Design Suggestions For Guard-ed Knife Sheaths?

J. Keeton

J. Keeton

Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
1,201
Hey guys, I recently just finished up this hidden tang knife. While I greatly enjoyed this build, it's not a design I'm used to working with! I was wondering if yall had some good suggestions on sheath design for a knife like this. Any explanations, pictures, etc would be very helpful!

This is the knife:


This is what I'm thinking of trying (just a less ornate...):





Any suggestions, tips, cautions, etc are welcome!
Cheers,
RBO
 
I just did this one too:

nJA9HXU.jpg


FBw38bH.jpg


Welted all the way around. The top cam acts as a stop and prevents the knife from being pushed too deep into the sheath. The bottom cam provides the retention. While this particular knife doesn't have a guard here is another example of a sash sheath. I'm still only using the welt on the edge side. I get a great fit that way which makes the bowtie decoration.

OdfkOKb.jpg


x5VWJMT.jpg
 
I was thinking of trying something like this one:

I would install the snap right above the welt so the back of the snap won't contact my blade.

I would stitch around the snap and down the welt like normal


*Note that's the only size snap I have on hand... hence it's size... hahaha



-----


Side question, where do yall purchase your stud hardware?
 
Chris 54326 said:
Here's what I did with a Buck knife that had a guard.
Click to expand...

Man I love that! Looks excellent! How did the retention tie attach to the sheath in the back? Where do you buy your studs and how do you cover the back of the stud on the inside of the sheath where it could contact the blade?

-----------------------------------------------

I went ahead and stared working on a prototype. Don't judge my tooling... second time I tried anything and I didn't know what I was doing! Really need to research some patterns... Any suggestions on beginner patterns?

I'll put the snap on, finish the edges, dampen and mold the sheath a little to fit the guard (offset), then treat it. At least that's my plan.





*Obvious errors:
  • tooling pattern is bush league
  • over ran my boarder in one spot on the tooling
  • messed up my groove line towards the tip on the front (and stitch line)
  • made an indention when punching the holes with my press (to the right on the top picture)
  • didn't leave enough room around the snap to stitch all the way around it.
  • should have stitched the loop to the back before gluing on the welt
 
Thanks. Stud was from Tandy. Covered the back of the stud with a thin layer of leather. I buried the lanyard between the back layer and one of the welt layers behind the blade.
 
Chris 54326 said:
Thanks. Stud was from Tandy. Covered the back of the stud with a thin layer of leather. I buried the lanyard between the back layer and one of the welt layers behind the blade.
Click to expand...
What attaches that thin piece of leather? Contact cement? Thanks for the information sir!
 
Looks pretty darn good buddy. And ya listed a quite a few things ya'd of done different already. Maybe skive the end of the belt loop before glueing it down too for a real clean finish next time. On something like that where the rough out side is up ya can still skive it and then sand it to meld in the skive so it is hardly seen.
 
Well the next one will be better, but I think this one is usable. This combo is "for me" anyways so I'll use it for a while as a prototype!

I think I should of left more space in the sheath opening since getting the belt loop to bend around the guard was challenging.

Probably should of dyed the edges too. I used quick/slik and worked up to 320 grit paper, then hand burnished with bee's wax. I can't tell if I like the natural look or if I like it dyed.

Thanks for the help and suggestions! I think I'll try the "stud" next time around.

Cheers,
RBO


*I had oily fingers... and smudged towards the tip during pictures.









 
One tip/trick to get smooth out on the flap, is to tuck the flap back inside the sheath, rather than the back.

Skive the lower part of the flap so it lays flat.

xYhrU7o.jpg


mz0lhzQ.jpg


4v8bX56.jpg
 
I bought a package of Suede Remnants from Tandy. Cut a 1 1/2" square and contact cemented it over the back of the stud. Also used it to line the jaws of the Stitching Pony I made. I've got enough for a whole lot of stuff. Heaven knows how many things I can use this package for.
 
J. Keeton said:
C Chris 54326 for the leather on the inside to cover the stud. Is this around 1-2oz leather you're using? Anything specific? I don't have anything that thin and will need to order some... just making sure I'm on the right path. Cheers sir! Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...

If you don't have any thin leather, take a scrap of your thicker leather, skive it down thin, then glue it on. No need to go buy something special for that little patch.

O.B.
 
I agree, Old Biker. That's what got me into looking into a skiver. I wanted it a uniform thickness and didn't want to do it with just a knife.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top