DEK1

that's really surprising. My A2 FK and LC has spots like that, but none of my users in 3V have much in the way of anything like it

JustinFournier said:
I sent pics to Nathan and he told me to beat it!

Probably should say here that Nathan’s customer service is super good before anyone takes me seriously and thinks Nathan isn’t amazing.

Here are a couple of pretty tame ones after I wiped the surface rust off and lightly sanded the spots with 600 grit. So this is basically the pitting part I can’t remove myself. This is on a FK.

View attachment 905672
View attachment 905673

Most of mine look pretty similar actually. These days I coat every tang before I use the knife, all surfaces under the scales and that does the trick.

Obenaufs LP. Seriously. The wax helps the grip I swear.
Click to expand...
 
JustinFournier said:
Did you pull the handle on that one? I know you’ve pulled a bunch of handles to change them.

If so, are you coating the tang?

Maybe whatever comes out of my hand is more corrosive than most. It’s just surface rust, nothing that’s gokng to cause any issues. But it’s there regardless.
Click to expand...

Yeah I usually coat the tang with Marine TUF-Glide when I remove the scales.
 
Lorien said:
that's really surprising. My A2 FK and LC has spots like that, but none of my users in 3V have much in the way of anything like it
Click to expand...

I hate to reply to myself, but it's an error to differentiate 'users' from my other CPKs since no other CPK I have exists. I stand corrected. By myself

anyway, back on topic;
 
Just when i thought CPK couldn't get any better, they are now going to offer Block's of Micarta, where the individual user can cut it (Micarta Only) to their own specifications with fastener attachment's included! (enough Micarta supplied to make 3 sets of scales)! This will eliminate the need to Re-fresh your micarta scales:thumbsup:
It just keep getting Better! Thanks CPK Team
View attachment 905996
 
JustinFournier said:
Did you ever take the handle off?

Mine in D3V rust under the handle, and the more I use them the more they rust under there. Never a problem on the blade.
Click to expand...
No I never checked under the scales. Next CPK purchase I will and see what it is like.

I wonder why it accumulates under the scales and not on the blade itself :confused:
 
XtianAus said:
No I never checked under the scales. Next CPK purchase I will and see what it is like.

I wonder why it accumulates under the scales and not on the blade itself :confused:
Click to expand...

My guess is because the handle isn’t glued/epoxied and there are expansion rate differentials between the materials, heat cycles allow things to creep in there slowly and get stuck. Maybe the scale bows slightly when it gets warm because tolerances on the pins are so tight. Maybe it’s just the inevitable differences in the flatness of the surfaces.

I’m not a materials scientist though. I am happy to see someone else publicly corroborate my rust experience which I’ve been on about for like two years while mostly everyone has been giving me the :confused:

Here is some more thread jacking.

4C706D54-8481-4BFF-BE99-EA5F776341C0.png
7BB9D38D-0204-4A1A-B32C-98610EB74081.png
 
You/we should probably start a new thread to discuss this so we dont flood this thread :p but i would be interested to talk more about it if that is the case.

Maybe Grenock Grenock could weigh in there too, as he has my old hdfk and maybe has had a look under the scales
 
JustinFournier said:
Did you pull the handle on that one? I know you’ve pulled a bunch of handles to change them.

If so, are you coating the tang?

Maybe whatever comes out of my hand is more corrosive than most. It’s just surface rust, nothing that’s gokng to cause any issues. But it’s there regardless.
Click to expand...

I have the same experience, no rust on the blade, yes under the scales. Same way now I keep them coated, used surf wax at first. That was a bit messy to clean up. I've been trying out Rennaisance Wax of late. Havent been using it long enough to say anything conclusive but so far so good. I want to try out Boelube for the purpose but I can't get it here. Lorien, do you have any experience using the t9? Or anyone else? I'm curious how that 30W works out for you, Chip. Please let us know
 
nandok said:
I have the same experience, no rust on the blade, yes under the scales. Same way now I keep them coated, used surf wax at first. That was a bit messy to clean up. I've been trying out Rennaisance Wax of late. Havent been using it long enough to say anything conclusive but so far so good. I want to try out Boelube for the purpose but I can't get it here. Lorien, do you have any experience using the t9? Or anyone else? I'm curious how that 30W works out for you, Chip. Please let us know
Click to expand...

I think you want to be careful if you're going to put something on the tang, especially if you'll ever use your knife for food. Motor oil is not something I'd recommend. T9 is probably not very good for you in any quantity. That being said it takes only a tiny amount to provide a protective wax barrier. Ren wax, I understand, is food safe and it probably works really well but I've never used it

big benefit to removable scales is that you can maintain your knife more completely, imagine what's going on under a set of pinned scales. I guess you could get your CPK cerakoted if you were really worried about it
 
jackal_727 said:
I can't say enough how excited I am about this. My wish has always been a longer, plus sized edc. This may just be the ticket! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Agreed! Is there any sort of approximate timeline for when they will be available for purchase?
 
Seal 1 clp is the only thing ive used that really keeps the rust away Outside of 3 in 1 oil but Seal 1 Clp is food safe. So its all i use. I tried renwax and stuff still would rust and i tried mineral oil but it attracted dirt
 
I was hoping to have this in Nathan's hands by the Blade Show, still hoping it'll get there in time. Then it's just a matter of when Nate gets a chance to hunt down a unicorn and grind its horn into a fine powder that, left over night, will become the prototype. Hopefully he has plenty of tiger blood on hand to quench it in, and fingers crossed, we'll pass it through a couple of dimensions and have it available for sale last week.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top