DMT Credit Card Sharpeners - First Impressions (video)

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Jul 13, 2011
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I bought the DMT Credit Card Sharpener 3-pack (coarse, fine, x-fine) and made a field kit out of the fine and x-fine and a piece of Fellowes mouse pad backing. I plan to add a DLT field strop loaded with green compound later. The two credit card sharpeners and the piece of mouse pad (together with the Sil-Nyl bag I put them in) weigh 3.85 ounces. I used these stones for the first time today, sharpening the badly damaged edge of a friend's J.A. Henckels paring knife, doing all reprofiling and repair with the fine (600 mesh, 25 micron), moving on to the x-fine (120 mesh, 9 micron), and finishing on a Knives Plus Strop Block. Hope you enjoy.


[youtube]Wg7jt3syy3M[/youtube]
 
Good video, a bit light on the editing, but we're sharpeners not editors. :)

Green compound changed my life.... Then 25,000 grit tapes changed it again!

I like the mouse pad backing idea, I do similar for my bench stone, set it on something narrow and use both sides with the stone lifted up. Not really applicable to a pocket setup.
 
I purchased just the Fine one sometime back in April, wanting to have a way to touch up my EDC wherever I went--friends houses, relatives, that kind of thing. I pretty quickly found that it worked really well for sharpening people's neglected blades. I couldn't really tell in the video how bad that edge was, but it didn't look all that severe to me. Last time I was at my friend Claudia's, I sharpened I think 5 different cutco knives, a couple that were even more than 7" and they all had edges that looked similar. I didn't really bother to get them as sharp as you did in the video, just slicing regular notebook paper, but it didn't really take me too long. Started when she started cooking dinner and was almost done when it was ready.

I really like the idea of using a mouse-pad for a non-slip surface. You commented that one side wasn't as sticky as the other... Perhaps you could cut out another layer with the same dimension, and glue the two less-sticky sides together. Then you'll have the same grip strength for the counter top and for the back of the DMT hone, plus it will raise it up a little bit more.

I use mine in a pretty odd way, maybe I'll take a picture if I'm feeling like it later but basically I just hold the edge of the hone with three fingers on the surface, and my thumb backing and pinching the hone in place on the underside. Then I just hold it there with my fingers and sharpen by pulling the blade toward me so I don't have any fingers in the way to cut. It takes a couple of tries to get use to, but I've gotten so use to it that I actually prefer this over using my benchstone as I can use both hands to manipulate both the hone and the knife blade, orienting and moving each one as needed, so I can get superior angle control than I could with a benchstone. Might be a useful tip though in case you're ever in a place where you can't set it down on a flat surface.

Also, you can get edges VERY sharp with just the Fine hone if you lighten up on the pressure to sub-knife weight levels near the end. I mean just barely touching, to the point where you can just barely feel the grit engaging the edge and can hear it even less. I do this for just a few minutes side-to-side after I get a knife shaving, paper-push-cutting sharp on it and it will take it right up to hair whittling. I strop on MDF loaded with CrO after that and it will tree top. Of course I'm using really fine grained steels ( 1095, 14C28N ) and 30-35 degree bevels. But I've been carrying just the one as the "minimalist" approach and I'm very surprised at what it's capable of.

When you were talking about the surface not being flat, is that just because the swarf would concentrate in one location more than the others? I also noticed that before the break in, the swarf would have kind of "wavy" lines... Hard to describe, but it went away and loads up evenly after mine broke in.

Also, did you notice any of yours having raised edges or corners? Mine had two big honking burrs on both side that kept me from getting some blades perfectly flat ( and in some cases damaging the edge ) so I had to rub these sections off on a flattening stone.

Over all I love mine, I've used it for tons of knives by now, and more times than I can recall. The only time I break out my waterstone any more is if I'm working on a knife with serious edge damage--talking deformations or chips of .020" or more dimensions, or if the tip needs to be resharpened, something like that. I've even found that for me it's more useful as a finishing stone than the 1000 grit benchstone as I can control the angle and pressure better, and get much sharper edges off of it than off the 1000 grit waterstone.

I've been wanting to get the Extra Fine for a while, but just not sure I really want it. I'm already getting ridiculously sharp edges so it would only really be about the added bevel polish for me. As it is I actually really like the balance between toothy and polished that 600 grit leaves. I regret not buying the pack of 3, because if you buy them separately then by the time you factor in shipping, you're only like $10 off the price it would have taken to get all three.
 
Cool video. I have the same DMT credit cards. They ride in my backpack very well. Of course I prefer my full size DMT stones but in a pinch they work great. One problem though is that everyone knows I alway have them so I get hit up for sharpening pretty regularly.
 
I have a set of the Eze Lap credit card hones. Medium, fine, super fine. They are great. I started using diamond hones 25 years or more ago....and got hooked.

As stated above a lighter pressure will produce a finer edge, even finer than the rated grit of the hone.

One of the big advantages for me is the whole set takes up very little space and weighs next to nothing making them ideal for backpacking.

For EDC pocket use I carry a Falkniven DC4.
 
Good video, a bit light on the editing, but we're sharpeners not editors. :)
Thanks for the kind words. :) Yes, it’s a long vid. I always go into a new vid with the goal of making it short, but I’m usually trying a new technique or product, and so I spend a bit of time talking to explain things or just figuring things out myself. I didn’t want to leave anything out.

