Danish oil vs BLO

M

Maine20

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Aug 8, 2017
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Danish oil vs boiled linseed oil. Pros, cons. What do you prefer?

I have only used blo on handles so I can’t speak to the differences.

I have plenty of experience with the common film building finishes but in my opinion they aren’t the best choice on handles.
 
Either are fine - I prefer the Danish oil because it dries faster and is a less draggy finish - doesn't get sticky.

You can soak the entire handle in a trough, flower box, or tall narrow bucket for 10 to 20 minutes (or more if you forget about it ;), pull it out and wipe it real dry to the touch. Then let it air dry for a day before putting into use.

OR (my method) just wipe on 2 or 3 liberal coats, wiping between coats after about 10 or 15 minutes and then add another coat or 2. You can't wipe too much after the wait time. You don't want to leave residue, just a nice slick surface. The next coat will add more penetration. People who complain about getting a draggy finish with Watco are not wiping enough between coats. The amount of coats needed will depend on the porosity of the wood. Once the wood is saturated laying on 4 to 20 more coats (as some suggest) is a waste of time and material. That's OK for finishes that build up, like varnish or shellac, but of no use with penetrating oils.

Watco can be reapplied periodically easily with perhaps just a light sanding to clean the surface of dirt and debris. By this time though if you have used the handle well with bare hands you will not be adding much more "penetrating " oil as it will already be saturated but rather just adding a bit of clean sheen.

One mans process and preference, in any case, for what it's worth.

Ray
 
Ive only ever used BLO which works well for me, but the smell isn't the best. It's relatively inexpensive though so that's great.
I've heard lots of good things about WATCO and how well it dries, but living in northern California I've never had any real issues with BLO getting sticky on my handles.
 
I have a jar of "Special Sauce" that is 1/3 Watco, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 Mineral Spirits that I use on most things. Most of the things I have posted here at least.

It darkens and feeds old handles and gives a good/light base to fresh wood. I use it on some of the antique furniture I have as well. To each their own I suppose.
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
Doesn't matter what you use, but depends totally on whats available. I have used Motor Oil (in various tollerances), Linseed Oil, Danish Oil, Tungoil, and currently am mostly using sunflower oil and olive oil. Best protecting oil would be motor oil in any case.
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I used motor oil (and or chainsaw oil) for years when I had a commercial business removing and pruning trees. Mostly because that's what was on hand. But you'll want to make a habit of wearing gloves (you do anyway when you're tangling with pitchy/scratchy conifers, hauling brush, branches and pulling on ropes) otherwise you won't go home 'smelling like a rose', the oil never dries out and gradually wears off surfaces only through use.
Otherwise for tool handles I've had good luck with Teak & Tung furniture oil (which is probably 90% BLO) and I don't see any reason why Danish Oil wouldn't work. It's a 'polymerized linseed oil' too, although some versions also contain a varnish component.
 
Maine20 said:
Danish oil vs boiled linseed oil. Pros, cons.
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FWIW from a WOOD Magazine article that compares six types of finishes:
https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish

Drying oils,

- " including boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil, penetrate the wood surface and react with oxygen to cure."

- "Easy to apply"

- "Easily damaged, easily repaired: Drying oil cures too soft and thin to protect against moisture vapor or abrasion. It also darkens with time as it continues to oxidize."

- "Try it on carvings and objects you'll handle infrequently"

- "But avoid it for any project that requires moisture or abrasion resistance, especially outdoor projects. Oil provides almost no surface protection and does little to block moisture vapor, making it a poor choice for most furnishings you'll use every day."​


Oil/varnish mixes,

- "such as Danish oil, enhance grain while laying down a thin film. "

- "Goes on with a cloth: Comparable to drying oils for ease of application, these mixtures also penetrate the wood. The difference? They leave an extremely thin, soft surface film. "

- "Minimal protection, but easy to fix: Adding varnish to these mixtures doesn't significantly increase a project's abrasion, moisture, or heat resistance compared with boiled linseed oil."

- "Try it on indoor projects where you'll want a soft, satin sheen, or a simple, rustic finish as on a simulated antique."

