Cutting with a szabla in 1075

Love those sabres.

The Hungarian sabre is the traditional blade of my people which evolved from the Avar sabre. These had simple hilts with just a cross guard.

Interesting to see how most sabres evolved to have knuckle bows and basket hilts, but the Russian (cossack originally I believe) Shaska has no hilt. (Edit: sorry I meant has no cross guard)

The polish sabres (szablya) retain that original cross guard hilt often.
 
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Love those sabres.

The Hungarian sabre is the traditional blade of my people which evolved from the Avar sabre. These had simple hilts with just a cross guard.
I've considered welding a knucklebow onto this one-I think it'd look good that way
 
Quite impressive stuff. I'd love to see some pictures of the overall and specifics. I am assuming that when you mention welding on a knuckle guard you mean attaching to the hilt and not welding to the blade itself but we don't see your hilt assembly in your short video.

The cutting is quite a testament to sharpness and form with such a light blade. I have been surprised myself with some of my period swords which are similarly well less than 2lbs. Some index and aim an edge better than others but practice makes perfect.

Cheers

GC
 
Damn it looks great in the pic on FB. Cut that fat roll like it was sushi.
 
Love those sabres.

The Hungarian sabre is the traditional blade of my people which evolved from the Avar sabre. These had simple hilts with just a cross guard.

Interesting to see how most sabres evolved to have knuckle bows and basket hilts, but the Russian (cossack originally I believe) Shaska has no hilt. (Edit: sorry I meant has no cross guard)

The polish sabres (szablya) retain that original cross guard hilt often.
Its easier to switch the shashka from one hand to the other while on a horse without it having that guard.
 
Its easier to switch the shashka from one hand to the other while on a horse without it having that guard.

Is that the reason? That makes sense.

I also had heard that the shaska was used in a way that kept the hand back. (on foot, don't know how this works on horse, where you are generally not getting into a "sword fight") Alot of guardless swords apparently adopt techniques like this for hand protection. The hand tries to use the blade to protect itself.

A basket hilt (to a lesser degree knuckle bows) allows the fencer to adopt different guards not desirable if you have no guard.

(Sort of like this. This guy is just showing the hand position, not a proper stance)

Edit:sorry forgot to add pic
mqdefault.jpg


I had also heard that many guardless swords were intended to be used in conjunction with a shield. I doub't that is he case with the Shaska as it is a horse rider's sabre mainly.
 
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Quite impressive stuff. I'd love to see some pictures of the overall and specifics. I am assuming that when you mention welding on a knuckle guard you mean attaching to the hilt and not welding to the blade itself but we don't see your hilt assembly in your short video.

The cutting is quite a testament to sharpness and form with such a light blade. I have been surprised myself with some of my period swords which are similarly well less than 2lbs. Some index and aim an edge better than others but practice makes perfect.

Cheers

GC
Thanks-had to hunt down some pics from when I widened the main fuller
 

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Anyway, here they are-I was indeed going to weld a knucklebow to the guard (the whole thing is just pinned together) and socket the pommel end into the tang. It's a 25 or 26" blade, 1/4" to 3/32"(ish) distal taper
 
It is looking fairly traditional as is but your plan seems pretty good and how the guard would join to the pommel/tang. It is nice to see the long curved eastern European stuff coming to life.

Cheers

GC
 
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