Recommendation? Dayton belt grinder mod question

R

RVMS

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Sep 23, 2010
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Hi everyone,
I hope I'm posting in the correct place and if I'm not, please let me know. My father gave me a Dayton 3/4hp 2x48 belt grinder that had been sitting in his shop for a few years, still in the box. I realize a 2x72 is the way to go (and that will happen at some point) but this was free and it's sitting in front of me. I've been wanting to try and make some knives so I want to modify the platen and I was hoping I could get some opinions on whether or not what I want to cut off of the machine could compromise its structural integrity to the point where it's dangerous to operate. I'll also be adding a larger tool rest but that will be easy.
I marked the areas I want to cut out with sharpie, I hope it's visible enough in the pictures. Pretty much just want to take the platen down from 2.5" to 2" which will involve cutting out a portion of the sidewall attached to the platen and that's where my concern of losing the integrity lies. I plan on leaving the guard off, I read that could cause issues with getting the wheels dirty and throw off the tracking but I know a few people that have done that without issue as long as you remain diligent in cleaning the machine.
A read a post on a machinist forum where a guy did a mod project on a similar model and instead of cutting the platen itself, he attached an 01 plate with a piece of glass on top of the existing platen (the glass was for absorbing heat so the thinner metal plate underneath didn't warp) and then put cork on the wheels to compensate for the added thickness. Maybe that's a better way to go instead of mine?
Another question I have is in regards to slack belt work for handles/scales. On this particular grinder the platen runs all the way up the front, leaving no room for slack belt work. However, with the guard off the back is wide open. I realize the belt is rotating upwards from back there, and although I don't really want to make it rain g10 and micarta dust all over the place (I am very aware of the need for a quality respirator and this would be done in a garage shop) I was thinking I could create some sort of shield at the top to help control the dust shooting into the air and I figured that slack belt work option would be better than none at all.
Any input would be appreciated, thanks!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/quEFzQkGFF46onAc9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PndMmqF8PmYPRY5L9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dm9ZDgfAGCFUR1998
 
Show us a photo with a belt on the grinder.

Removing 1/4" each side is doable, but you need to do it carefully. The open side can be cut out completely.
You have to be careful cutting material away from the 90° side of the platen assembly not to weaken it. I would grind that side in a radius.

An alternative would be to run 2.5X48" belts on the grinder. They should be readily available.
 
I heavily modified my Craftsman 2x42 as you described with no ill effects. the only mod I performed on my Dayton (same model as yours), was a larger table and a 2x7” piece of pyroceramic glass centered over the existing platen. The Dayton tracks so rock solid smooth I did not want to chance throwing something out of balance that would create belt wobble.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith That's a good idea to grind it down instead of cut it out, I'm just not sure how much I would need to grind to effectively achieve plunge lines and how much material would be left. Even if I did use 2.5" belts, that side wall the platen connects to makes it just over 3" wide and I'd still need to grind it. I'm with you guys, I really don't want to cut it there.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cpYQ8s3GNbr8v2ko7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3tSntoh5NxaGcjuV7

DanF DanF did you have to add anything to the wheels to compensate for the added thickness of the glass? How thick was the glass peice you used? Thank you both for responding!
 
Another thing I was thinking about after I inquired about using the backside of it for slack belt work with the belt rotating upwards, I suppose if the belt bites in anywhere it will launch a sharp blade into the air (in the direction of my face / throat). Probably not the best idea.
 
I ordered the glass platen from high temp tools, 3/16” thick. The 3M tape I used to secure it is roughly a sixteenth of an inch thick, making it around a quarter inch total (JB Weld would be thinner). Other than grinding a radius around the 4 sides of the platen I have done nothing else to date.
These short-belt grinders are fast and are work horses under 220 grit. Once you get over 120 grit, things get hot fast. I typically put a 50 or 60 grit belt on one and a 120 on the other and a 220 on my VS 2x72 (for the finish work). I used the 2x42 for over five years, start to finish. It CAN be done until you can do better. The very large platen on the Dayton is excellent for large kitchen knives with the plunge less ffg.
 
Dan's idea of just attaching a glass platen to the existing one is good. It will allow plunges to be ground. You can do the mods I suggested as well, or just use it as-is with the new platen on it.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Dan's idea of just attaching a glass platen to the existing one is good. It will allow plunges to be ground. You can do the mods I suggested as well, or just use it as-is with the new platen on
@Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith I do feel like grinding that edge down a little as well as utilizing the pyro ceramic glass on top of the existing platen would give me the most desirable results. I have some things to think about, I'll post the end results. Thanks again for your help!
Click to expand...
 
I believe grinding the edge down a bit while also utilizing the pyroceramic glass on the existing platen would give me the most desirable results. I'm going to think on it a bit and I'll post the end result of the project. Thanks again for your help
 
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