Cutting Boards?

I just recently bought a couple slabs of Richlite to use for a new cutting board and try for handle material.
My immediate impression from only a very few uses is that it seems soft.
My S110V Chef knife will not slide on it, the carbides tend to bite and hold onto the board.
I have not noticed the issue with my XHP, S30V, of Silver Steel knives yet.

The durability seem good so far, I do not see any scratches on the surface yet.

I bought these to use as handle material first so I'm anxious to see how it works as a cutting board.
 
I read this review, seem interesting though it is supposedly not recyclable.

My wife and I justt installed 1 1/2" black Richlite counters in our home and they're great. Here's an informal review:

It is difficult, but they do scratch. However, maintenance is a breeze. Any fine grit sandpaper or scotchbrite pad removes scratches, you simply re-oil with a food safe oil and they're back to new. What I most love about these counters are the matte finish, they're just beautiful. We considered concrete, fireslate, and some other sustainable materials but opted for the simplicity of locally-produced Richlite.
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Bamboo can have about 4% Sand in it and it's loaded with plastic along with there is Nothing "Organic" about Bamboo that's been made into a board! .......,,,..............................................Use untreated Wooden boards for the least damage to your edge .. all of these composite boards have epoxies & plastics that I don't want in my foods. ..............Natural woods have Anti-microbial properties! Plastic does not!
 
Lord_Balkan said:
I don't know if this is the best place to post this... but what are your opinions on cutting boards? Which ones would you get and which ones would you avoid?
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The best cutting boards I have seen and sell is what they call the HINOKi board. Japanese Cyprus tree. It's a self healing wood, meaning if you put a cut into it, it will eventually disappear. Also you must lightly wet the board when using it so it doesn't damage the cutting edge of your knives. The board won't warp! They also have a natural lemon smell to them. Can wash the board with mild detergent and let dry naturally. A bit pricey but really nice boards. They are made for the Shun knives or Japanese kitchen knives originally, but sell them for any knife. Remember that ALL knives have microscopic teeth on the cutting edge. If you use granite, glass or any hard surface like that, you are destroying the cutting edge of your knives by flattening those teeth, therefore having to sharpen more often. Hope this helps in you decisions.
 
I made an end grain maple and walnut board. Am just applying last finish coats and will have first test Thanksgiving. 2 coats 2 lb shellac to seal cutting surface. Nearly sanded off. Two coats salad bowl varnish, nearly worked down. One coat rubbed in beeswax. Two coats rubbed in mineral oil.
Sides and bottom are one coat salad bowl finish. Will evaluate need for beeswax and mineral oil on the sides and bottom.
 
Old Traf said:
I made an end grain maple and walnut board. Am just applying last finish coats and will have first test Thanksgiving. 2 coats 2 lb shellac to seal cutting surface. Nearly sanded off. Two coats salad bowl varnish, nearly worked down. One coat rubbed in beeswax. Two coats rubbed in mineral oil.
Sides and bottom are one coat salad bowl finish. Will evaluate need for beeswax and mineral oil on the sides and bottom.
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Lee valley has “tried and true” brand oil finishes that are food safe. The tung oil darkens the wood a lot, while the Danish oil yellows it, but not as drastically. I use them exclusively on wood products that contact food now.

Edit: corrected typo.
 
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the "food safe" oil finishes are all mineral oil or mineral oil with an additive. you can buy the same stuff in the drugstore or grocery store. try "Mineral Oil, USP", about $3 for 8 ounces, look in the laxitive section.(don't worry, normal dose for an adult is 3 to 4 tablespoons, enough to oil a 12" square board several times.) I wonder how much Boos pays Food Network to be the only cutting board used and get the name on camera several times a show?
 
scott.livesey said:
the "food safe" oil finishes are all mineral oil or mineral oil with an additive. you can buy the same stuff in the drugstore or grocery store. try "Mineral Oil, USP", about $3 for 8 ounces, look in the laxitive section.(don't worry, normal dose for an adult is 3 to 4 tablespoons, enough to oil a 12" square board several times.) I wonder how much Boos pays Food Network to be the only cutting board used and get the name on camera several times a show?
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The mineral oil from the pharmacy doesn’t cure. The stuff I listed does. I’ve used both and there is a big difference in how they work.
 
