Difference between curly and fiddleback maple???

Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
2,614
I have a batch of curly maple that I'm sending off to be stabilized by wssi. Some pieces have much more figure than others. This got me wondering how I should describe these blocks once they are on a knife.

I know that curly maple is kind of a catch-all, so when does it become fiddle-back maple? What about tiger or flame maple?
 
No difference really at all. It's been said the term 'fiddleback' came from the famous Stradivarius violins, who used curly maple almost exclusively. Hence the term 'fiddleback.

Whether maple, koa or anything else, it's all the same.

You might be able to make more of a case that tiger/flame figure is a bit different than the tight uniform curls of 'fiddleback' figure. But still....it's all the same type of figure more or less.
 
Ive used curly maple for years in axe and hawk handles. bought it from many different places including a lot of muzzleloader makers..They are one in the same, just some folks call it curly, some call it fiddleback..Some will even call it Tiger maple..
Aqua fortis is the best thing ive ever found to bring out the chatoyance.
 
Tiger, fiddleback, or curly maple all refer to exactly the same pattern. Quilted maple, birdseye etc are different...
 
Alright, thanks for the replies gents.

I've seen references online that fiddleback should have tighter curl than, for example, tiger maple. Is this a general rule of just untrue?
 
I think everyone is dead nuts on. It's all curly maple. I'm blessed with a endless supply of it. I think a better term is HIGHLY defined curly maple as it's varied. HIGHLY defined curly maple has a prismatic view as when you view it at one angle and slowly change the angle of view you have totally different scene of the curly maple. You have to see it to believe it. Then you can go on to quilted maples etc! I personally think it's the ultimate wood for handle scales. Problem is as I see it as it takes certain stain to take full advantage of pristmaitc curly maple. Not sure it can be accomplished with stabilized. I used aniline dye and super glue or butcher block finish for knife scales for this reason.
 
Over all, when people say fiddleback or flame or tiger just mean a very dense curl. Everyone has different standards for when curly becomes fiddleback. Personally I call over 8 curls per inch fiddleback.

most of the time "fiddleback" is used to refer to the highest quality curly maple. i have some coming back from k&g in a few weeks, if you like ill send you photos.
 
Last edited:
If you stabilize it, you won't be doing aquafortis treatments. Do look into this as it is definitely the best way to treat curly maple. It's a chemical treatment, not a pigmented stain. You can buy the stuff ready to go from Track of the Wolf. Must be done on raw wood.

N
 
Aqua fortis treated maple looks really good. I just looked up some photos. I'm set on sending this batch out for stabilizing and dying, but I do have another chunk that is drying right now. I may try the aqua fortis on that.
 
Shane, did you get the "curly fiddleback" maple from Andy's Woodbarn? When I have been with Andy he always was using numbers along with the terms. Deep Finish accent, talked fast, with a speech impediment and using numbers that I didn't understand. I had to concentrate so hard to get what he was telling me. "Dees ish shfive eh maple feedlebeck wish shum fur eh feegure un zee fur and. Shtill eh prime shfive plush shlab fur dish shize." After a couple hours I understood much better. I didn't want to leave his place.

I figured out that he was using the numbers to describe how dense the figuring was. When it was getting up to 5 it was highly figured and 1 was mildly figured. He used term figured to describe unusual grain and then fiddleback to describe paralel lines, flame to describe wavy grain that wasn't side by side, and quilting to describe figuring that looked like a quilt. There were many other terms he used to be even more specific.
But generally people will relate lines to fiddleback and poofy look to quilted.
 
Haha that's the guy Randy. Super nice guy, and he loves to talk about wood! I was there for a couple of hours, climbing 30 foot wood piles with him.

The board that I processed was a partially spalted curly maple board. The other board that's still drying, he described as 5A instrument grade. I'm looking forward to the second one!
 
If you stabilize it, you won't be doing aquafortis treatments. Do look into this as it is definitely the best way to treat curly maple. It's a chemical treatment, not a pigmented stain. You can buy the stuff ready to go from Track of the Wolf. Must be done on raw wood.

N

I make Culinary knives and prefer the stabilization of the wood since there is the moisture factor, For BP Rifles & Hawks, Auqa Fortis Sure makes the curls pop!
 
