Does anyone have any experience with O7+?

Why would you pick that for a skinner blade ? Yes it would work though the W would make it hard to grind over other steels.
 
Why would you pick that for a skinner blade ? Yes it would work though the W would make it hard to grind over other steels.

Robert....what "W"? I've been trying to figure it out for a while, with no success. Thanks.
- Mitch
 
W = Tungsten

O7+ = We don't know what to call it! We had it analyzed and the closest steel was O7.

Mete is correct. It has lots of tungsten carbides and will be hard to finish after heat treating.
 
For those who collect trivia, an archaic name for tungsten is "wolfram", hence the chemical symbol "W".
 
W = Tungsten

O7+ = We don't know what to call it! We had it analyzed and the closest steel was O7.

Mete is correct. It has lots of tungsten carbides and will be hard to finish after heat treating.


I would think it should be a great edge holder for this very reason.
 
The key word is "Vanadium" makes it tough but is a toxic heavy metal!
Kind that gives you headaches and settles in your Liver I believe.
I have used S5 before and water quenched it with good results, S7 is close.
 
Yes W=wolfram [german] while Tungsten [swedish]=heavy stone !! Fe =ferrum [latin] =iron. Lots of interesting stories !!
 
Why would you pick that for a skinner blade ? Yes it would work though the W would make it hard to grind over other steels.

Well for one thing Mete, it is available in thin stock at around .100 thickness, just what I am looking for. Another thing is that AKS is not that far away from me and I can save a lot on shipping. I like thin stock, and would prefer 1/16" or 3/32" 1095 or O1 but the cost for shipping these steels is higher then that of the steel itself.:thumbdn:

On another note Mete, I believe you said in another thread that A2 holds a better edge than CPM 3V. I would have thought that 3V with its vanadium would have come out ahead. Can you enlighten me on why it does?
Thanks,

Phil
 
vandium usually comes along with tungsten right? i used to think a tungsten blade would be cool, as hard as it is. are there many steels with dangerous alloys? i can never remember about that stuff.
-Lou
 
L.K.Smithy, just don't eat the steel ! Always use a proper respirator when grinding any steel ..Toxic or not particles of anything in your lungs is bad.......Magneto, remember it's not just the vanadium but the vanadium carbides that give wear resistance. So look at the carbon content AND the carbide formers [especially those that form very hard carbides ,V,Mo,W]
 
thats some interesting stuff there might have to try it

at first i thought a Blue steel but i dont know now
 
I forged out a sample strip that Chuck stuck in my pocket a while ago, and it's hard but moves under the hammer if you keep it hot.

The composition is very similar to an old high tungsten steel used by a friend in Japan for plane making - so I wanted to see how it behaved. If they use it for plane blades, and you can get the heat treat right, it ought to do well in slicing knife applications.

I forge welded up a couple of kiridashi (small single bevel) blanks and cracked the steel on one of them forging too cold on the laminated blank and haven't gotten around to working the other to see if I could avoid cracking it.
 
I am glad on one hand this thread came up cause I am waiting to get bread ahead to try the steel. I just hope not enough people read it and buy all the stuff I wish I could over at AKS:D It would have been great to go to MKA show and "shop" with AKS.
 
Annealing ,1450-1500, forging 1800-2000 F, hardening 1450-1625 F [O or W] ,tempering 325-550 F.
 
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