If you mix the drugstore mineral oil with beeswax would it cure? I was going to try that, I have a had a brick of beeswax around forever.
 
timos- said:
If you mix the drugstore mineral oil with beeswax would it cure? I was going to try that, I have a had a brick of beeswax around forever.
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Nah - that's what Boos Board Cream and Howard Butcher Block conditioner are, essentially. An emulsion of beeswax and carnauba wax in mineral oil. I have both. Neither of them cure.

The Tried and True brand finishes use linseed oil. That will cure. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products
 
timos- said:
If you mix the drugstore mineral oil with beeswax would it cure? I was going to try that, I have a had a brick of beeswax around forever.
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The stuff Warren mentioned uses linseed oil as their "drying oil" or polymerizing oil. Mineral oil will never polymerize, it is non-drying. However, melting beeswax into mineral oil is probably the same as most of the butcher block and cutting board butters/conditioners that are out there; these are conditioners that need replenishing unlike the finishes that Warren mentioned.

I personally like the mineral oil and beeswax conditioner on my cutting boards. It works nicely and is easy to make and put on the board. I also use it on the natural wood handles that are on my Japanese knives and on some natural wood sayas/sheaths.

Edited to add: jc57 beat me to it while I was writing my reply. :)
 
milkbaby said:
Edited to add: jc57 beat me to it while I was writing my reply.
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That's reassuring. I was reading your reply, and thinking "I must be on his ignore list or something, but at least I was right because someone agrees with me." :)
 
another option is to seal the board with sanding sealer or a 50-50 blend of polyurethane and mineral spirits. apply like stain, let stand for several minutes then wipe off excess and dry overnite. apply wax/oil blend, let stand for several hours then buff with old tee shirt or lambs wool pad. gives a nice satin finish. for heavy use boards, i use the wax/oil blend and replenish when board looks dry or finish looks uneven. Boos board creme is about $8 for 5oz, a pound of wax and a pound of oil is $11 or $1.75 for 5oz.
 
Maybe Kevin can epoxy a wood veneer over that glass monstrosity.

I've made a few long-grain cutting boards for my own use, and now mostly use the plastic one for meat, onions, and garlic. Always a quick wash and then dry vertically in the rack so it's quick. I hand wash all my dishes, so I no worry about the dishwasher, and I wouldn't want to wait until it gets run anyway. Howard's gets applied every once in awhile - I'm not fanatic about it. The natural wood knife handles get more attention. :)
 
I make wood cutting boards, but use plastic in my kitchen. you can find drops of HDPE or PP on auction site cheap. 1/2" x 16" x 40" for less than $20 delivered, enough for 3 big boards or a bunch of smaller ones. they don't mind the dishwasher, don't hurt the edge, and when too scarred up, it goes to the shop or tackle box. I even make some cutting boards that have ridge around 3 sides so you can slide in a piece of HDPE when cutting messy stuff
 
Sanding ? When I started woodworking I was told that sanding would always leave some silica [silicon dioxide as in sand paper ] in the wood so I should never use a cutting tool on wood that has been sanded !!! ] Planes or scrapers can do a good job without harm !!
 
Barman1 said:
I've been using the same bamboo board daily now for the better part of ten years and it wears like iron.
I just wash it after each use and it's just now developing a small crack (probably due to the scalding water I use) that has no real bearing on its usefulness.
Not too shabby for the pittance I paid for it.
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My bamboo board is close to 20 years old and used daily. "wears like iron" is exactly my experience.
 
Our kitchen never used soap, etc on the wooden butcher block; just a scrub (scrape) with a rather dry stainless steel scrubbie and scraped with a bench scraper.

Then made a paste of mineral oil and salt (like mud), worked it on the board and let sit overnight.

Next morning came in and brushed the dry salt off, got to work
 
Chefget said:
Our kitchen never used soap, etc on the wooden butcher block; just a scrub (scrape) with a rather dry stainless steel scrubbie and scraped with a bench scraper.

Then made a paste of mineral oil and salt (like mud), worked it on the board and let sit overnight.

Next morning came in and brushed the dry salt off, got to work
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I’ll have to try that.
 
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