Haha that's the guy Randy. Super nice guy, and he loves to talk about wood! I was there for a couple of hours, climbing 30 foot wood piles with him.

The board that I processed was a partially spalted curly maple board. The other board that's still drying, he described as 5A instrument grade. I'm looking forward to the second one!

The first time I was Andy's my wife's eyes glazed over after an hour and she whispered to me, "Now I know what it feels like to be an ESL student!" She went to the truck and I spent another 2 hours climbing the piles. I wish I could have a sleep over at Andy's! Great guy and pretty nice prices too!

I bought this slab from Andy for $400 and have made a number of flutes with fiddleback maple I bought from him.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3491 - Version 2.jpg
    IMG_3491 - Version 2.jpg
    31.5 KB · Views: 40
  • slab.jpg
    slab.jpg
    68.4 KB · Views: 48
  • slab2.jpg
    slab2.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 45
Hey can you do the aqua fortis treatment and then stabilize it? That treatment really looks beautiful. I want to try it on a coffee table I am planning.

Do you any pics of the boards you got from Andy?
 
Last edited:
Hey can you do the aqua fortis treatment and then stabilize it? That treatment really looks beautiful. I want to try it on a coffee table I am planning.

Do you any pics of the boards you got from Andy?

Well the first board is processed and on the way to Mike from WSSI. I didn't take any pics of that one, but I will take some pics of the finished product. I got 32 blocks out of it!

Here's the second board. It has some cracks in it, but it has some promise. Looks like some nice curl!



 
The difference is that we don't have to be was picky as say Gibson when they are looking for an AAA+++ book matched top slab for Custom Shop Les Paul. We can use small "scrap" pieces that can even appear in an otherwise straight grain plank. Likewise the wood with the BIG flamey stripes as wide as your finger are great for an electric guitar top or acoustic stringed instrument sides and back, but not so much for a little knife handle. Same with woods like black walnut. We can get wonderful looking pieces in knife handle block or scale sizes, but it would be more difficult to find a piece that nice in sizes suitable for a rifle stock or some piece of furniture. As for coloring, if you want it darker and stabilized, get it dyed.
Here are a couple of examples of the "wide" flame" maple that I was talking about.
Recent Custom Shop Gibson Les Paul R9
IMG_1084_1000.jpg
Late 80's Paul Reed Smith guitar with a "10 top"
0-2.jpg
You can see that he wood used on both of these guitars might get lost on something as small as a knife handle, but is "grail wood" for a maple top solid body electric guitar. :thumbup:
Here is an interesting little factoid about dying maple. Both of those newer guitars are dyed to look like what a 1958-59 Gibson cherry sunburst Les Paul would have looked like after a number of years of fading. The guitar would have originally been red around the edges and faded to the lighter color in the middle, hence the name "sunburst" for the finish. The problem is that the red dye faded badly under UV light. You can see on the Gibson how they blended a very faint wash of the red dye around the edge of the top to really give it that faded effect. Gibson had previous only done "brown" sunburst finishes now called tobacco or ice tea burst, so this was a surprise for them. The legend goes that some music stores put these guitars in their front window to show them off and the sun caused them to fade VERY quickly. They changed red dyes in 1960, the last year of the original run for the Les Paul, so the 1960's "bursts" will still have a lot of red, but not the '58 or "59 models. The funny part is if you remove the title plastic plate that surrounds the switch on a '59, it will still be very dark red underneath. Same thing to a great degree on all of the '58's and most of the 59's that had pick guards. Of course, nowadays, the best examples of these "defective" instruments from that late '50's sell for over $500,000!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
The best finish I have seen is treating with very strong tea then fuming with high % ammonia in an enclosed container. It blows away Aqua Fortis and other stains.
 
You will have some really nice wood for handles there. At first I didn't know what to look for when I was looking at rough cut wood at Andy's. He kept giving me trimmings and telling me they were 5A instrument grade figuring but I wasn't seeing it. But I had enough wood for 11 flutes and he only wanted $20 for it. Went home, sanded it up and it was beautiful. Just like he said it would be. I think your board will be great.
 
Back
Top