Do you let your SAK's main blade snap closed?

hsherzfeld

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For years, I've associated the SAK's satisfying snap with Swiss quality and precision--that is, until I realized that every time the main blade on a SAK snaps closed, a specific section of the edge near the tip flattens itself by hitting the liner. Every. Single. Time. It happens on 91mm and 93mm SAKs; I assume it happens on 84mm SAKs as well, but I don't have any to test. So I no longer allow the main blade to snap closed; instead, I lower it closed by hand. It has become automatic muscle memory for me. And I never lend anyone a SAK to use the main blade because I know that they will snap the blade closed and I'll have to re-sharpen the tip! And I find the tip area to be the most difficult to sharpen without rounding off that beautiful pointy SAK point.

I realize that this problem is common to many brands and styles of slipjoint knives; in fact, the only pattern I've found that doesn't have the problem is the Barlow pattern with its deep handles. I guess I just find it annoying that Victorinox (who must be aware of this issue) hasn't altered the shape of the liner or added a bit more to the main blade's kick to prevent this issue.
 
I snap the blade closed on my alox pioneer because it makes such a satisfying sound. Haven’t noticed any flat spots on the blade, but it’s been sharpened a lot. Don’t think it had blade rap when new either though.
 
I often let it snap shut, have not seen any edge damage on my Recruit, Alox Army 1 or Mauser/Victorinox nor should I expect to if the knife is properly designed and assembled. It's not unusual that I have to close the knife with one hand against my leg or nearby object.
 
My answer in no way is sarcastic, but I have 100+ SAK's and never had one illustrate blade rap. Just to clarify @ hsherzfeld hsherzfeld is the blade hitting the aluminum liner or the bottom spring in the bottom of the knife well? Because I have had a few SAK's make contact with the separating aluminum liner.
 
The question is why you would want to let it close with a snap. Control and going slow is the key to avoid accidents with knives. By letting it snap, you may or may not do damage to the blade.
More important are your own fingers. Just fold it back gently and with some care and all will be just fine. Snapping is of no use.
 
My answer in no way is sarcastic, but I have 100+ SAK's and never had one illustrate blade rap. Just to clarify @ hsherzfeld hsherzfeld is the blade hitting the aluminum liner or the bottom spring in the bottom of the knife well? Because I have had a few SAK's make contact with the separating aluminum liner.
That's what I'm referring to. The blade is hitting the aluminum liner or the spacer between the small blade and the liner; it varies somewhat between my different SAKs. Is that not considered blade rap? I'm genuinely curious, having just learned that term today in this thread.
The question is why you would want to let it close with a snap. Control and going slow is the key to avoid accidents with knives. By letting it snap, you may or may not do damage to the blade.
More important are your own fingers. Just fold it back gently and with some care and all will be just fine. Snapping is of no use.
I agree, that's why I stopped letting it snap.
 
That's what I'm referring to. The blade is hitting the aluminum liner or the spacer between the small blade and the liner; it varies somewhat between my different SAKs. Is that not considered blade rap? I'm genuinely curious, having just learned that term today in this thread.

I agree, that's why I stopped letting it snap.
Technically Blade Rap is when the blade hits the back spring and even though I haven't experienced that with any of my SAK's I have had the blade hit the aluminum liners causing that flat spot on the blade edge and it is VERY annoying. Blade Rap is often times remedied with sharpening but fixing the blade hitting liner can be done but is more difficult by far. Krinking is the bending of the blade like what's found most often in a Stockman knife and can actually be tweaked so blades don't hit liners or other blades, but is a nerve racking experience as your literally bending the blade.

I did it once before with success with a "how to" from Modoc ED Modoc ED Thanks Ed, I was nervous the entire time and haven't attempted it since😬
 
Technically Blade Rap is when the blade hits the back spring and even though I haven't experienced that with any of my SAK's I have had the blade hit the aluminum liners causing that flat spot on the blade edge and it is VERY annoying. Blade Rap is often times remedied with sharpening but fixing the blade hitting liner can be done but is more difficult by far. Krinking is the bending of the blade like what's found most often in a Stockman knife and can actually be tweaked so blades don't hit liners or other blades, but is a nerve racking experience as your literally bending the blade.

I did it once before with success with a "how to" from Modoc ED Modoc ED Thanks Ed, I was nervous the entire time and haven't attempted it since😬
I don't think krinking would work in the case of the SAK's main blade, since the blade will hit either the aluminum liner or the steel spacer between the liner and the small blade. There's just nowhere to move the blade. I guess I'll just continue closing the blade by hand.
 
I don't think krinking would work in the case of the SAK's main blade, since the blade will hit either the aluminum liner or the steel spacer between the liner and the small blade. There's just nowhere to move the blade. I guess I'll just continue closing the blade by hand.
I agree that the space just isn't there, it kind of ties your hands in regards to options.
 
My dad and my grandpa taught me to hold the blade open And hold it to close. That was when I was 10-11 . I guess it stuck.
The question is why you would want to let it close with a snap. Control and going slow is the key to avoid accidents with knives. By letting it snap, you may or may not do damage to the blade.
More important are your own fingers. Just fold it back gently and with some care and all will be just fine. Snapping is of no use.

For any slip joint, I too think the best practice is to hold onto the blade and ease it back into the chassis when closing.

The reason being not every knife would have a kick(the part on blade where it contacts the backspring) good enough or executed well enough to stop the blade from contacting the back spring, and from a knife safety prospective, good control of the blade at all times will help to prevent accidents from happening.

However, having said that, Victorinox is one of the very few brands that I would not mind letting it snap shut after half point, their design and QC is pretty good, and I have good confidence the blade won't rap from snapping.

OP, if you experience blade rap from closing, that's not normal and you could talk to Victorinox since it's lifetime warranty.
 
Take for example a 91mm Spartan or 93mm Pioneer with there strong springs. Let the main blade snap and you would not want to have your fingers caught between the blade and handle. I think it is best to simply not let it snap. Saves the blade, saves your fingers.
 
I close them by hand up to the last inch or so and then let the blade go, no loud snapping shut. I just checked thru a bunch of mine and did find an old pioneer that evidently had some contact

*edit 12/29
I finally sharpened that pioneer last week and just now remembered to check…nothing. I let it snap shut several times and it shows no sign of blade rap. Evidently the damage I was seeing was from the previous owner. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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