Do you sharpen your Emerson on a Sharpmaker?

colubrid

colubrid

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Do you use the 20 or 30 degree angle ?

I can't get a Emerson sharp on a sharpmaker. Matter of fact it seems to dull them. Any suggestions?

If I should get a flat stone what brand and what grade? Can you please post a link to the proper stone. Or best type of sharpening system for the money. I don't want to get in above $50.
 
colubrid said:
Do you use the 20 or 30 degree angle ?

I can't get a Emerson sharp on a sharpmaker. Matter of fact it seems to dull them. Any suggestions?

If I should get a flat stone what brand and what grade? Can you please post a link to the proper stone. Or best type of sharpening system for the money. I don't want to get in above $50.
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I don't use (or have) a Sharpmaker, but I would imagine the 30 degree would get closer but still require a tilt of the knife to match whatever the factory angle was (they very from the factory). Best to use the sharpie method, ie color the edge with a sharpie (I like red or blue if you have a BT blade, that way you can see it easier) and make a pass, observe where the ink was removed, then fine tune until you discover the actual angle.
 
I have and yes even with the angels i had had to tilt the edge even further to get off the main grind and onto the actual edge it took a pretty radical tilt.
 
I use the Wicked Sharp and none of the Emersons I own have the same angles. The right side is usually 23-27‎° and the right side is 17‎°-20‎°
 
Dallas T said:
I have and yes even with the angels i had had to tilt the edge even further to get off the main grind and onto the actual edge it took a pretty radical tilt.
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so is it closer to the 20 or 30 degree on the sharpmaker?

which angle do you start with?

As for myself. I don't see every well up close. So hard for me to see the contact of where the edge meets on the sharpening sticks.
 
colubrid said:
so is it closer to the 20 or 30 degree on the sharpmaker?

which angle do you start with?

As for myself. I don't see every well up close. So hard for me to see the contact of where the edge meets on the sharpening sticks.
Click to expand...

Try the sharpie trick I described.
 
sharpmaker start with the 30 degree then the 40 degree only run a pass or two on the non chisel side as flat as possible. Then hit it on a strop for a few passes. I have the ultra-fine rods also and it really puts the edge on my Emersons. Hope this helps it take a little practice but you will get results.
 
I use 20 on mine. If you have the diamonds, they can set the edge well.
 
:)
sharpeningtable_02.gif
 
skypilot7103 said:
sharpmaker start with the 30 degree then the 40 degree only run a pass or two on the non chisel side as flat as possible. Then hit it on a strop for a few passes. I have the ultra-fine rods also and it really puts the edge on my Emersons. Hope this helps it take a little practice but you will get results.
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Thanks~
 
I am no freehand sharpener, but with Emersons I find it best to just hold the tri-rod from the Sharpmaker in one hand, the knife in the other, stand under some light so it’s easier to see when the angles match and then sharpen by hand. Its done in no time too :)
 
yes, but angles on emersons are not matched to either 30 or 40 inclusive.....15 or 20 per side. have to manually adjust your grip to compensate the wider bevel on bevel or chisel side of emersons. some applies to the microbevel flat side of emersons. just a different angle. I have a dozen emersons give or take a couple and none have the same angles on either side from the factory.

use a sharpie and see where your removing steel and adjust your angles so your hitting the edges. then remove the burr. it's not real hard just takes some patience and practice.
 
One of my disappointments with Emerson Knives is my (I did say "my" not "their") inability to get as sharp an edge as other knives irrespective of what modality employed. Don't flame me - just being honest.
 
colubrid said:
Do you use the 20 or 30 degree angle ?

I can't get a Emerson sharp on a sharpmaker. Matter of fact it seems to dull them. Any suggestions?

If I should get a flat stone what brand and what grade? Can you please post a link to the proper stone. Or best type of sharpening system for the money. I don't want to get in above $50.
Click to expand...

I’m not sure if you can do it because you need very steady hands. What I do is hold a sharpmaker rod in one hand and my Emerson in the other. Due to the grind on Emersons it would have to be mostly the Emerson in the left hand and the rod in the right.

I lay the side of the knife’s main bevel flat against the rod I’m holding and slowly raise the spine until I can sort of feel the edge bevel laying flat on the stone. Then I do about 15 strokes on the beveled edge.

Then I switch hands and lay either the flat of the back (if full chisel grind) or the non presentation side main bevel flat against the stone. I then raise the spine just a degree or two to knock the burr off the back.

Then I switch hands again and do as I did before to the presentation side edge bevel.

I repeat these steps over and over first on the grey/brown rod and then when it is quite sharp I switch to the white rod and repeat.

This probably won’t work for you on knives that yku have already used the sharpmaker on because the sharpmaker has likely already put a microbevel on the edge.

I recommend you ask your local sushi chefs where they get their knives sharpened or try and find a professional sharpener locally. (I have a local guy who uses japanese water stones and does a great job) You can get him to reset your edge bevels so they have no microbevel.
 
Emerson knives would be easier to sharpen if they used a conventional double sided grind instead of the asymmetrical bevels they currently do. Leave that to high end Japanese kitchen knives.
 
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