DIY Jimping Using Hand Tools

A

AlucardII

Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
10
Hi All,

I’m looking for a recommendation on good tools I can use to add jimping and other marks to some of my knives.

From what I saw a Swiss Grobet 20 line per inch checkering file was the tool people used. A Bruce Bump carbide faced file guide was also highly recommended.

I just do this for fun. I can understand getting a higher quality checkered file, but are there more cost efficient alternatives to a $250 file guide for DIYR like myself?

Also, if you recommend any good tutorials on how to do this and other handy fixits I’m receptive to your advice.

Thank you in advance for taking the time to read my post.


Best regards,
Matthew
 
Assuming that you are making the knife and adding jimping before heat treat, then you should post in Shop Talk.
Jimping can serve a purpose, but looks terrible if not perfect. A file guide helps you with your alignment. I have done jimping before I owned a file guide. You can simply try to hold the checkering file as straight as possible, maybe you can pull it off. You can clamp some material to the blade to guide you. The carbide guide is nice because it resists wear.
 
I use a 20 LPI(lines/inch) checkering file.
A file guide can be helpfull but a normal steel square will do.
I go about half the depth I want with a checkering file and use needle files after that.
To get nice 90-degree "jimps" file as often left to right as right to left.

This is what I do, they are for the index finger and are also rounded:

IMG-20210802-124117.jpg
 
I've jimped plenty of knives and not once have I ever used a file guide. That said, there are cheaper file guides out there than the Bump guide. In all honesty, you could even use your vise jaws or a set of 1-2-3 blocks as a file guide if it came down to it. Jantz sells a hardened guide for about $50 if I'm not mistaken.
 
chainsaw files are cheap and come in several different diameters. The spine can be drawn over with a marker and then you can scribe lines perpendicular to the spine with a pin or scribe or whatever, using a cheap machinist's square to make sure everything is straight. I bought a checkering file recently for the price of about 15 chainsaw files, and it's cool I don't regret it but if you want to save some money you can still get to where you want to go without it. Here's a picture of jimping done with a chainsaw file;
xcrcohZ.jpg
 
A couple low price sets of needle files from Amazon, eBay, or HF will do the job. Get a couple sets because the ones you use the most will wear fast. Take the ones you don't use and reshape them into safe side files for getting in thin areas or to make specific shaped cuts. A set of mini-needle files is also useful for some very fine work.
If wanting the best file available for the job, use Valtitan needle files. They are expensive, but very hard (Rc72). They also break easier is not used carefully.

TIPS:
Sand the spine smooth and flat to 120 grit. This prevents the files from sliding around.
Mark the cuts/pattern with a fine tip sharpie
Use a jewelers saw to make light cuts on the drawn lines.
Use the saw cuts to make the deeper and precise file marks.
Tilting and turning the files as you make the stroke will slape and curve the cuts, as is done for vine and thorn pattern.
If doing long filework most of the way down the spine, reduce the space between the cuts as the spine thickness reduces. This is a very professional look. Drawing it with a sharpie is essential in this style.
 
Another tip, on a hardened blade you can use a dremmel with cutting disk to mark and a diamond bur to make the jimping. It helps if you at least score the lines before the HT with a hacksaw at 90 degrees. Diamond burs go down to 1-2mm in diameter and leave a nice finish once the initial grit has been stripped off. I am still to cheap to buy a checkering file, but is definitely on the buy list.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top