Disappointed In Ontario Blackbird SK-5

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Dec 28, 2013
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8
Hi all,

After checking out a lot of glowing reviews (print & video), I bought an Ontario Blackbird SK-5. I've had it for over a year. During that time, I've given it a thorough evaluation (from fine carving, to batoning wood to chopping to fire starting). Like anything else, there's good & bad. But at the end of the day, I'm disappointed with the Blackbird.

As far as fit & finish, I have no complaints. It's a very well made knife.

Using the SK-5 with a ferro rod is very good. The spine is a perfect 90 degrees and it bites into the ferro rod without any problem.

When batoning wood, the knife performed adequately.

Carving and whittling...that's where the knife really shit the bed. The blade has a flat grind, and does not do a good job AT ALL at biting into the wood. In my entire collection, I don't have any knives which do a worse job. And it's not because the edge is dull. It came from the factory very sharp. I also use my Work Sharp sharpener as well as with my sharpening stones. But when it comes to carving wood, notching, etc..., this knife sucks. Now conversely, the knife which does the best job at this is my Mora Bushcraft Black (or any of my other Moras come to think of it). Perhaps the scandi grind lends itself well to those kinds of tasks... I don't know. On the other hand, my ESEE Izula 2 (which also has a flat grind) does a MUCH better job at carving, whittling, notching, etc..

The poor job this knife does with simple carving tasks just ruins my enthusiasm for the SK-5. It sits in a drawer because I just can't get along with it in the field. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this same thing or if it's just me.



Doc
 
Wow, sorry to hear. I almost bought the SK5 too. I have the Mora Bushcraft Black and love it.
 
Sounds like the edge could benefit from rounding the "shoulders", the sharp corner separating the blade from the edge!

Regards
Mikael
 
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I should note that I also have a BK-2, the before mentioned Mora Bushcraft Black, a Mora Classic 2, the Mora 2/0, ESEE Izula 2, Mora 39, Jeff White Bush 2, and a bunch of folders (Buck, Benchmade, SOG, etc..). Also used to have a Gerber Bear Grylls, but sold it (didn't care for the 1/2 serrated edge).

The Ontario is a VERY well made knife. It just doesn't carve well and that's kind of a deal breaker for me. And I'm trying to wrap my head around why it's just not performing. Well respected people in the survival & bushcraft communities have raved about it.

Mikael, I'm not sure how to technically do what you're suggesting. I have some sharpening stones I've had for 30+ years - and use them with some Buck honing oil for a hair splitting edge. I also have the Work Sharp electric sharpener (which I really dig, btw).


Thanks,



Doc
 
Maybe try sharpening it at a different angle? It's weird that it won't carve and whittle even while being really sharp. :confused:

Sometimes you just don't love a new knife (or gun in my case) even when it's supposed to be awesome. I'm sure there is something out there that will work better for you.
 
I should note that I also have a BK-2, the before mentioned Mora Bushcraft Black, a Mora Classic 2, the Mora 2/0, ESEE Izula 2, Mora 39, Jeff White Bush 2, and a bunch of folders (Buck, Benchmade, SOG, etc..). Also used to have a Gerber Bear Grylls, but sold it (didn't care for the 1/2 serrated edge).

The Ontario is a VERY well made knife. It just doesn't carve well and that's kind of a deal breaker for me. And I'm trying to wrap my head around why it's just not performing. Well respected people in the survival & bushcraft communities have raved about it.

Mikael, I'm not sure how to technically do what you're suggesting. I have some sharpening stones I've had for 30+ years - and use them with some Buck honing oil for a hair splitting edge. I also have the Work Sharp electric sharpener (which I really dig, btw).



Thanks,



Doc

Doc, as the edge seems to be sharp, You dont need to touch the edge!
Just above the edge, there's an angle where the flat part of the blade starts.
Smooth the tip of this angle and I think You will notice an increase in cutting performance on wood.

What method You use doesn't matter, as long as the blade doesn't go hot!

I'm not familiar with the Work Sharp, but I do use a beltsander myself, but very carfully not to ruin the temper of the edge.
The stone is a safer bet than the Work Sharp, but if You remove any blade holders/jigs and grind freehanded with a featherlight touch, it's easier to avoid overheating.

I have done this to many of my Mora's and especially the thickedged Mora Black, benefits from knocking off the "shoulders".


Regards
Mikael
 
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