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Deformed/abused Sager cruiser eye

Discussion in 'Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum' started by Peck Price, Feb 10, 2019 at 9:38 AM.

  1. Peck Price

    Peck Price

    22
    Sep 28, 2013
    (sorry no pics) I have a Sager cruiser that has some damage to the eye. The top of the eye wall is bent inward toward the other side of the eye. The axe itself is in good shape beyond that. I could hang it as is but I am slightly concerned about getting a good fit. I know there is an older thread detailing this process but my search skills have failed me. I would be most appreciative if someone could post the link to that excellent thread. I have the tools and the skills (I think) to revive this old head. Just want to make sure I am on the right track.
     
    ithinkverydeeply likes this.
  2. ithinkverydeeply

    ithinkverydeeply Gold Member Gold Member

    183
    Dec 17, 2018
    Ooh. Let me piggy-back on here!

    I have a terribly damaged eye on a head that someone got a handle halfway into and tried hammering wedges down into it.
    Filing the the profile would thin and loose too much of the metal. It was suggested to me that I could heat that part of the eye and the walls could be easily moved back into shape.

    Anybody have experience doing this? Is it as easy as it was made to sound?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    A17 and muleman77 like this.
  3. muleman77

    muleman77

    293
    Jan 24, 2015
    A picture would help, but I think we can visualize. Just have to heat it a little right there, and drift it back out to match. An old bolt or something can work as a drift in these cases most of the time.



    As long as you only file off the mushroomed stuff, it wont hurt that eye any. It's actualy going to be slightly thicker the further down you go.
    It's been done countless times, with good results.

    It's pretty beat up, so it will take some work.
     
    Trailsawyer, A17 and ithinkverydeeply like this.
  4. Peck Price

    Peck Price

    22
    Sep 28, 2013
    Thanks Muleman, I can certainly handle drifting the eye. Should I let the eye cool back down naturally?
     
    muleman77 and A17 like this.
  5. Square_peg

    Square_peg

    Feb 1, 2012
    I talked about this before but here is my way again.

    File all the burrs out of the top and bottom of the eye.

    Tie a wet rag around the bit or bits so you don't even have to think about damaging the temper. Heat one side of the eye at a time. Metal bends easiest where it's hottest.

    I work over my open vise jaws. That way you can drive your makeshift drift all the way through if necessary. I use either a riggers drift pin or cold chisels. Both have a nice taper and drive in easy. You can even use a larger chisel in the center of the eye and add a smaller chisel in the narrow end of the eye.

    Heat one side. I use a MAPP gas torch but a plain propane torch would do. Drift it out. Flip it over and drive the drift from the bottom, too. Don't open it too far. Let it cool. You can quench it if you like since you're not getting it up to red heat and it won't harden.

    Hold it with a pair of vise-grips or channellocks if you don't own blacksmith tongs. Give it a minute or 2 with the torch. You want it really hot but you don't need it red hot. If you were to clean a small spot on the eye and take that well past blue temper then you're hot enough. Temper colors run across a piece of clean steel as it heats. The colors can give you an idea of the temperature (and sometimes hardness) of the steel.

    I've done several and they bend out easily.
     
  6. Peck Price

    Peck Price

    22
    Sep 28, 2013
    Thanks Peg, I appreciate you guys taking the time to re-explain. The Sager is slowly working its way up to the top of the projects pile. It is way too nice for me to just let it lay in the shop.
     
    A17 likes this.

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