Different Stropping Compounds on Same Strop

Pima Pants

Pima Pants

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This is my first post in this particular forum. I did search for an answer to my question but didn't find it.

I only have one leather stropping block right now and wondered if I can use the green compound and then the white compound on the same strop, (wiping between each use), or do I need a dedicated strop block for each compound? I'm looking forward to your answers, and thank you in advance.
 
Pima Pants said:
This is my first post in this particular forum. I did search for an answer to my question but didn't find it.

I only have one leather stropping block right now and wondered if I can use the green compound and then the white compound on the same strop, (wiping between each use), or do I need a dedicated strop block for each compound? I'm looking forward to your answers, and thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
Under no circumstances mix sharpening compounds/ pastes/sprays, you even have to wipe the blade clean between each compound if moving from one to another, to avoid cross contamination.
 
Many experienced folks end up using just 1 strop.

I don't use leather anymore (i have several nice leather strop blocks). Never mind, you didn't ask so I'm not going OT.

This is the most relevant\important video on sharpness testing after your leather stropping:

no need to whittle hair.
if your blade caht cut fruit skin (strawberry, tomato, grapes) perpendicularly with its own weight, then it's not sharp! happens after leather stropping (if you're a beginner)
 
Specifically comparing green (chromium oxide) vs. white (aluminum oxide)...

If you plan on leaving the white compound on the strop and NOT going back to green, after the fact, you probably won't notice many issues. The white aluminum oxide is a lot more aggressive at polishing and it'll also likely be 10X or more times as large in actual grit size (commonly in the 5-10 micron range, vs. 0.5-1 micron for good quality green). This means the effect of the white would essentially overwhelm and render moot any effect of the green.

But if you're planning to go back & forth with each compound on the same strop, the white compound and any traces of it left behind will largely dominate the results you get, in the long run.

If you're looking to polish exclusively, I'd likely just stick with the white anyway. More so, if using it on stainless steels. Green can be great on simple carbon steels like 1095, CV, etc. Great for woodworking tools like chisels, etc., when used on a hard backing (wood, mdf, etc.) for example. But mainstream stainless steels respond much better, and much faster, to the white compound.
 
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