Dive knife

Joined
Oct 10, 2011
Messages
395
Gents,
looking for a new dive knife and i want to use one of my BKTs of course(or an excuse to get a new one)...was thinking of a modded 7 or 2 but maybe grab a 10 or 16 and do a couple mods...worried bout the steel in the water but would be cleaned and oiled after each use. the issue of scales would need thinking out too...wood?-no..micarta?maybe..have to be removed after each use and dried??probably..what thinks the rogues gallery?
 
Well, the original 3 was called the "DivTul" and then "DivTool". ;)

Of the tweeners, the 15 would probably be better.

I'd take the 10 over the 7.



hmmm, why is my becker knife and number sig not on...dammit
Probably need at least a "Basic" Paid Subscription.
 
Being a diver for 40+ years with 8000+ logged dives, I would NOT use any current Becker as a dive knife. If I ABSOLUTELY HAD to use a Becker, it would be a 3 - capable of cutting, wedging, prying. I would leave it coated and leave it with the factory scales. Thorough washing, drying and oiling after each use. whether fresh or salt water would be MANDATORY. An early SS Becker DivTul (aka BK3) would be the best Becker to use for diving.

A good dive knife (IMNSHO) should be have the following features:::
1- a blunted chisel point (or at most, fairly rounded) stainless steel blade,
2 - 3" to 4" long,
3 - minimum 1/8", maximum 3/16" thick
4 - removable plastic/grivory handles
5 - plastic sheath.

The blade should be double-edged - plain on one side and serrated on the other and chisel/blunt end.

The dive knives of the 50s to 70s were essentially Bowie knives. 7" to 8" clip points with a partially serrated single edge. Heavy for a knife, at about 1 pound. Strap one of those puppies on with out a wet suit and you could remove a significant amount of your weights - back in the early 70s, I only needed 4 lb of lead for my no wetsuit weight belt. Add the knife and I was over weighted.

Sharp points on a dive knife in low vis or confined spaces are punctures and cuts waiting to happen (skin, BC, hoses).

My current dive gear set up included 2 pair of trauma shears vest mounted and 2 small (3" blade) blunt tip knives, also vest mounted.

I have 40+ dives knives of various brands, styles and sizes that I have accumulated/tried/rejected/put in my dive knife collection box. I haven't dove with a large (5"+) knife in 20 years.
 
Being a diver for 40+ years with 8000+ logged dives, I would NOT use any current Becker as a dive knife.

I agree. I don't dive, but I have somewhat similar criteria for a kayak knife. This is what stays on my PFD.

P1020554.jpg


P1020553.jpg


You might could press a D2 BK24 into service as a dive knife, but it's still not ideal.
 
Im getting the Spiderco salt Talsman to bring surfing. Its small lightweight and rust proof. They make a fixed blade too for diving.
 
More about my current preference in dive knives.

I have also gone from expensive dive knives to inexpensive ones. I don't care about having some golly-gee-whiz-bang super stainless steel for a dive knife. You don't need a knife that keeps an edge forever and a day. If you HAVE to use a knife while diving, it just has to be sharp RIGHT NOW, to cut whatever is tangling you up.

Most inexpensive dive knives are made with 440A, 440C or 420J stainless steels. Many people poo-poo these steels as not "good steel". I call BS on that. With the proper heat treatment, 440A and 440C and 420J can perform admirably. Will it maintain an edge forever? No. But then that is not it's job. The dive knife's job is to cut rope, line, nets, kelp, whatever you are entangled in. And then it is easy to re-sharpen before the next dive, if required. A razor shaving sharp dive knife, IMO, is overkill. Sharp, yes. Razor sharp, no. Less like to cut yourself accidentally. For whatever the physiological reason, cuts underwater do not hurt as much, unless the water is contaminated in some manner. Cuts in saltwater = chum. Chum is bad while diving in saltwater.

