Do you loctite your pivot screws?

Do you loctite your pivot screws?

  • Yes I use loctite or similar

    Votes: 23 69.7%

  • I don’t do anything

    Votes: 7 21.2%

  • You’re overthinking this

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • I use Teflon tape

    Votes: 3 9.1%
  • Total voters
    33
JC972

JC972

Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
1,627
Maybe I’m OCD, but for the last 20 or so years I’ve always used blue loctite on the pivot screws of my folders. I used to pull every single screw out of the knife and loctite every one of them but about 10 years ago I just started tightening them down good and loctiting the pivot screw. I’ve heard guys talk of using Teflon tape but have had mixed results myself with that. What do y’all do to ensure you don’t lose your screws?
 
I recently noticed that I'm missing a screw. Reached out to the company, they wanted a receipt for the knife...
Asked if they would give me the size information for the screw, so I could source it elsewhere - no response.

Previously, my answer to this poll would have been I don't do anything. I may have to rethink that :confused:
 
Blue loctite is your friend.

edit, dang buttons!
To add, a coworker had a pivot screw back out on a nice knife while he was working in a pipeline excavation. Not only did he lose the screw but the blade dropped out as well. He looked to no success and probably already covered by tons of backfill. Sad thing is he had the knife tethered to his belt so he wouldn’t lose it. He never gave a thought about losing the screw and blade.
 
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There is grey thread seal (Teflon) tape for stainless steel, but thread seal tape is a lubricant, so it is sort of the opposite of Loctite. I never use Loctite. If a screw is coming loose, it's pretty easy to feel it and tighten appropriately.
 
Maybe we are throwing arround the word Loctite and most people is thinking cianoacrilate glue... but Loctite has a huge catalog of threadlockers where you have to choose the most appropiate based on the size of the threads, base metals and how strong of a lock you need it. I don't recall the product numbers but usually people reffer to BLUE threadlocker for soft/medium locker that can be taken appart with hand tools only... an RED threadlocker (you better use heat to soften it before you ruin the head of the screw/bolt).

I solely use blue when I wrench on my vehicle and a couple times in other items.

Mikel
 
As I've gotten factory-fresh knives whose pivot screws can be undone by pressing down and twisting with my thumb, I always use Loctite Blue solid. The stick is a very convenient way to apply "an ounce of prevention."
 
Rich S said:
I hate Loctite. Like to be able to adjust pivot.
Click to expand...
If you use the blue loctite it can be adjusted , just a tiny bit will do. It’s the red loctite that sets it more permanent and requires heat to release the bond.
 
Depends on the knife. Some have good action and centering with the screw tightened down hard. I don't mess with those. On the other hand, if the screw has to be left semi-tight, I'll fidget with it a good while to see if the screw is going to walk. If it does, then I'll either use blue Loctite or super glue.
 
Blade Lab said:
Depends on the knife. Some have good action and centering with the screw tightened down hard. I don't mess with those. On the other hand, if the screw has to be left semi-tight, I'll fidget with it a good while to see if the screw is going to walk. If it does, then I'll either use blue Loctite or super glue.
Click to expand...
Same for me.
 
It depends on the knife. If you have a Hinderer and you use blue loctite on the scale screws you might never get them apart again. One end is a screw and the mating piece is a flat nut. If you use blue loctite on chinese screws you might strip them out when you go to remove them even with the blue loctite.
 
I guess I'm an option not present in the poll: Yes, if the pivot screw has a tendency to back out on its own. Otherwise, no.
 
Thanks for the responses everybody. I like seeing the different responses and how different people look at the same thing. I had sent an old benchmade back to the factory for a new blade and was curious if I should loctite the pivot when it comes home. I keep a bottle just for knife screws. Guess I might should’ve specified, I use blue 242 for this. I have red, purple, and even green but those are for stuff that ain’t knives lol. I used to use a brand called Vibra Tite and like it a lot but mine went bad in the bottle.

Over the years I’ve lost screws out of different knives and just wondered about what everybody else did. I do appreciate all of your responses.
 
Yes I have a few benchmades that require locktite. My only complaint with benchmade is. If you tighten the pivot so it doesn't back out then the blade doesn't flick open. If you loosen the pivot too much the blade wobbles. There's a sweetspot about the size of a hair that is perfect for flick ability. But that spot also is not tight enough to keep the pivot together after so long. You'd think benchmade would fix this issue 🙄
 
Kirk Raptor said:
As I've gotten factory-fresh knives whose pivot screws can be undone by pressing down and twisting with my thumb, I always use Loctite Blue solid. The stick is a very convenient way to apply "an ounce of prevention."
Click to expand...

On the reverse side of things, I've gotten factory-fresh knives whose pivot screws can't be undone because they've loc-tited the hell out of it. Like... strip your bits tight.
 
Mr.Mchauffinsauce said:
Yes I have a few benchmades that require locktite. My only complaint with benchmade is. If you tighten the pivot so it doesn't back out then the blade doesn't flick open. If you loosen the pivot too much the blade wobbles. There's a sweetspot about the size of a hair that is perfect for flick ability. But that spot also is not tight enough to keep the pivot together after so long. You'd think benchmade would fix this issue 🙄
Click to expand...
I've got a few Spydercos like that, too. I just deal with a little blade play, because the locks are secure.
 
Mr.Mchauffinsauce said:
You'd think benchmade would fix this issue
Click to expand...

Pretty sure that issue is called the coefficient of friction. Which means it's already fixed. 🤣

Fine, the coefficient of friction is not fixed in all situations. While it is often treated as a constant for a given pair of materials under specific conditions, it can be influenced by various factors. For example, the coefficient of friction can be adjusted by adding fillers to materials, which either increase or decrease it depending on the type of fillers used. Additionally, the coefficient of friction is a property of the surfaces in contact and is generally considered constant under the same conditions. However, practical applications may require experimental determination, as surface conditions, lubrication, and other factors can affect it.
But just let me have my joke, okay?
 
And now for my actual answer to this aged question: sometimes. I found that many knives, particularly Cold Steels and Spydercos, since those are the ones I have owned more of than any others, develop blade play due to gradually loosening pivots. I often used CA glue, (not Loctite usually, due to my abundance of CA glue at home and in shop) on the pivot screws, and it worked well. However, mystery of mysteries, I have never had that issue on any more than one or two of the couple dozen or so Chinese made Spyderco Resiliences or Tenaciouses I have owned, including those I currently still own.
 
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