Desktop CNC??

Taz

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 28, 1999
Messages
2,393
Will these desktop CNC machines be strong enough to slot out a guard in Micarta or G10, usually between 1/4 and 1/2" thick? Would they be able to route scales out of a sheet 3/8" of G10/Micarta?

Most of my blades are 3/32-1/8" stock, so I would be using the smaller cutters and not trying to mill steel.

I want to replace my home made dremel adjustable height stand with something more solid and repeatable!
 
I use a Nextwave Shark and it has no trouble cutting through micarta. You can set the cutting travel speed so thicker or harder materials can be cut at slower speeds to keep the machine from bogging down. I've never had to go below 75% of normal speed, the routers used for the units (Dewalt, Bosch, etc) are quite robust.

Eric
 
Nice! Do you know the model or power specs?

I am looking at the cheap Amazon ones and was wondering about getting a spindle setup/controller, and some linear slide tables or rails, one for depth and one for front to back travel to make up something versus getting a whole CNC setup. I may be able to get one of the $400-$500 amazon units?

Or would I be better off with a handheld router and making a setup to use that, IE put it on linear rails and put a vise on something to adjust the depth to hold the piece below the fixed router?

I made a dremel thing, but it has a lot of play to it still:
OUnY77q.jpg
 
Not knowing the price you were looking at I held off on commenting. I've got one of those 3040 desktop CNC machines, something like this $500 unit on Amazon: B0BFDJ4Z38 It will cut micarta just fine, takes up to 1/4" shank tool bits. I use mostly 1/8" shank. While it would mill the slot in a guard (better if brass) it would only cut a couple thou each pass. The learning curve with GCode to use the machine can be fairly steep... well, not too bad since I've learned enough gcode to use machine.

I've not used my desktop CNC to mill scales, it creates too much dust and I'm not setup to contain the dust inside. I've used my CNC for engraving blades, but now use the laser. To engrave a blade it must be done pre-HT. After HT a diamond tip scribe can scratch the engraving and look "pretty good", but not as good as pre-HT.

I suspect this $3,000 unit would do what you're looking for: B0B7RFZ3R9
 
I think I will continue to do scales with my portaband and just use this for slotting synthetic guards. I typically dont do metal guards at all, so it seems like the cheap ones will work!
 
Will a 500w spindle be enough or should I go to 800w? I am thinking of the Lunyee 3018 Pro Max, Genmitsu 320 ProMax V2 or something similar with an offline controller since I will mostly be making straight cuts around 1/2"-5/8" long to slot the material.

Could I use it to jimp the spine on blades before heat treating? Like take a 3/32" diameter cutter and cut into the spine of the blade or will that take a long time?

I think my wife will come up with all sorts of projects to use it on if I get it, so I am leaning to getting a machine instead of making something just to do the straight slots.

 
Will a 500w spindle be enough or should I go to 800w? I am thinking of the Lunyee 3018 Pro Max, Genmitsu 320 ProMax V2 or something similar with an offline controller since I will mostly be making straight cuts around 1/2"-5/8" long to slot the material.

Could I use it to jimp the spine on blades before heat treating? Like take a 3/32" diameter cutter and cut into the spine of the blade or will that take a long time?

I think my wife will come up with all sorts of projects to use it on if I get it, so I am leaning to getting a machine instead of making something just to do the straight slots.

This is the way... Convince your wife it's needed for HER projects 😂😂💯
 
Taz, what program do you plan to use to run the CNC - I use LinuxCNC since it's free and does all I need.

On jimping the spine of blade that will take a while, but you can surely mark the spots to file to have an even jimp on the blade. On those small desktop CNC's you mentioned it's not the HP of the motor that will give the problem, it's how ridgid the machine is will be the problem.

Are you familiar with a 3D modeling CAD program? That will be needed to create the GCode to run the CNC. You mention an "Off line controller", you're planning to download the file to a standalone CNC without a computer connected?

Please don't be offended by my questions, I'm not at all familiar with your level of experience with coding.
 
No experience coding yet, looking to see what programs are out there! I've been playing around with basic CAD programs I can get free. With the offline controller, you can control the spindle X, Y and Z axis manually without having to do a program it looks like from the video's I have seen, and most of the ones I am looking at looks like they have some manual knobs, too.

