D2 vs 1095?

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xxguitarist

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I'm looking for some help on the comparisons and preferences on these two steels. As far as I understand, D2 will hold an edge better, but not sharpen as easily.
As far a context goes, I'll probably be picking up a RAT7 in the sooner-than-later timeframe:D
So, post your preferences, and let me know why!
 
I'll get you started. Then, leave it up to the experts to finish off.

D2 will take a nice edge and hold it a long time, if heat treated correctly. It can be a little difficult to sharpen. Best to not let it get dull, or any knife for that matter. A little more corrosive resistant than 1095, but not a true stainless steel.

1095 is a tough carbon steel. It, too, will take a very nice edge and will be easy to sharpen. Stands up better to impact, as when battoning. I believe it will take more flex than D2 as well. If not, I'm sure someone will correct me on this.

I like D2 is smaller knives, used strictly for cutting tasks. There are a few Doziers in my collection and they all cut very well. For a larger field knive I prefer carbon steel. Again, easier to sharpen and tougher overall. Although, battoning through wood is about as abusive as I get with my knives.

There is also a RAT-7 in my collection. Came with a thick edge. Once it was reprofiled it became a very good slicer, regardless of its size. Comfortable handle. Good field knife overall. I chose it in 1095.

Hope this helps......
 
D2 is not that difficult to sharpen. As long as the edge geometry is done well (not too thick at the edge) a diamond hone will bring a burr up quickly on D2. Finish off with a fine hone and strop.
Scott
 
D2 has a much higher wear resistance as it has a lot more carbides, it is also more corrosion resistant as it has about 6-8% of chromium dissolved in austenite. 1095 is a lot tougher and the edge stability is a lot higher meaning it works better at low angles with a high polish. D2 is better suited for aggressive slicing with a coarse finish. 1095 can make a very nice small knife steel, but generally it is ran fairly soft in most knives 55/57 HRC and thus is more of a large chopper material. For those knives it would be better if 1065 or similar was used, 1095 just has name recognition and is thus used.

-Cliff
 
if D2 is really good for really small knives and 1095 really good for really big knives


then WTF is ontario doing!?


i'm interested in buying a rat or tak and got the same question.
 
I don't know why but the D2 steel feels like it could be brittle (less flex). D2 to me feels a little heavier too as opposed to 1095. Again that is just my observation on handling a couple D2 knives. I don't know why but I really am not all that partial to D2, feels more like a sharpened stone then steel. Of coarse making the knife and all could have something to do with it. My reference point is handling the Knives of Alaska blades. I find them heavier than 1095 and although strong and stiff I feel they would break or chip easier. There is no evidence at all to support what I am saying though, but that is why I never bought any of the said brand knife because I did not like the feel of the D2. It would make sense that for smaller blades the D2. Again just thoughts and I'm sure you will get better info on your topic.
 
I always catch some flack over this, but....... I like 1095 over D2. The carbon I can get super sharp and it holds its edge just fine. And when it begins to dull, I can bring it back.

The D2 I can't get razor sharp. Oh it's sharp, but not close to the carbon steels. Maybe I need a diamond stone? Maybe I need a different steel.....
 
StretchNM said:
The D2 I can't get razor sharp. Oh it's sharp, but not close to the carbon steels.
Click to expand...

D2 is really difficult to grind and thus could take as much as several times the amount of passes on the stone to sharpen as 1095 or similar steels. With such really high carbide steels one of the main problems is trying to do too much work with fine stones. Form the edge with a decently coarse stone and only when it is sharp go to the fine stones. With a good coarse stone even steels like D2 will respond decently fast.

Diamond Dog said:
D2 to me feels a little heavier too as opposed to 1095.
Click to expand...

This is probably as there is more metal in the knives as the manufacturer probably did not take the time to grind as much material off of the blade. It could also be an issue with balance, lack of tapers in the blade or tang which is common with high carbide steel blades.

