jeffsenpai
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,069
Hi all,
I've noticed something of a trend in my knife collection, and it is that I cannot stand fingerprints on my satin knife blades. So I went in search of a way of coating folding knife blades that would be somewhat better than Krylon. Enter Brownell's Aluma-hyde II. This is a coating that is somewhat similar to a Duracoat, but comes in a ready-to-use aerosol can. Having used this coating on my shotgun, I know that is relatively durable, and can look good provided that you do the proper prep work. And plus, summer is the time of year to use it since HEAT helps the curing process.
So as a test I needed a donor knife and I chose two - Chinese cheapies - the Ganzo G714, and the Enlan EL-04. This thread will only cover the EL-04. Perhaps I will make another thread or post later about what not to do, mistakes I made on the Ganzo G714.
Enter the test subject:
The Enlan EL-04, an axis lock knife that has identical handles to the Spyderco Manix 2; Combining two great designs from two different knife companies.
I chose to use Matte Black color on the blade and pocket clip, for that tactical look
Disassembly was easy with a T6,T8 and specialty "triangle hole" wrench. Luckily none of the hardware stripped out.
You will notice the extra nozzles for the aerosol can, these are absolutely necessary with Alumahyde II, as the standard nozzle will instantly clog no matter how much you shake the can. the clean out nozzles are a life saver when this happens.
Cleaned the parts liberally with mineral spirits to remove any residue and left to dry.
I then put the blade in the oven at 200 degrees for ten minutes, just to heat up the steel; heat really helps adhesion with Alumahyde II. I did not do this to the pocket clip due to absent mindedness.
I then hung the parts and sprayed several light coats only minutes apart, drying with a blow dryer between each application. I recommend you do this outside or inside a spray cabinet to contain the overspray mess. (wish I had taken pics of this process)
When you feel the coverage is complete, then comes the curing process; a looongg wait. Some recommend waiting up to a month to allow the Aluma hyde II to completely cure and harden; Some put the coated pieces into the oven at low temperature. I did the best of both worlds - I left the coated pieces in the hot car parked out in the sun for several days, then hung to cure for about a week.
Result:
Aluma-hyde II is a thick coating, you can see the texture here:
The pocket clip will be the test of wear and tear:
After resharpening (the coating took more than a few passes on the stone to completely remove):
EL-04, tacticalized:
there is some residue on the blade here, dust from the sharpening stone.
And just for giggles, here is my shotgun I Aluma-hyded over a year ago with OD Green:
Hope this was somewhat informative. After this process, I don't think I will do it to higher valued knives, as trying to remove this stuff if I mess up or change my mind would be a nightmare
I've noticed something of a trend in my knife collection, and it is that I cannot stand fingerprints on my satin knife blades. So I went in search of a way of coating folding knife blades that would be somewhat better than Krylon. Enter Brownell's Aluma-hyde II. This is a coating that is somewhat similar to a Duracoat, but comes in a ready-to-use aerosol can. Having used this coating on my shotgun, I know that is relatively durable, and can look good provided that you do the proper prep work. And plus, summer is the time of year to use it since HEAT helps the curing process.
So as a test I needed a donor knife and I chose two - Chinese cheapies - the Ganzo G714, and the Enlan EL-04. This thread will only cover the EL-04. Perhaps I will make another thread or post later about what not to do, mistakes I made on the Ganzo G714.
Enter the test subject:
The Enlan EL-04, an axis lock knife that has identical handles to the Spyderco Manix 2; Combining two great designs from two different knife companies.
I chose to use Matte Black color on the blade and pocket clip, for that tactical look
Disassembly was easy with a T6,T8 and specialty "triangle hole" wrench. Luckily none of the hardware stripped out.
You will notice the extra nozzles for the aerosol can, these are absolutely necessary with Alumahyde II, as the standard nozzle will instantly clog no matter how much you shake the can. the clean out nozzles are a life saver when this happens.
Cleaned the parts liberally with mineral spirits to remove any residue and left to dry.
I then put the blade in the oven at 200 degrees for ten minutes, just to heat up the steel; heat really helps adhesion with Alumahyde II. I did not do this to the pocket clip due to absent mindedness.
I then hung the parts and sprayed several light coats only minutes apart, drying with a blow dryer between each application. I recommend you do this outside or inside a spray cabinet to contain the overspray mess. (wish I had taken pics of this process)
When you feel the coverage is complete, then comes the curing process; a looongg wait. Some recommend waiting up to a month to allow the Aluma hyde II to completely cure and harden; Some put the coated pieces into the oven at low temperature. I did the best of both worlds - I left the coated pieces in the hot car parked out in the sun for several days, then hung to cure for about a week.
Result:
Aluma-hyde II is a thick coating, you can see the texture here:
The pocket clip will be the test of wear and tear:
After resharpening (the coating took more than a few passes on the stone to completely remove):
EL-04, tacticalized:
there is some residue on the blade here, dust from the sharpening stone.
And just for giggles, here is my shotgun I Aluma-hyded over a year ago with OD Green:
Hope this was somewhat informative. After this process, I don't think I will do it to higher valued knives, as trying to remove this stuff if I mess up or change my mind would be a nightmare
