D2 pros & cons??

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Dec 29, 2003
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The super steel of today seems to be (among other of course) CPM-S30V and S60V and S90V. From what I understand (which is very little) is that D2 is a semi-stainless tool steel often used in steel cutting dies in many Tool & Die shops. Clearly this makes it a very strong & hard steel.

How does D2 stack up against today's "super steels" with regard to taking a good edge and more importantly holding the edge? I understand D2 can be hardened to 60-62 Rc easily, leading me to believe that it'd be hard as hell to sharpen on my Sharpmaker (without the diamond rods) if the blade were really dull. I guess the trick would be to not let it get really dull in the first place.

While you certainly see some of the custom makers still using it, Dozier Knives comes to mind for instance, what led a large number of the custom makers to switch to the CPM-S30V (and others like it, i.e., S60V, S90V, etc.) rather than continue to use D2?

Look forward to your feedback.

-Patrick


Note: I tried searching for info but I can't get around the search engine's filter. Evidently "D2" has too few characters for the search engine.
 
All I can say is that D2 is tough to sharpen by hand as all the Really good steels are.
Best is to not let your blade get that dull to begin with.
D2 will take a fantastic edge even better than S30V IMO.
 
I know this isn't a very sexy sharpening kit, but I use the diamond Gatco kit on my D2 blades. Works great, seems to cut as fast as ATS34 and 154CM. Then I finish on a leather strop loaded with Veritas compound. Works for me.

I just can't bring myself to pony up and buy the EdgePro yet. I bought this kit for $30 at Galyans due to a price error. (supposed to be $100)

Oops.

Robb
 
D2 is a unhomogenious alloy which includes large carbides. The larger ones give you the wear resistance. But you have to accept, that the edge becomes more like a microsaw, because the large carbides tend to chipp out of the edge.

On hunting applicaions it might be the right choice.

S30V is more homogenious which includes carbides of a smaller size. Wear resistance is sure. The edge comes out and lasts for long on a much finer level than on D2.

That is, what i´ve found out, comparing a single S30V and a single D2 blade. D2 changes with ht, so you get smaller carbides and just a few remain large. Comparable to M2. But you will hardly find a D2 blade hardened and tempered on high temperatures.

I found S30V to be much more comfortable and strong for general purposes.

Some say, D2 holds its edge as long as 154CM, some compare the S30V edge holding to M2.
 
I have many D2 blades, and one s30v blade. About half of my D2's are Doziers, and I think he does the best job out there coaxing the most out of D2. The D2 edges seem toothier than the s30v. Both seem to hold their edges a long time, and both require (at least for me) a diamond stone to sharpen. I have been very happy with my s30v blade. I'll never part with my Doziers either. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a knife with either steel in the future.
 
If the D2 blade is very dull or you're re-profiling it, a coarse or extra-coarse diamond stone will save a great deal of time and effort. At the very least, a coarse carborundum stone is a lower-cost option. The DMT stone was $35 versus a new carborundum stone in the 5$-to-$10 price range.

I re-profiled a new 806D2 to about a 25-degree included-angle, starting with a DMT 6" coarse diamond bench stone, progressing through Spyderco medium ceramic stone, 600-grit abrasive powder on a rough-surface leather strop, and final polish with 10,00-grit chromium oxide on a smooth-surface strop. It took about an hour, thanks to the agressive metal-removal of the DMT diamond bench stone used in re-profiling.

If you're not experienced with hand-stoning with benchstones, investing in a precision tool such as the Edge-Pro is a wise investment.
 
A recent Blade article on D2 and some anectdotal comments from knife makers indicate that D2 is not the simplest of steels to heat treat. I don't remember the details. The same article indicated that the steel holds a good edge and performs like ATS-34. It can chip and is best left to slicing applications rather than chopping. Per Dozier you can't get a mirror polish on D2 (he goes to RW 60-61) but per Queen cutlery they go to 58-59 RW and get a mirror polish.
 
On my opinion the super steel of today is M2 (in knife production).
S30V is most promouted, as I uderstand.
Even S90V can be hardened only to 60 HRC with acceptable toughness way behind M2.
Thanks, Vassili.
 
d2 stacks up very well against the latest "supersteels", so does m2 (d2 & m2 have very similar toughness, but m2 has more wear resistance).. S30V has been called the ideal all-around cutlery steel because it has equal or better toughness compared to tool steels like d2 & m2, but better corrosion resistance than both of them - even better corrosion resistance than other high-end stainless steel cutlery staples like 154cm & ats34. S30V was designed specifically for knives, which is why i believe that Crucible really stretched themselves to achieve that balance of edgeholding capability, impact toughness, & corrosion resistance.. but in the end, i can't tell the difference in cutting performance between d2 & S30V, cuz i keep my blades pretty well protected from corrosive elements.
 
I got a Queen slip join, large stockman, with D2 steel. I thought it would be a breeze to sharper the thin blades, but man, that stuff is hard. Even on the Edgepro it was going slow. I almost wonder if they made the D2 harder than it should have been during the HT.
 
Dozier's comment about D2 steel not polishing as well as other steels certainly appears true in the case of my 806D2. Even with 10,000-grit chromium oxide stropping, I can't get a mirror polish even close to that produced on ATS34 blades.
 
So as far as getting an edge on it, will d2 take a good edge at all? Assuming you have the tools of course. Because I've heard people compare it to a micro saw on the edge. I'm in the process of makeing a knife at the moment and was wondering if I should change steels?
 
10 year necro-thread!!! ... but to answer your question: Yes, D2 can take a great, hair-popping edge. :) The "mico saw" comment has a huge emphasis in "mico" as in microscopic.
 
D2 and S30V are kissing cousins, really. They each have a lot of very hard carbides and can be sharpened to a mirror finish. That being said, D2 has larger carbides than DS30V and slices superbly with a coarse(r) edge. DMT medium (red) hone produces an excellent cutting edge on my Dozier K1. But in real life use, it's hard to tell the difference. Both are great cutlery steels IMHO.
 
I have many D2 blades, and one s30v blade. About half of my D2's are Doziers, and I think he does the best job out there coaxing the most out of D2. The D2 edges seem toothier than the s30v. Both seem to hold their edges a long time, and both require (at least for me) a diamond stone to sharpen. I have been very happy with my s30v blade. I'll never part with my Doziers either. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a knife with either steel in the future.

I agree 100%. I have a Dozier and it is a great knife. I have carried it for the better part of 15 years and it has never let me down. D2 ROCKS.
 
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