David, do you ever reblade folders? - No.

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David pm sent, I’ll get you a meadowlark 2, thanks I’ll let you know when done.
 
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Looks like we have these models covered. Thank you JoWa JoWa and woodysone woodysone for your kind assistance, and JoWa JoWa for offering your technical knowledge in helping to reverse engineer the blades!
 
This sounds good. I'll probably have the bugout done first,as I believe that it's the more popular of the 2. You can email me at bronco-1961 at hotmail dot com. Looking forward to hearing from you.
 
David Mary said:
My reblades will be progressing at a fairly slow rate, because I have to first get the knife in question in my hands, take the blade out, photograph and measure it down to the fraction of a mm, plot it in CAD, then have it cut and heat treated, and hope when it arrives that I can make it fit and function in the handle. If someone wanted to send me their knives to be used for that purpose, then that will certainly expedite the likelihood of my using any given model for a reblade project. If this is of interest to you, I invite you to email me and we can discuss it in further detail.

Now to directly answer your question: I will happily make a MagnaCut blade for any knife that I know I can make fit and function in its handle.
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David, I would be interested in a Magnacut reblade too if you can do one for a compression lock.
 
A Byrd in the hand: Update

I received the Cara Cara 2 this weekend, it's a nice looking knife, and I can't wait to see what David does with these: ;)
Unfortunately, one of the M2.5x0.45 stainless screws turned out to be cross-threaded into the pin through the backspacer: :confused:

WiF0hOK.jpg


Just spins and spins, no threads left on this guy. Nothing for it but to drill it out...was able to do so without damaging either scale or the backspacer...but no doubt will have to get myself a new screw and a new pin.
With the scales removed, I was able to scan this into AutoCAD and create an overlay for cutting. David Mary David Mary I'll follow up with more details, files and shipping information after this is bead blasted and reassembled.
 
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Oh my, that's troublesome about the stripped screw. I guess I'll have to make sure to use a heat gun when disassembling these. If you contact Spyderco they might be able to send you replacement screws. They did so for me when one of my Pacific Salt 2 screws disappeared.

Everything else looks and sounds good!
 
JoWa said:
A Byrd in the hand: Update

I received the Cara Cara 2 this weekend, it's a nice looking knife, and I can't wait to see what David does with these: ;)

ZyasBWy.jpg


Unfortunately, one of the M2.5x0.45 stainless screws turned out to be cross-threaded into the pin through the backspacer: :confused:

WiF0hOK.jpg


Just spins and spins, no threads left on this guy. Nothing for it but to drill it out...was able to do so without damaging either scale or the backspacer...but no doubt will have to get myself a new screw and a new pin.

H8qUz6b.jpg


With the scales removed, I was able to scan this into AutoCAD and create an overlay for cutting. David Mary David Mary I'll follow up with more details, files and shipping information after this is bead blasted and reassembled.

zgkDrCI.jpg
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I’ve read that loosening screws on the Byrds can be problematic. Not sure if it’s the quality of the screws or if it’s thread locker. Also read that Spyderco doesn’t send replacement Byrd screws.

I’m definitely interested in how these reblades turn out.
 
David Mary said:
Oh my, that's troublesome about the stripped screw. I guess I'll have to make sure to use a heat gun when disassembling these. If you contact Spyderco they might be able to send you replacement screws. They did so for me when one of my Pacific Salt 2 screws disappeared.

Everything else looks and sounds good!
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To clarify, the head of the screw did not strip (due to Loctite, which could have been fixed by heating), the screw was cross-threaded into the binding barrel taking the threads off of the screw. Best guess based on the interior condition of the knife is that this happened at the factory, and not by a previous owner (which I know can be an issue) who might have returned this to DLT as 'new'.

jux t jux t , I did notice that some (but not all) of the screws had a small amount of thread locker on them. This wasn't a problem though as they've got a flat milled on the barrel, and you can get a good purchase with a Wiha T6 Torx.

Not a complaint from me about the quality of the knife. All in all, it's about what I'd expect for the price, and I trust that Spyderco can help me locate a replacement post and screw.
 
I saw a successful disassembly video on YouTube before choosing these Byrds, but I have to admit some trepidation now... Hopefully this won't develop into a theme with them.
 
