Designing my jeweler's bench!

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Aug 13, 2002
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I use to work at this sanding station and it is still very useful for a variety of sanding/shaping tasks.

jeweler_bench2.jpg


But I need something more akin to a jeweler's bench for the finer stuff and engraving. Also more ergonomic as I am not getting any younger.:( Here is what I have so far. Not much. I added a back support to my stool and but a few removable elbow rests. I need to figure out the jeweler's pins thingy which is suppose to be quite high I've read and the engraving vise. Anywho, thanks for looking and if you have any ideas or see something that I am doing wrong, feel free to chime in.

jeweler_bench1.jpg
 
What is the channel for? Arm rests?
I would think you would need more overhang on the top if you're going to be sitting. A regular old desk works well.
Jewelers benches are usually rather high-too high for engraving, usually.
Here is my workbench. I use it for knife repairs, knifemaking, jewelry, etc.
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Here are some shots of my engraving bench:

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IMG_1934.jpg


The cheap linoleum on the engraving bench has been replaced with floor tile.
 
Hey Pat!

Here's a pic of the bench I made with a retired woodworker back in the 80s. I made my armrests so they retract (slide in and out). I get kind of distracted when working sometimes and would probably be hurting myself on something like yours, plus there's lots of times I just don't want them there. It looks like mine might be spread out a bit more than yours. Maybe you could rig up channels they could slide in and out of?

I have a couple of holes drill in the front corners of the bench top that I can insert poles in to mount flexible shaft rotary machines and clip on lamps on. I also use a swing arm lamp. The bench pin (or V-block) is removable in that it has a tenon on its back end that slides into a mortise in the bench top front edge, such that the surface of the bench pin is flush to the surface of the bench top. I have made various inserts for different tasks, but use the basic bench pin for almost everything, particularly jeweler's saw, flex shaft and light filing.

I have two holes bored in horizontally either side of the bench pin. They are for inserting either end of ring mandrels. I also have a small thin "false-bottom" board that slides in and out of one of the main drawers for a retractable surface for jeweler's torch work.

I agree with Bill (nice work-spaces Bill!) in that I'd want to be able to get closer to the work via more overhang on the table top edge, or cut away space on the lower shelf so you can get your feet under and saddle your stool up closer. Speaking of stools, I really like one with a good back rest and quick release up and down adjustment. That way you can change your vertical relationship to your work.

The long open drawer in my pic doubles as a lap-pan. It is quite handy to be able to pull it out over your legs while working to catch gold dust and the occasional dropped precious gem. I don't work with that stuff much any more, but it's still a handy to hold the tools you're presently working with for any given project. I also like a raised edge surrounding the other three sides of the bench top to prevent stuff from rolling off.

A lot of this probably doesn't apply to you, but hey, any chance to show off. :D

All the best, Phil

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Very new to me but I am thinking I may try to give the engraving a try. Bill, I was thinking a lower desk would work well for me. How high is yours? Thanks Frank
 
Frank,
It's about 3" higher than a standard desk. You need to figure out your focal length (with or without magnification) and take into account the height of your engraving block. One size doesn't fit all.
I can say that it's much easier to bend over to get closer to your work than if it's too close. The height-adjustible chair is a wonderful thing!
 
Phil-
Your bench is ENTIRELY too clean!
Yours is nice, too!
 
Good start, Pat....but I don't know about those channel arm rests. I would bet you take them off soon. Get a GRS Bench-Mate kit from any jewelry supplier. The tapered base plate screws to the 2X4 across the front of the bench and all the accessories will quickly mount and unmount to that. There is a bench pin, soldering/clamp station, graved ball shelf, vise, ring clamp, and many others. It isn't the cheapest setup, but it is rock solid and makes one space do many tasks. I would be hard pressed to operate daily without mine. Send me an email.
 
Go to Lacywest.com, they are out of Vancouver. It will cost you maybe 40$ more for the kit Stacy recommends but you won't get dinged for import fees or higher shipping from the states. They have pretty much everything you will need. There is another company in Ontario but I forget their name at the moment.
 
Gesswein or Perrin are the suppliers in ontario
My GF is a jeweller, if you like i can have her take pics of her setup for ya

mike
 
I should have mentioned that the arm rests are removable, just a small hook with a slot in the channel bars. As far as width, I put them there roughly but the base plates can be moved quite easily when I figure out the best placement. I will probably make the overhang a little longer. But first I need to get that fixture Stacy mentioned to see what I am working with.

Thanks Bill and Phil for the pictures and tips, a few things I'll definitely use there. But Bill, I thought that my bench was a little messy when I took the pic so you can imagine that when I look at yours I actually start feeling dizzy. ;)

I'd love to see a pic of your GF bench Mike if it's not too much trouble.

Stacy, email on it's way. And Tatoo, thanks for the link, I ordered from them in the past. Not using US suppliers anymore since the last RioGrande/custom fees fiasco. :( That Ontario company would be great if you can find it.
 
Go to Lacywest.com, they are out of Vancouver. It will cost you maybe 40$ more for the kit Stacy recommends but you won't get dinged for import fees or higher shipping from the states. They have pretty much everything you will need. There is another company in Ontario but I forget their name at the moment.

The Toronto location is probably closer than the Vancouver one
http://www.lacytools.ca/
 
Thanks Count! :thumbup:

PS: What is your real name anyway if I may ask? The Count is all and good but a little impersonal for me.
 
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Can't remember exactly but splits rings, jeweler's saw and saw blades.... The stuff that was not made in the States was what cost a fortune in custom fees. I ordered about 150$ worth of stuff and ended up paying just about the same in fees. It was through a private carrier, UPS if I remember right, so it's always worst than USPS.

Thanks for the other link and nice to meet you Sam. :)
 
I found Lacytools after hehe. Patrice I was about to send you a PM and then saw that the Count posted exactly what I was going to. :-D The course looks really good as well.
 
Patrice,
My bench was actually clean that day!
Normally, it has so much stuff on it that it "eats" parts.
 
Made an adjustable base for my engraving vise with parts I had lying around. It is sturdier than it looks. We'll see how it works. You can also see the brackets for the arm rests. Next I'll make a bench pin. I can't afford the kit Stacy suggested yet so I'll start with this. I'll also fix my magnifier/lamp. A microscope would be nice but is WAY out of my price range.

jeweler_bench3.jpg


Thanks for looking.
 
That looks like a nice holder for your engraving ball.

I mounted a ten dollar 2.5" drill press vise to the front of my bench to hold my bench pin. Rock solid and versatile. I'll never go back to just a mortice or one of those stupid little clamp on dealamajigers again. The top of the vise is flush with the benchtop and makes a nice small anvil for jewelry stuff and I drilled a hole behind the vise so long stock can stick through and for hand sanding. When I need a clean space for assembly I clamp a chunk of plywood in the vise and have an instant clear workspace.

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