Daniel Fairly's Q&A thread

Daniel I was looking for the proper technique for etching and I think i did it bass-ackwards. I have the Atlas mini etcher. Do you have any idea on the proper way to get a good etch?
 
Cool you got an etcher! :cool:

Tips

High Finish on Blade - 400 grit minimum

Etch (DC) then mark (AC)

Etch and mark one second on, one second off for about 12-15 cycles

Clean etch with grinder, sandpaper or buffer. I usually etch then sand the flats one last time... usually etch at 600-1000 grit then back down to 400-800 for the flats depending on the knife. The redundant sanding and going back steps make for a clean finish.

Use the proper electrolyte - I like the USAKM stuff, stainless steel especially needs a good etchent



I hope this helps!
 
It does. I have two different marked bottles of etchant solution. I wasn't quite sure on the correct procedure for etching. If you do one on, one off, alternating between etch and mark, then I'll try that.

Thanks!
 
Farchyld said:
It does. I have two different marked bottles of etchant solution. I wasn't quite sure on the correct procedure for etching. If you do one on, one off, alternating between etch and mark, then I'll try that.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Etch a dozen times then switch to mark to blacken the etch. Experiment with longer or more etch times... my instructions work great at 24 volts.
 
Farchyld said:
It does. I have two different marked bottles of etchant solution. I wasn't quite sure on the correct procedure for etching. If you do one on, one off, alternating between etch and mark, then I'll try that.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Etch a dozen times then switch to mark to blacken the etch. Experiment with longer or more etch times... my instructions work great at 24 volts.


The etch setting will eat metal away, with enough etch time and the right setup you can go deeper than stamping.

The mark setting blackens the steel and can be used after the etch or alone to blacken the steel.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Sorry... I'm a bit late to the party!

I hear maxim Oil has the best prices on P50 but I'm not sure if they or anyone sells it by the gallon.

I use 11 second oil for steels in the faster range, it is from McMaster Carr and available by the gallon. It isn't fast enough for 1095 or W2 so I brine quench the blades.

For my brine quench I like to go with 1/8" or thinner stock and quench it pre-grind. I have had 100% success this way... with everything else (thickness, etc) it can vary. I round everything to reduce the chance of stress cracks.

I hope this helps! I wish I knew a good source of Parks 50 by the gallon.



Drill slow - my favorite press runs at 150 rpm. Press hard as feed pressure is key. I run the drill faster with smaller bits too. Norseman bits are good, check USA knifemaker... Ti is just tricky and it takes time to get used to the right feed pressure.

400 might be kind of hard for 1095 tempering but only testing will show.
Click to expand...

The company I work for buys from McMaster all the time. I'll see if I can get in on an order. I can browse their catalog for hours! :)

Strangely I have zero problems drilling ti, but this steel is a nightmare. I'm just drilling series of holes to save on elbow grease when hacking out blanks. I'm using small bits so I'll speed her up and see if that helps. Thanks!

I *really* need a porta-band, or even an angle grinder. My pops taught me to make do with what I have, but having next to nothing is a bitch. :(
 
There's always more you can get that will make this hobby easier, that's for sure!
 
Farchyld said:
There's always more you can get that will make this hobby easier, that's for sure!
Click to expand...

Qft.

It sometimes amazes me what some of the hobby level makers have in their shops.

2x72's with accessories, electric ramping ovens, mills, Rockwell testers, dozens of specialized hand tools, etc...

Not that there's anything wrong with that. I'd drop 10k in a heartbeat if I could.

Maybe I should just have blanks cut and send out for HT. That alone would no doubt up my game immensely. :eek:
 
My shop is sort of unbalanced... lots of tools but no band saws! I get by with a chop saw, waterjet outsourcing and often the hacksaw! I did my first liner locks with a hacksaw and still seem to use it or the chopsaw on just about everything.

I have two kilns and everything to heat treat any type of steel... overkill for sure! Sara needed a bead kiln so the first one was a compromise... then I needed a big knife kiln! Sending them out for HT would save a lot of time and with RC testing I say why not... I still do all of mine and a small batch of 52100 is a two day 20 hour long process. I do have a lot of fun testing and manipulating my heat treat for the knives. :D

I will say every tool in my shop gets used a lot and most for every knife. I do have one file that has been used on almost every knife I have ever made and about 20 I almost never use... :D

Good cheap useful tool - wet tile/rock saw - $50 and cuts G10 and other handle materials like a chamP! It is way cheaper than band saw blades but without the dust
 
Those wet tile saws look interesting. Like a mini table saw. You don't cut steel with it though, right? Just handle material?

I had a very nice old Dremel scroll saw. The thing was pretty big and heavy duty (like all great old tools), but I gave it to a less fortunate man that had just lost his job. Karma is awesome though because I've been given, and learned, so much here. ;)

Aside from my above question. Anyone know if Zebra wood can be used in its natural form, or should it be stabilized? For handle material that is.
 
No steel with the wet saw, just G10, Micarta and other synthetic handle materials.

I generally just chop my steel to length and may chop an angle at the end or a chunk out of one side for the handle... then grind to profile.

Good stuff on the saw! :thumbup:

I checked on the Zebra wood and would probably stabilize it for a knife handle... sounds fine for tools though. If it were for me I'd probably just use a bunch of Danish Oil! ...or send off to stabilize... I have a pile I hope to get done one day.
 
Great stuff again Daniel. I really like your attitude about this stuff. I love the Shop forum but sometimes the standards are above my ability. Your awesome regardless of what Xander says behind your bac...

Just playin X. :D

Danish oil? I could do that no problem. I've been thinking about trying the ghetto brake bleeder pump + minwax wood hardener and will probably go that route since none of this stuff will be for sale anyway. ;)

Okay, I'm done bugging you. For now. :)
 
hey thanks!

The brake bleeder pump rig sounds nice... I like it!

I'm kind of a freakshow about details but after seeing family I have to remember... keep it low stress and do the very best! I keep learning and trying to make each knife better than the last but there is no reason to get too stressed, it's not rocket science! :D
 
hey thanks!

The brake bleeder pump rig sounds nice... I like it!

I'm kind of a freakshow about details but after seeing family I have to remember... keep it low stress and do the very best! I keep learning and trying to make each knife better than the last but there is no reason to get too stressed, it's not rocket science! :D
 
I get mine from ostrichmarket.com they rock. Be sure to go to the store site as they have two sites.

Hi guys!
 
Farchyld said:
Did, and unless my search fails me, it got me nowhere. Am i blind?
Click to expand...
It is there but it is one line and kind of hard to see. Plus it is like 84 bucks. I would go with Daniels suggestion. He has never steered me wrong yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top