The macho-man reason of having big knife to defend yourself in the event of a shark attack is so bogus that it's ridiculous. You, the diver, have one, count it, one billy-bad-ass Bowie knife, in a non-natural environment, encumbered with 80 lbs of equipment. A SMALL Great White has 300+ sharp little cutters powered by jaws capable of exerting 669 PSI of pressure, has millions of years of evolutionary specialization in chomping on things in the water. Who's gonna win?? Ain't gonna be billy-bad-ass, that's for sure. Most people attacked by sharks never saw the shark coming. A diver looking straight ahead through a 18 square inch tunnel won't have a clue.

Will they corrode? Yes, eventually, especially if not properly washed after EVERY use. But you know what? So will the high dollar stainless steels. If you leave'm wet, corrosion-city.

So why do I prefer inexpensive knives? Real simple. You loose them. They get dropped and sink. The retaining strap breaks and they sink. They get tangled on stuff if not kept close and you may loose control of it and it sinks. If the water is deeper than you can go at that time, which due to air supply may only be 15 feet, or it may be you're over the Marianas Trench, either way, bye-bye knife. Plus, for some unknown stupid marketing reason, most dive knives come in BLACK sheaths with black handles. Guess what's damn near impossible to see underwater?? Yep, black anything on the bottom is invisible. Blue and red isn't much better.

My preferred color of knife (and other dive equipment) is yellow. Easily seen, both in the water and on shore. If I'm lying on the bottom hurt, I want searchers to be able to find my fuzzy butt.

My current duty knives are yellow handled McNett Saturna Dive & Kayak knives. I caught'em on sale on fleabay for about $20@ 3 years ago. They're more expensive than that now, but they work fine. They also come with black handles for the adventurous.
McNett Saturna Dive Knife.jpg

I have lost over 20 knives over my years of diving. After loosing my second $50 dive knife, I went to inexpensive. I readily admit that a lot of my diving is in conditions most other folks would avoid like the plague, but then I was a search and recovery diver for the county sheriff's office for 20+ years - night dives, low vis/no vis situations crawling around on the bottom looking for shell casings, jewelry, dead bodies, whatever was lost, missing or stolen and supposed to be in the body of water.

The worst scene was looking for a .380 in a stock pond choked with moss, with so much crap, crud and stuff in the water you couldn't see your dive light while it was on if you put it up to your mask. The pond was in a cow pasture down hill from an auto recycling yard. We almost lost a diver who swam head first into a washing machine. After we couldn't find the gun, one of the deputies threw a 9mm round out into the pond. We went out and found it. The detectives turned to the suspect and basically told him "OK A-hole, it's not here. Where did you really put it?" He never dreamed that we could prove the gun wasn't in the pond.
 
i'd go cheap, and stainless, and have at least 3 because "tangles"...

also i'd probably double up on the lanyard with a breakaway thingy, so if the knife fell out, it wouldn't go anywhere unless i gave a "decent yank" but that's me

i MIGHT have one pry bar type of thing on me, hey, you can buy a Ti prybar for just that purpose

but most divers these days aren't doing wrecks, or salvage, or ... they're just swimming, keep on swimming

dory divers :D
 
Wouldn't recommend 1095CV for a dive knife....hell, I have all I can do to keep my Beckers from corroding living here a 100 yards from salt water. My Kayaking knife is a Gerber Clip - Stainless and a good secure sheath FWIW...and it still has a couple spots of corrosion.

9617237077_8b2b318a74_b.jpg


.....sometimes, it's just better to get a knife for your specific needs rather than trying to fit a knife (even a Becker) into those parameters, IMO.
 
I didn't want to be the first to say it, but I wasn't sure how 1095 steel could make a good dive knife without a lot of extra maintenance. I'm glad someone with real experience chimed in!
 
this is why i post here....i figured someone with dive experiance would help out...we have been snorkiling for years but are just now getting scuba certified for our vacation in the fall.....never carried a knife but have found a need for it so im gonna check out the Mcnett Saturna stuff, thanks so much gang...I do some smithing but nevere done stainless, might see what i can shape up..
 
