DC motor drive recommendations

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Nov 29, 2000
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I brought this up on another thread but was told I needed more info so here's pix and, what is on the motor id plate:

20180918_080942 by rynegold, on Flickr

20180918_081115 by rynegold, on Flickr

The id plate is corroded and hard to read but it says, line for line:

D. = T56H 1057 M-WM
Y(?)TPR = F756HC(Z?)
HP=1.5 1725 RP(M?)
ARM VOLTS=180
" AMP = 7.3
FORM FACTOR= 1.3
INSUL CLASS = F
MAX RA(????) = 40
IML-RA?? =CONT.
MS R? TE?

What I want is to use this for a drive on a new grinder. What are the chances? And will it run at a higher RPM than 1725 or will drive wheel size take care of that?
Found this:
https://www.axcontrol.com/automation/reliance-electric/dc1-drives/DC1-70U

And this... I'm guessing this is the "KBAC" yaw'll were talking about?

These would work yes? The Reliance one is $329 and shipping. Still though is 1725 enough RPM for a grinder motor? I can't even remember what my Bader motor is right now.
 
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1725 is fine. The drive wheel can give you higher speed, and the KBAC drive can over-drive to some amount. a 6" drive wheel would be just about right.
 
do some research and shopping and save $150 or so over the Reliance which is obsolete. can't do bargain hunting for you or i will nasty note from a moderator. there are new 180v 2hp drives on eBay for about $100, $50 or less for enclosure and you are in business. ones in enclosures are about $200
 
Scott, It is fine to post a link to an example of what would be a good drive or motor. It is also OK to post a link to a good supplier. As long as it is a response to a thread question, that is allowed.

What is discouraged is posting a deal spotting thread with nothing but a, "I saw this motor for sale in Kiokuk Craig's list", etc.
 
Thanks, Scott. Those show the range of Ebay items available.

One thing that is often not clearly stated in some sales adds is whether the drive comes with the heat sink. For our purposes, we need the heat sink.

The "build your own" board kits are temptingly cheap, but by the time you add the heat sink, controls, fuse block, NEMA case, power cords, etc. … you usually spend more than the finished unit. You also have no recourse if it isn't working properly. The complete units have been tested, and usually have a guarantee, as well as customer service.

Customer service is a realty valuable part of anything you buy. It has value, and as the old saying goes, "You get what you pay for." Being able to call KB Electronics, or a company that builds their controls all day long is worth a few extra bucks. Many a knifemaker has solved a grinder problem with a call to tech support at KB. Most of the time, the price from KB is the same as from a surplus seller ( as it is with the KBPC-240 shown)
 
the build your own just need to be mounted in a suitable enclosure. i have the 'extras' on hand, so it was no big deal. just a way to save a bit if you feel comfortable doing the extra work. the dart control i bought had a 2 year warranty and the heat sink is built in. The KB units do need a special resistor which cost about $5.
eBay has gotten big enough the many distributors now have an ebay store along with their regular websites.
 
Thanks for posting this thread, and Scott thanks for all your links.
I have a 1.5 horse DC motor I bought several years ago that needs a new controller.
Very helpful.
 
another approach is write up a 'wish' list of stuff that you want or may need in future. research and get part numbers and suppliers. have some money set aside for these items. spend 15 or 20 minutes a day checking ebay and related places for deals. when deal comes up, grab it.
 
Thanks for the links Scott....I sell a lot on ebay and am good w/searches but, I've missed something here in how I searched. I tried to find some 1.5 & 2 hp motors on ebay and came up w/very little; here's the search I used:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC1.A0.H0.X2+hp+motor.TRS1&_nkw=2+hp+motor&_sacat=12576&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=1&_osacat=12576&_odkw=2+hp&Nominal%20Rated%20Input%20Voltage=110%20V&LH_TitleDesc=0

So how/where do you look for such? And I take it the KB unit os for someone (like me) w/o much "extra stuff" laying around would be good for my motor?

edit: Scott; what is the extra/special resistor I need? for the KB?
edit: what do you call the way this motor mounts? This kind of "face" w/the 4 screw holes?
 
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So how/where do you look for such? And I take it the KB unit os for someone (like me) w/o much "extra stuff" laying around would be good for my motor? you need a unit rated for 180V 2Hp, all the ones I have seen need 240Vac. the fully assembled ones will work just fine.

edit: Scott; what is the extra/special resistor I need? for the KB? this is for the bare bones unit not the fully assembled one. if you go to KB site, they will list their part number you need
edit: what do you call the way this motor mounts? This kind of "face" w/the 4 screw holes?
it is called a "C" face. 56C (5/8" shaft) and 143/145TC (7/8" shaft) all have the same bolt pattern that is used by most direct drive grinder makers.
eBay has gotten harder to search. i look for "56C" or "143/145TC", then wade thru listings. I may set a price range to eliminate a bunch. saying 1Hp, you end up with all the fractional motors, same with 2hp, go figure.
 
right Stacy... just not many motors right now I guess. I'm trying to help my cousin w/his first grinder fit out. That's why I'm looking for another motor/controller other than the one I already have.
 
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