Digital Controller For Old Kiln

J

jawilder

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Jun 27, 2006
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I was lucky enough to get a Paragon A88B kiln at auction this weekend for $20. I plugged it into the dryer outlet last night just to see if it works before I wire my shop for 40 Amps ~$$$~ It did heat up pretty well for the little time I had it turned on.

Now that I know it works, I want to use the money I saved on it and put a digital controller on it. I found this thread a while back and Stacy had much to say on it. From what it looks like, Stay recomended something like this kit from that auction site http://www.ebay.com/itm/Programmabl...267?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1ea14b03.

The links on Stacy's thread aren't working and I am not sure exactly what to get. Will the kit I listed work? Do you have any other advice?

I have seen several other digital controllers from Paragon and Orton, but they are all in the $500 range and I see no reason to spend the extra if I can put one together myself.

I am also considering cutting a hole in the lid and hanging the knives from the top like has been suggested (again, by Stacy I think). Has anyone tried this before?

Thanks,
Jason
 
I am running my kilns on PID controllers from auberins.com with SSRs, the simple one temp rig cost me about $100 to build, the programmable was another $30 if I remember correctly

-Page
 
That kit looks nearly the same as the parts I used for my ht oven. I'm sure it will work fine. Just make sure the wires going to the heating coil are well out of the way of the external case and ensure the case has a ground wire attached.
 
OK, so once I put the controller together, how do I connect it to the kiln? On the other controllers I have seen from the manufacturer, there is an outlet that you plug your kiln into and put your kiln on high. Should I do the same for this? I am installing a 40 amp service, so would I need to put a 40 or 50 amp plug onto the PID to connect to the one on the Kiln? Or should I hardwire the PID controller (or SSR) straight to the kiln?

These questions might be easier answered if I had the kit in front of me.

Thanks,
Jason
 
AltonaHunter said:
That kit looks nearly the same as the parts I used for my ht oven. I'm sure it will work fine. Just make sure the wires going to the heating coil are well out of the way of the external case and ensure the case has a ground wire attached.
Click to expand...

I got the kiln with a 50 amp plug with 3 prongs. two for hot and one for neutral. I looked at the electrical diagram and inside the circut panel and don't see anywhere to connect a ground wire.

I have planned on using 8/2 wire from the breaker box to the kiln with the black and white as hot and ground as neutral, since the neutral and ground wire would go connect to the same place in the breaker box... right?

Am I missing something? Should I get 8/3 romex and find a spot to connect the ground wire to the kiln? If I do, then where do I connect it in the breaker box? My box only has a spot for hot and neutral.

Does this all makes sense?
 
The kit is fine for your task.
Wire the SSR to a socket, and plug the kiln into it....or directly connect the power cord wires to the SSR. Set the kiln on HIGH and the SSR will turn it on and off as the PID decides that the kiln needs more or less heat.
The stickys have some of the info needed, but it is really simple to figure out. Email me if you need any further info.

Cutting a hole in the top, and using 1/8" stainless rod as hanger hooks works fine. Place a fire brick(s) over the hole when heating the blades. Use caution when removing blades.
 
OK, I got the kit yesterday from the ebay thread and have more questions than answers. At this point I think I should have gone with a better controller because I can't find ANYTHING on this model of controller. I asked the seller about a wiring diagram and he said it's on the controller. I suppose it is... I can read ancient Greek, but I am lost in this!

100_3824.jpg


100_3825.jpg


100_3826.jpg


Here is the SSR that came with the kit
100_3828.jpg


Now let me see if I understand enough to ask the right questions...

1. I have found several diagrams on how to wire a 110v controller but nothing on how to wire a 220v controller. Would I have to run two SSR's for this? Would I use a SSR for each hot wire and run the neutral directly to the kiln/output plug?

2. I have no idea how to wire this controller. It looks like the thermocouple should be wired into 10 & 11 but that's all I'm sure about.
I assume 1 & 2 connect to the power supply, but it looks like it will only connec to 110v since there is only one L rather than two?

3. Which slots on the controller goes to the SSR?

4. I am also concerned about the wire size. The kiln requires 25.9 Amps so I am wiring my garage for 40 Amps with 8 AWG wire. Wouldn't I need at least 8 AWG wire for everything in this controller as well? I'm not worried about the SSR burning, but I can't see how this little controller can handle that many amps.

Thanks for ANY help,
Jason
 
If you don't understand 220Volt wiring, you should get someone who does to help you. You can fry the PID or yourself in a millisecond .

I will make a longer post with more complete explanations later.
A 220 VAC line has two hot leads/legs and no neutral. The neutral is to tap 110VAC off one leg.
You can wire one leg through a single SSR to the coils, and the other leg to the other end of the coils, but there are some safety issues that need to be considered. Two SSRs is safer.
 
I feel fairly confident working with 220, or at least I think I do. I have already wired my shop with 220 for my grinder this kiln without any problems. I don't want to wire any of this together until I am absolutely certain that I know what I'm doing.

The 220 has 3 wires. I supposed the 3rd was neutral since it connects to the neutral/ground bar in the box. I suppose it's called a ground when used with 220?

There are four sets of coils in the kiln with two temp controlled zones. Each zone has a static infinate switch that will be turned onto high. So I won't be wiring directly to the coils, I'll be putting a 50A plug on the controller to plug the kiln into... or at least that's my plan. I don't know if it will help any, but here is the wiring diagram for my kiln. I have the B-88B, which is closest to the one on the top right (A-88B). The only difference is that my kiln only has a spot for neutral and no dedicated spot to attach a ground. http://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/A82B_A823B_A81B_A88B_AA8B_AA8B3B_WD_PL.pdf

I found this schematic online and think it is the closest I have seen so far
controller220v.gif


Thanks for taking the time to help.
Jason
 
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220 has TWO wires. 220 with a tap for 110 has three.

To get 220, you take the two leads from the transformer at the street and connect across them. If you want 110,you connect to the center tap of that transformer and either leg of the transformer. The center tap is also refferenced to ground.
On an appliance plug/socket, there will often be a ground lug, and sometimes a neutral . The ground is for safety, and the neutral is to allow 110 to be used by the device ( to run the PID in this case) ,as well as the 220 for the higher current/voltage draw load of the device ( heating coils inthis case).

The wiring of your PID is different from the diagram.
1 and 2 are the 110VAC power to the PID
10 and 11 are the TC from the oven ( 9,10,11 if using an RTD TC)
3 and 5 appear to be the SSR output
there is no need for that relay...a SPST switch will turn the PID on and off.
 
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So would that mean that one 110 leg goes straight to the kiln and the other 110 leg along with a neutral goes through the PID/SSR to complete the 220 to the kiln? And that the neutral does not go past the PID?
 
NO !

Wire it exactly as the diagram, only replace the relay with a SPST switch.

Also, while the socket as shown works fine, I prefer a socket with a neutral and a ground. I know they arevthe same, but is good wiring practice.The neutral would go to terminal #2 on your PID.
 
Thanks for your help!

Now if I hook a computer fan to the project box, how could it be connected using this power supply? I understand that most PC fans are AC so they might need their own power supply. If I got an AC fan, I suppose I could connect it to the Neutral after coming into the box and to the Hot after it leaves the switch?
 
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