Cutting metal with bandsaw - lubrication?

Stromberg Knives

Stromberg Knives

strombergknives.com
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As I was changing the blade on my metal cutting band saw (http://www.femi.it/en/femi-machine-professional-processing-wood-metal.aspx?l=51&f=28&p=128) I reread the manual for it. The manual clearly states that I shouldn't use any lubrication when cutting.

Why is that? I use cutting oil when drilling, and I've seen numerous people use oil when cutting metal with a bandsaw.

Should I disregard the manual and start using cutting oil? Will it give me a longer blade life and/or smoother cuts?
 
I don't have as much experience as many, though I am in school to be a shop teacher, and I'd advise following the manual. A band saw cutting metal is much different than a drill bit, as a drill bit creates chips, and the lubrication is to prevent friction and heating if the drill bit. With a band saw, the blades move through the material, and have time to cool as it goes around, so for that reason I believe it is not needed.
 
In a word.....Sludge. The swarf won't fall away and you would just gum up your saw.
 
My metal band saw has a reservoir and pump for lubrication, but I've never actually used it. I think the lubrication that is used in a saw like that is much thinner than tapping or cutting fluid, so it doesn't gum up. The metal guy I go to for welding steels uses a large industrial saw and the lubrication is about the consistency of water. I've just never done enough cuts in a row or in material thick enough to feel like I needed it.
 
Yeah for small saws not setup for it, it's unnecessary. For big saws sawing big stuff at high feeds it is.
 
Matt R said:
Metal saws don't usually run fast enough to create enough heat to need lubrication.
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Sorry to disagree bud, but that's just not true. Small ones usually don't have enough head weight and speed for such, but my larger horizontal (which is still a small saw by industrial standards) runs 1" x 114" blades and will vaporize my coolant if I increase the feed or speed too high. Most medium size horizontals I've seen my size or bigger use flood coolant, and typically large amounts of it. Not only to preserve the blade life and increase cutting efficiency, but to avoid spot hardening in the workpiece.
 
Lubrication on a band saw is (a) good for the cutting action and blade life, but (b) bad for the drive system, because it require friction between the drive wheel and blade.

I'm guessing the manual advises against lubrication because of (b).
 
When you change the blade look at the wheels.

The no name portabands I have have a rubbereized wheel for traction.
Oil will degrade that coating until it comes off.

If that's not it, the oil will build up a layer and the blade will slip off just like tires hydroplaning on water.
 
Not only is the wrong leg switched but you're also finding a return path for power through ground if your neutral is disconnected. Something else has failed.
Do you have an ohm meter to check continuity between neutral and ground?
 
It depends on the saw, some are set up for it. We use Lenox band ade coolant in ours. Its about water consistancy.We have cut up to 1" x 12" plate steel in ours so coolant is important to keep the blade cool and it helps to flush out chips too.some saws have rubber bands for traction, oil will eat them up and gum up roller bearings.
 
javand said:
Sorry to disagree bud, but that's just not true. Small ones usually don't have enough head weight and speed for such, but my larger horizontal (which is still a small saw by industrial standards) runs 1" x 114" blades and will vaporize my coolant if I increase the feed or speed too high. Most medium size horizontals I've seen my size or bigger use flood coolant, and typically large amounts of it. Not only to preserve the blade life and increase cutting efficiency, but to avoid spot hardening in the workpiece.
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You don't have to apologize! I was talking about vertical ones, like most of us in the knife making world use, and when hand fed like cutting out blanks. If the blade is sharp and I'm hand feeding then I don't get much heat at all.
 
Matt R said:
You don't have to apologize! I was talking about vertical ones, like most of us in the knife making world use, and when hand fed like cutting out blanks. If the blade is sharp and I'm hand feeding then I don't get much heat at all.
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Yeah I never use it with my vertical either, and I've got a pretty big one (36" throat). Sorry it never even occurred to me we were talking about a contouring saw.
 
12345678910 said:
When you change the blade look at the wheels.

The no name portabands I have have a rubbereized wheel for traction.
Oil will degrade that coating until it comes off.

If that's not it, the oil will build up a layer and the blade will slip off just like tires hydroplaning on water.
Click to expand...
I didn't know the cheap ones don't have replaceable rubbers for the wheels. Sometimes the rubber on the drive wheel wears out and the blade come aloose. That's when I swap the drive wheel rubber to the floating side.
 
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