Figured I'd show too just for giggles. I have had this for a long time and there was even a period where I carried it as a belt knife. Older Oceanic Dive knife, Japanese made. Great and solid knife. Locking sheath, Full flat ground on one side, flat ground on the other with a swedge for the serrations, even the clip is sharpened :eek: Removable handles, and probably some sort of 400+ series stainless. However, it sharpens up great and holds it perfectly fine. If I remember correctly I found it at a flea market as a kid. Used to have a strap system for lashing to a leg etc. Been a great knife.



If I had to look for a dive knife now I'd probably be looking at something from spyderco's salt series or benchmades like Guyons got there.

Have fun!
 
Fly - the benchmades and spydercos are great knives, BUT they are too expensive in my way of thinking with respective to loosing them. I can buy and loose 3 cheapies for the price of 1 of the spydies or 4 for a benchmade.

Also, the salts are folders and folders are bad news for rescue work or for diving or kayaking - wearing heavy work gloves or stiff neoprene dive gloves make folders very difficult to open and close. Thumb studs or spydie holes just won't work as easily when gloves are in the way. Plus folders mean locks to manipulate, pivot pins corrode faster due to wear scratches and inherent difficulties in completely getting all salt/grime out of them. If you're kayaking/canoeing and you need a knife in an emergency situation (to cut yourself free from an entanglement, not a normal, I need to cut this package open setting), the extra time and thought processes in opening a folder MAY (not will) cause issues.

I was kayaking down a small river once and like a dumbass went under a tree overhanging the water. A damn grape vine hung on a cleat and nearly dumped me. Had I needed to open a folder, I might not have gotten the vine slashed before hydraulics tumped me over.
 
I used to use a big nice dive knife as well... Until I heard of D.I.R. It's a dive system developed in Florida Cave diving and adapted to open water diving/wreck diving/technical diving.

All you need is a serrated Betty Crocker steak knife broken off w/ a square tip at the end (so you don't stab yourself) about 2" long. The only thing you'll ever need it for is a line-cutter, so why carry something bigger? When it gets rusty, throw it away and make another. The sheath is a folded over piece of 2" webbing. Costs about $7, you don't care if you lose it or if it gets rusty (make another).

I know it sounds crazy, but google DIR diving and read about the system, method and equipment. It makes a lot of sense!
 
i been searching all the dive knives you guys mentioned....did find a Victory dive knife, made in new zealand....very cool but kinda pricey...would hate to loose an 80.00 knife...think i will grab or make a cheapie with good lanyards..
 
Gerber River Shorty, chisel tip, yellow handle. Spyderco Harpy on a lanyard clipped to the inside of my BC pocket.
 
I know this is an older thread but just thought I'd give my two? First my dive background. I run a Spearfishing charter boat. I'm in the water all day everyday. With the toothy critters someone mentioned above. We have had our "disagreements" over who the fish on my stringer belong too? I've yet to lose that argument. 😉 not once have I used a dive knife to defend myself from a shark. As someone said above its pointless. Pardon the pun. I agree about having a blunt tip. Unless your a spearfisherman? I have to have a pointed blade for finishing off some fish who refuse to go quietly.

I currently carry a titanium knife made by some company overseas. Not the best quality but it has yet to show a spot of rust. And it was about $30. Promate is the brand. Look on Amazon or eBay. Mine is yellow. Just like the gentleman said above I've found it to be the best color. It comes in either blunt or pointed. Funny that someone mentioned the cheap kitchen knives.

I used to run crew boats in the Gulf of Mexico. We had a diver come to the dock to remove a rope from our wheels. Right before getting in the water he handed me a cheap bread knife about 8" long still in the package. He said when I ask for it just hand it to me in the package. He later told me he orders them a case at a time. He gets them for .50 cents. That way if he loses them oh well? Pretty sharp thinking. 😉
 
Back
Top