-Cliff
 
I generally sharpen by hand with DMT(diamond) stones, i have a benchstone in fine and a pocket one in fine and extra fine.
if i'm feeling lazy, sometimes i just hit a knife with one of those carbide v slot sharpeners for a pass or two so its useable, then get it truly sharp later.
I havent gone to the point of using a strop yet.. though it very well might be coming.

The knife will be used for camp chores.. wood cutting etc.

It seems the opinion is that the D2 is more durable, but more work to put an edge on, while the 1095 is easier to work with, which is about what i thought.

Is this primarily an issue of preference, and something where a user rather than conniseur wouldn't really care?
 
To my thinking, if my survival knife gets dull, I can sharpen it.

If my survival knife snaps in half, that's a more difficult fix, especially if I'm counting on the knife way outside of the city.

Thus, I'd be very leery of counting on a D2 knife as a survival blade.
 
If I'm buying an Ontario RAT 5, 7, RTAK II, or TAK-1, I'm buying it in 1095.

I'm not a fan of big blades (over 4 inches or so) in D2.
Otherwise, it's one of my favorite steels.
 
StretchNM said:
The D2 I can't get razor sharp. Oh it's sharp, but not close to the carbon steels. Maybe I need a diamond stone? Maybe I need a different steel.....
Click to expand...

I am in the same boat. I had a friend put a really nice edge on my pocket knife and now I just work like heck to make sure it stays there. I like the knife though.
 
JohnnyO said:
I'll get you started. Then, leave it up to the experts to finish off.

D2 will take a nice edge and hold it a long time, if heat treated correctly. It can be a little difficult to sharpen. Best to not let it get dull, or any knife for that matter. A little more corrosive resistant than 1095, but not a true stainless steel.

1095 is a tough carbon steel. It, too, will take a very nice edge and will be easy to sharpen. Stands up better to impact, as when battoning. I believe it will take more flex than D2 as well. If not, I'm sure someone will correct me on this.

I like D2 is smaller knives, used strictly for cutting tasks. There are a few Doziers in my collection and they all cut very well. For a larger field knive I prefer carbon steel. Again, easier to sharpen and tougher overall. Although, battoning through wood is about as abusive as I get with my knives.

There is also a RAT-7 in my collection. Came with a thick edge. Once it was reprofiled it became a very good slicer, regardless of its size. Comfortable handle. Good field knife overall. I chose it in 1095.

Hope this helps......
Click to expand...

That pretty much somes up my feelings on it as well. I have the 1095 version and love it. I played with a similar sized Busse not long ago and i would take my RAT over it in most situations.:thumbup:
 
just my 2 cents -- i'm all for the 1095. i've got a benchmade 201 in d2, i took it to work one day and it comes back almost useless, small notches in blade.. it seemed to dull horribly quick and its hard to sharpen (i'm no pro but i can sharpen a knife decent enough. i contract install cable for mediacom, so i constantly cut .. mainly tie wraps and strip cable sometimes when i dont have a stripper handy among other things. anyway, my tops street scalpel is in 1095 and its stayed sharper than the d2 by far. i'm kinda disappointed by the d2.
 
jarlaxle said:
I played with a similar sized Busse not long ago and i would take my RAT over it in most situations.
Click to expand...

What did you favor with the RAT?

secretagentmann007 said:
i've got a benchmade 201 in d2, i took it to work one day and it comes back almost useless, small notches in blade.
Click to expand...

The edge angle may be too acute for the work being done.


anyway, my tops street scalpel is in 1095 and its stayed sharper than the d2 by far.
Click to expand...

TOPS tends to run thick edge profiles which may be why it is doing better than the D2 blade in this case. Do you know the angles for both blades?

-Cliff
 
I should clarify--my D2 pocket knife (Queen) holds an edge really well. I just hate to sharpen it after it loses it, so I strop it regularly!
 
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