The main purpose for the CNC at first will be to slot the guards or ferrules in synthetic material or wood. I should be able to use the offline controller for that and just use the z axis for depth and X or Y axis to cut the groove by moving straight back and forth. The Dremel works pretty well for this, but there is some slop to it with my height adjustment setup and with the threads for the dremel where they go into the aluminum piece. The plastic body of the Dremel at the threads doesn't lend itself to a more rigid mounting system and there is play between the holes in the aluminum and the pipe nipple uprights, so the slots sometimes curve if I push it too hard or too fast since the feed part is manually done by me pushing the vise on the rails.

That's why I was thinking of just getting a spindle setup (MYSWEETY CNC 500V Spindle Motor Kit) , attaching it to linear slide table (YWBL-WH Linear Stage Actuator Manual Sliding Table) for Z axis adjustment, and building a frame (steel tubing probably?) to attach the linear slide table to over a set of linear rails (or another linear slide table) with a drill press vise mounted to the linear rail blocks and using it like I do with my Dremel now by sliding it back and forth and adjusting the height manually with the screw. It would probably be about the same or more cost than the CNC and have less functionality. Looking at 2, 100mm linear slide tables and a 500W spindle with controller and clamp, it's around $400 on Amazon vs $466 for the Genmitsu 320 ProMax V2.

The Genmitsu 320 ProMax V2 I am considering is supposed to be pretty beefy for the price. I like the square linear rails over the round style (I tried both for my Dremel Mill and the round style sucks big time), and the V2 has the square rails and the power supply and stuff are set up nicer and the system is supposed to be pretty rigid from the reviews I have seen. I figure I can use it offline/manually for now to slot guards until I learn it better and may be able to use it for other stuff. I make tuna drop blood knives and do the guards out of 1/8" G10; it would be nice to be able to cut the oval shape of those and the slots on a CNC as a batch so I am not always doing that by hand. I would start with simple projects and work up to other stuff as I learn the 3d modeling stuff and could make up templates and possibly cut files for water jet cutting, too. I want to learn the 3D cad stuff, so I figured getting a machine for it now would be better than building up a stand alone system to do one job and then buying a CNC setup later?


Being able to add a laser to it would be a plus to use nail polish as a resist, burn thru the nailpolish with the laser and then electro etch stuff on the blade.

These are the 3 I am looking at currently. They are all metal constructions, have the square rails on the gantry and the power supply hooked up to the back of the gantry I believe (pre assembled).
Genmitsu 320 ProMax v2
Lunyee 3018 Pro Ultra CNC Machine 500W
AnoleX CNC Router Machine 3030-Evo Pro (has the nicer linear square rails on the bottom platform, but 300W motor and no offline control included)
 
Last edited:
This manual controller you refer to, can you tell it to move .005" in the X axis or .003" in the Y axis? OR, is it just a button you push to make it move in X or Y axis with no control over how far it moves? If that's the case, I'm not sure how well that's going to work. Be sure to keep us posted on your progress and which CNC you order.
 
Its a button. Some have a digital read out that show distance traveled. For the guards, I can scribe lines and go a bit under the lines and hand file the final part.
 
Taz, the offline controller description says "Just Pop the Correct Code Onto the SD Card, and Bam", so it still needs to have some g-code input, no?
I thought at first you are talking about the MPG, which is a manual control for each axis. Some of these machines do seem to have that too.
But in any case, to me for something as simple as a slot, or even a guard with a slot, I would think modelling it with a CAD/CAM software would be much simpler than fiddling with the MPG. And you can already get the advantages of the software generating the right toolpaths and speeds/feeds for your material.
I would not focus on the manual control, personally. Just my two cents.
 
I started playing with Carbide Create today and was able to get some things figured out with vectors and nodes and getting smooth curves. The Anolex one has the Linear Rails vs the Linear rods and should be more stable, so now I am looking at what programs it is compatible with.
 
I use my cnc a lot. It’s what got me into my current knife making phase. These are just handled hidden tang knives. But 100% shaped on a cnc. Tons of good hobby units out there. Mine is 48x32 so really can do larger pieces with it,,,,or very small detailed work. By far my favorite tool in my space.

 
Back
Top