Cool video. I have the same DMT credit cards.
Thanks! : )

As stated above a lighter pressure will produce a finer edge, even finer than the rated grit of the hone. ... For EDC pocket use I carry a Falkniven DC4.
I thought about really dropping back on the pressure with my edge-leading, but I really just wanted to clean the burr off and have a slicing edge. I’ve got the DC4 on order and can’t wait to try it out!
 
I purchased just the Fine one sometime back in April, wanting to have a way to touch up my EDC wherever I went--friends houses, relatives, that kind of thing. I pretty quickly found that it worked really well for sharpening people's neglected blades. 1. I couldn't really tell in the video how bad that edge was, but it didn't look all that severe to me. Last time I was at my friend Claudia's, I sharpened I think 5 different cutco knives, a couple that were even more than 7" and they all had edges that looked similar. 2. I didn't really bother to get them as sharp as you did in the video, just slicing regular notebook paper, but it didn't really take me too long. Started when she started cooking dinner and was almost done when it was ready.

3. I really like the idea of using a mouse-pad for a non-slip surface. You commented that one side wasn't as sticky as the other... Perhaps you could cut out another layer with the same dimension, and glue the two less-sticky sides together. Then you'll have the same grip strength for the counter top and for the back of the DMT hone, plus it will raise it up a little bit more.

4. I use mine in a pretty odd way, maybe I'll take a picture if I'm feeling like it later but basically I just hold the edge of the hone with three fingers on the surface, and my thumb backing and pinching the hone in place on the underside. Then I just hold it there with my fingers and sharpen by pulling the blade toward me so I don't have any fingers in the way to cut. It takes a couple of tries to get use to, but I've gotten so use to it that I actually prefer this over using my benchstone as I can use both hands to manipulate both the hone and the knife blade, orienting and moving each one as needed, so I can get superior angle control than I could with a benchstone. Might be a useful tip though in case you're ever in a place where you can't set it down on a flat surface.

5. Also, you can get edges VERY sharp with just the Fine hone if you lighten up on the pressure to sub-knife weight levels near the end. I mean just barely touching, to the point where you can just barely feel the grit engaging the edge and can hear it even less. I do this for just a few minutes side-to-side after I get a knife shaving, paper-push-cutting sharp on it and it will take it right up to hair whittling. I strop on MDF loaded with CrO after that and it will tree top. Of course I'm using really fine grained steels ( 1095, 14C28N ) and 30-35 degree bevels. But I've been carrying just the one as the "minimalist" approach and I'm very surprised at what it's capable of.

6. When you were talking about the surface not being flat, is that just because the swarf would concentrate in one location more than the others? I also noticed that before the break in, the swarf would have kind of "wavy" lines... Hard to describe, but it went away and loads up evenly after mine broke in.

Also, did you notice any of yours having raised edges or corners? Mine had two big honking burrs on both side that kept me from getting some blades perfectly flat ( and in some cases damaging the edge ) so I had to rub these sections off on a flattening stone.


Over all I love mine, I've used it for tons of knives by now, and more times than I can recall. The only time I break out my waterstone any more is if I'm working on a knife with serious edge damage--talking deformations or chips of .020" or more dimensions, or if the tip needs to be resharpened, something like that. I've even found that for me it's more useful as a finishing stone than the 1000 grit benchstone as I can control the angle and pressure better, and get much sharper edges off of it than off the 1000 grit waterstone.

I've been wanting to get the Extra Fine for a while, but just not sure I really want it. I'm already getting ridiculously sharp edges so it would only really be about the added bevel polish for me. As it is I actually really like the balance between toothy and polished that 600 grit leaves. I regret not buying the pack of 3, because if you buy them separately then by the time you factor in shipping, you're only like $10 off the price it would have taken to get all three.

A wealth of good stuff in your post, Kenny. Thanks for watching and giving such excellent and thoughtful feedback.

1. It wasn’t all that badly chipped or nicked, but it was beat to hell with some very deep, uneven parallel gouges from a carbide V-sharpener, which ruined the bevel angle, as well.
2. In a similar situation, I’d have probably done the same. But being an anal perfectionist, I had to see how sharp I could get it. :)
3. That’s a damn good idea. To be honest, the top part of it is plenty grippy enough, but yeah, with two bottom halves glued together, it would be the ultimate. I might just try that.
4. Hmm. I’m very turned off by the idea of holding the card in one hand and sharpening with the other, but you do make a good point about not always finding a surface. That said, I don’t need a flat surface. Just some surface (even the top of a log) to rest it on. I can correct for a non-flat surface.
5. Yes, I agree that the edge can be taken to a higher degree of sharpness with just the stones. But it's a crappy knife, not even J.A. Henckels' good steel made in Germany, so I just finished on green compound.
6. Yes, the surface is uneven, with little micro “hills” or ridges like on some of my ultra fine Ceramic bench stones. I don’t think it’s just the swarf accumulating that way. In the vid, you’ll notice that it happens immediately. Plus I can distinctly feel the ridges while sharpening. Yes, one edge is raised a bit, but not enough to affect sharpening the whole edge, thankfully. I hope this stone breaks in as you’ve described, but even if it doesn’t, the ridges or waves don’t appear to affect the sharpening all that much.
 
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