Damascus Blade Cleaning

mwschilling

mwschilling

Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
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One of my favorite EDC's is a Damascus and CF Chiron folder by our good friend Bruce Bingenheimer. I use this knife regularly and handle it frequently. I noticed it developed a bit of surface rust on the blade, likely from fingerprints.

I looked online for some tips on cleaning the blade to remove these rust spots. Suggestions were to use Wd40 or other light oil with steel wool. Others suggested Hoppes #9. I used Hoppes, since that is what I use on my guns to remove light rust. I also used ultra-fine steel wool.

It worked and the rust is gone but it did diminish/fade the Damascus pattern ever so slightly. I'm sure over time and continued use of this method the Damascus pattern will fade even more.

Any other suggestions for cleaning Damascus and removing surface rust without fading the pattern? I understand prevention is better than restoration, but for an EDC it will happen. I do coat with Ren Wax every time I clean it.

Last question, can the Damascus be restored by re-etching when needed, maybe in a couple years.


 
A couple of the variables to consider will be the depth of the initial etch, layer count, post-etching steps taken by the maker, etc.
You may consider a quick etch of your own to enhance the pattern.
 
I have often had blades contrast fade after use and cleaning. I would just use the heck out it, not worry... and in a few years have him re-etch.

I have found that if you really use one of these knives there is no way to keep em looking pristine.
 
Breakfree CLP, inexpensive, can get it at most sporting goods departments and gun stores, MIL-Spec'd, C-leans, L-ubricates, and P-rotects, synthetic so will never gum up, Here is a post about it. I have used it very successfully on all my guns and knives and metal tools.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
 
What a maker would do to clean up Damascus without committing yourself to a full refinishing job is to clamp the blade down and use a hard backing (like wood, plastic or aluminum) and 2500 grit sandpaper with gentle, straight strokes. This will shine up your high spots without pulling the oxides out of the 'valleys' like scrubbing with steel wool or a finger will do. I wouldn't recommend this on a bold, high-contrast pattern with a lot of large black areas, it takes practice to leave that oxide alone especially on a convex blade and you would do better to have the maker slick it up for you. Low contrast Damascus that has already had most of the oxides removed and high layer counts are pretty easy however. Any knife that can be taken apart is easy for the maker to re-etch and finish like new. Blades with fixed guards can be more of a challenge but certainly doable. If you are comfortable using the sandpaper just make sure it's new and clean, regular shop dust seems to be much coarser than 2500, also any dirt on the knife can leave unsightly scratches when drug across the blade.
-HD
 
Mark, When cleaning if any mild abrasive is used it is going to wash the oxides a bit. It is good that you addressed the surface rust before it went too deep to address.

It can be re-etched anytime. It will need to be taken apart as the pivot bearing area and detent track needs to be mask off. If these areas happen to get etched it will affect the smooth-ness of opening and closing. As an EDC it is going to show signs of fading in the low areas with use and light cleaning over time.

As Jon mentioned use it and when your ready send her back to me for a tune up.

Thanks Karl and Haley for explaining about the variables that come into play.

GatorFlash I have never tried the CLP but heard good things about it.


Mark glad to see you are still using as your EDC.

Thanks so much
Bing
 
Thanks for all the great info. Exactly what I was looking for. Bing thanks for the email as well. I like being able to use knives without worrying and I do use this one for everything. In a couple years when it gets really faded, I'll send it back for Bing spa treatment.
 
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