Cutting cardboard,Plain or serrated blade?

FOG2

FOG2

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I cut open a lotta auto parts boxes and would like Opinions plz. on your prefered Blade style for cardboard.
Also do you think a Hawkbill blade might be better than a traditional style for
this ? Thanks,Fog
 
I prefer a plain edge myself, serrations seem to tear into mediums more than they cut. For cardboard I'd focus more on steel type and geometry. Flat ground and something with good edge retention and abrasion resistance, like S30V would be my choice.
As for the Hawkbill, it's one of my favorite patterns and I say if ya like it, go for it. It's got a timeless look, and I'd venture to say your theory on being a better box cutter--a la a linoleum knife--is probably a sound one. Least, that's my two cents on the matter.


Gautier
 
Sometimes I have to cut up a lot of boxes to fit into the recycler. I'm talking heavy shipping crates cut into 12"x12" or 12"x8".

I use both my Benchmade Onion with 1/2 serrations and my Spydie Tasman Salt (hawkbill, non-serrated).

I think that the serrations has a little better cutting ability on cardboard but there is better control & feel with the hawkbill.

If I had to do this as part of my job, I'd use my hawkbill because I can resharpen it easily.
 
Serrated for plastic straps if you cut them plain for just boxes or just get a partialy serrated.
I like hawkbills for cutting boxes but dont cut many open.
 
A plain edge works best. Thin stock, flat grind, warnecliff. Really the best cardboard blade I have is the Spyderco Ronin.
 
A David Boye Cobalt folder will really cut up cardboard! GOOD LUCK! Kevin:thumbup:
 
Maybe this isn't what you are after, but a cheap box cutter with the removable razor blades inside is really the perfect tool for that job and saves your EDC from getting dull and glue-covered.
 
Used a regular Victorinox SAK for cutting open and cutting up boxes for a year when I worked at an arts & crafts store. The plain blade worked well.
 
Tis true that the old changeable blade box cutter makes good sense......BUT........
well ya,all know but what.:D

I do love Wharnie blades and dont own one.Hmmmmmmmmmm...Hey WIFEYYYYYYYYYYYYYY ...........

Thanks all !
 
lurker said:
maybe This Isn't What You Are After, But A Cheap Box Cutter With The Removable Razor Blades Inside Is Really The Perfect Tool For That Job And Saves Your Edc From Getting Dull And Glue-covered.
Click to expand...

Exactly!!!!
 
Replaceable blades go dull fast and need constant sharpening. They also are not as sharp as my EDC. I also do not carry one, thus they are a poor choice.
 
I find it depends on the knife, but for heavy cardboard, I generally prefer a good, sharp plain edge. If I have to saw a lot with a serrated blade in heavy cardboard, I tend to stick or bind up. And forget any serrations that are too long. Sometimes smoother serrations have done fine for me in heavy cardboard, like the ones on my large Benchmade folders.
Jim
 
Thin and sharp, preferably with little or no cutout at the base of the blade to catch on.

SAKs work wonders, and the Caly 3 zips through cardboard scary fast. Choil makes it really nice too.
 
FOG2 said:
Cutting cardboard,Plain or serrated blade?
I cut open a lotta auto parts boxes and would like Opinions plz. on your prefered Blade style for cardboard.
Also do you think a Hawkbill blade might be better than a traditional style for
this ? Thanks,Fog
Click to expand...

A plain edge on a blade with a flat or at least very high grind works best for me.
I find a hawkbill harder to sharpen than a traditional style.
My current favorite for this type of thing is a Benchmade Monochrome. Very good steel (N690) that stays sharp a long time. Very high grind. Nice straight blade. Slices cardboard effortlessly. And it is pretty cheap, too. Got mine for a bit over $30.
 
I bought a SE Tasman Salt for boxes and food packaging. Later, I bought a PE one. I've only been carrying the PE one since (been over a year now).

I found that the serrations on the hawkbill bound up too much in thicker cardboard, and tore rather than sliced on thinner materials. The binding occurred towards the tip, where the inward curve becomes the most dramatic. The plain edge blade glides through rather than chews through.

Before I got the Tasman, I carried a SE Atlantic Salt for these purposes. The fully serrated straight blade never had the binding problems I encountered with the SE Tasman. Nor with my SE Salt 1.
 
Don't know if it's an option for you, but I know for a fact that the Camillus/Becker C/U 7 will go thru Cardboard like its butter, my personal favorite fixed blade. I cannot wait for Ka-bar to resurrect the Becker line.
 
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