David, I also have the Ti Cara Cara 2 and the screws are notoriously very soft with plenty of factory loctite. And remember, they are metric.

How about you pick the Endura instead ? Basically the same knife without choild. And - except for S30V, no Endura with American steel on the market. Endura with Cruwear, Magnacut, etc., in fact - it would be the perfect Maxamet knife :)
 
Roland, that is not a bad idea, and great point about the lack of American steel. And yes, now that I am thinking about it, I had a Byrd Tern, and I loved that little knife, but ended up giving it away when I found that it had soft screws (after I stripped one).

I'm still going to go through with the prototyping of these two knives, at least for the sake of the agreement I have made with the owners. Where it goes from there is yet to be seen.
 
How about a run of reblades for a specific model in MagnaCut? Do a poll and see if there is a consensus for a specific model (hopefully one that would be relatively easy to refit) and go from there. I'd say the Delica would be a good start but I can also see that the Delica isn't really a thing for everyone (I actually don't own a Delica as I like the Endura a little better).

I'd be in for one if at all possible and would have no issues sending in a blade for fitting. Should have jumped on your MagnaCut book when it was open.
 
David would you like to try it out on a Ti UKPK? ---- if you do, I will send one to you (and if possible try to get either a LC200N or MagnaCut blade for it)
 
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T.McGee said:
David would you like to try it out on a Ti UKPK? ---- if you do, I will send one to you (and if possible try to get either a LC200N or MagnaCut blade for it)
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I don't see why not. It's starting to look like I might collect a few models, get them all scanned up and then do a run of all folder reblades, first in AEB-L to try them out, and then MagnaCut. Email incoming.

Also, I figured out the solution to the Ti Byrd knives: Once I have working prototypes and know I can bang them out, I'll just make sure customers are sure their their knives can come apart without issue before we make a deal.

And as for the run of different models, I'll just make sure I stick with knives around the 3 mm stock thickness range or below. That way I can do it all in one order to Jarod, and the ones that are a little too thick I can just reduce in thickness on my grinder once I receive them. Wouldn't take too long.

So if anyone else is interested, here are lock types I am most confident in being able to do: Lock backs, axis lock, CBBL,

Moderate confidence: Compression lock

Feeling jaded: liner locks. I probably will put another Resilience in the run just to take another crack at it, but wow I think back to how much time and frustration I spent dialing in the first one, and I have to say that I won't be offering liner locks after all, at least not until I have refined my process and results with them.
 
I have just merged all reblade threads into one to save sub forum clutter.
 
David Mary said:
I don't see why not. It's starting to look like I might collect a few models, get them all scanned up and then do a run of all folder reblades, first in AEB-L to try them out, and then MagnaCut. Email incoming.

Also, I figured out the solution to the Ti Byrd knives: Once I have working prototypes and know I can bang them out, I'll just make sure customers are sure their their knives can come apart without issue before we make a deal.

And as for the run of different models, I'll just make sure I stick with knives around the 3 mm stock thickness range or below. That way I can do it all in one order to Jarod, and the ones that are a little too thick I can just reduce in thickness on my grinder once I receive them. Wouldn't take too long.

So if anyone else is interested, here are lock types I am most confident in being able to do: Lock backs, axis lock, CBBL,

Moderate confidence: Compression lock

Feeling jaded: liner locks. I probably will put another Resilience in the run just to take another crack at it, but wow I think back to how much time and frustration I spent dialing in the first one, and I have to say that I won't be offering liner locks after all, at least not until I have refined my process and results with them.
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Very cool that you’re doing this. Are triad locks out of the question?
 
Triad locks are 100% on the table. I have a Recon 1 coming, and would be open to others as well.
 
David Mary said:
Triad locks are 100% on the table. I have a Recon 1 coming, and would be open to others as well.
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My vote would be for the Air Lite. Near full-height hollow, get rid of the studs (slotted thumbhole), and I think you have a winner.

I can send you the extra Air Lite, I have lying around.
 
I've been looking at that one hard. I'd be happy to do it.
 
Oh, FYI, I don't hollow. FFG, Flatvex, Saber, Sabervex, Convex....
 
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