14c28n or aebl maybe better. but it won't out cut 440c, s30v etc but might have more edge stability and toughness.
too many variables though.

I don't think people realize it takes a huge investment to find any steels full potential. Some alloys don't get used because you can achieve the same result with other alloys that are cheaper and more available.
 
I have it in a kitchen knife. A well heat treated 440C would be a good approximation. It is easy to sharpen, cuts like a knife in warm butter when freshly sharpened, but then settles in to a good working edge.
 
Jhansenak47 said:
I have it in a kitchen knife. A well heat treated 440C would be a good approximation. It is easy to sharpen, cuts like a knife in warm butter when freshly sharpened, but then settles in to a good working edge.
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It sounds like I can't really go wrong with those kitchen knives then.
 
This is splitting hairs....in actual use, I've found it to be in the same range as 440C, 14C, Aus-8. With the latter 2 and BD1 being easier to sharpen than 440C, not that 440C is very hard to sharpen. Approximate usage and range of usage is on par for regular cutting tasks from cutting wire to shaving hair off your arm and paper. I only mischievously add in the latter 2 because that's what blade forum folks quite often do as a measure of how sharp they just got their knife before putting it back into the drawer. I have had and have Spyderco's version of it in a UKPK and Manix LW and I really enjoy the steel would be happy to see it in kitchen.
 
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