- "But avoid it for surfaces you'd rather protect against wear and abrasion instead of constantly repairing the finish, as on dining tables or chairs."
​

Maine20 said:
What do you prefer?
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Based on the WOOD Magazine article, I guess I should not prefer either. The most protective finish they discuss is

Polyurethane varnish

- "Tricky to apply, but difficult to damage: Nothing short of chemical strippers or aggressive sanding will remove polyurethane, but that also helps it survive wear, moisture, and chemical damage in the first place."​

However (maybe I'm a Luddite), I have only used two types for handles. I have used Watco Walnut Danish Oil for the darker look, but mostly my first preference is BLO.


Bob
 
I believe that for tool handle finish feel in the hand and maintainability are as important as the protection provided. Yes the clear hard finishes may technically protect better but once that film is compromised it looks like crap and the protection is gone. Plus it feels like plastics instead of wood.

Sounds like you can’t go wrong with either type of oil finish. Thanks for the input.
 
Agent_H said:
I have a jar of "Special Sauce" that is 1/3 Watco, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 Mineral Spirits that I use on most things. Most of the things I have posted here at least.

It darkens and feeds old handles and gives a good/light base to fresh wood. I use it on some of the antique furniture I have as well. To each their own I suppose.
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I mix turpentine with BLO, it's probably a similar result as your mix. And it improves the smell IMO.
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
My hands always smell like that, so no real difference. Its my special cologne! ;) It does dry though, so it won't rub of, but it keeps on giving an odor.
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The scent of motor oil doesn't usually appeal to women nor to office worker colleagues. Hint hint; maybe you want to try rubbing on some diesel once in awhile to really turn some heads.
I was a high school woodshop teacher 10 years ago and a few passing (usually female) teachers mentioned they loved the smell of the shop whenever they passed by. Just for the helluvit (no, this is not a First Nations word) I took to soaking various types of sawdust (from out of the table saw base) in a dish of hot water every now and again to see what the reaction was. Black Walnut was least favoured but most everybody loved the airborne aroma of Red/White Cedar and of White Pine.
 
300Six said:
I used motor oil (and or chainsaw oil) for years. . .
the oil never dries out and gradually wears off surfaces only through use. . .
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Kevin Houtzager said:
. . .It does dry though, so it won't rub of, but it keeps on giving an odor.
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I'm with 300Six that motor oil will not dry. If it dried it would not continue to give off an odor, and it would make a darn lousy lubricant ;).

However, I'm am not suggesting that motor oil is a bad choice. In fact I think it would be a good choice. Besides, I use mineral oil (also non drying) on some wood items, so it would be hypocritical for me to be against non drying oils.


Bob
 
Square_peg said:
I don't think motor oil or diesel are healthy to handle.
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I happen to live in the "rust belt". Any oil coating of metal is better than none, whether it's from virgin-pressed organic-grown grapes or scavenged from the oil pans of service-overdue haulers of semi-trailers. I agree that these are not healthy to handle. But then again neither is age-old booze, tobacco or dope.
 
Here's another opinion about handling used oil.

https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads... Tribute/9308CH01_Handling_Used_Motor_Oil.htm

Handling Used Motor Oil

CAUTION
It has been demonstrated that continuous contact with used motor oil can cause skin cancer in laboratory animals. It has also been documented that some substances found to cause cancer in laboratory animals can also cause cancer in humans. Therefore, it is important and prudent to minimize skin contact with used motor oil.

Skin contact with used motor oil can be minimized by following these safety precautions:
DO follow work practices that minimize the amount of skin exposed and the length of time used oil stays on the skin.
DO thoroughly wash off used oil as soon as possible with soap and water.
DO wear long-sleeved shirts and use gloves made of material that oil cannot penetrate.
DO remove and launder oil soaked clothing promptly. Discard oil soaked shoes.
DON'T use kerosene, gasoline or other thinners to wash oil off the skin. They remove the skin's natural oils and can cause dryness or have serious toxic effects.
DON'T over-use waterless hand cleaners. They also remove the skin's protective barriers.
DON'T put oil rags in your pocket. This can cause prolonged skin contact.
 
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