Don't make the same mistake I did

xbxb

xbxb

Basic Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2005
Messages
1,618
I just spent 4 days digging out old caulk around a shower stall and cleaning it so I could put new caulk in. I used GE Silicone II 100% silicone sealant product number ge5010. It has now been 2 days and it is still tacky so I called GE to find out how long it takes this stuff to dry. They Said---- If it has not dried in 24 hours you must have gotten a bad batch and it wont dry. You will have to dig it out and start all over again. OH No I was on my knees for 4 days messing around with the old stuff and now --Crap!! I have to mess with sticky caulk and try to clean it out and of course I have to get it the surface entirely clean because when I put new caulk down if it gets on the old bad caulk it wont seal. I feel like slicing my wrist with my new mountain man schatt. Any suggestions? with the caulk ----------not the wrist thing.
 
I did a stone stairway repair with one of those sacks of cement mix -it didn't set $*&$@% . They replaced it without question but i had to redo the work . Have fun !!! Actually ther may be solvent to remove silicone thoroughly , ask GE.
 
If you have drywall up around the shower then just trim the drywall. Pull out the trimmed drywall with the unset caulk and then fill in with fresh cut drywall pieces. :eek:
 
Yup! Been There, Done that.

Now step back and "step away from the blade"

If the caulk is still VERY wet (did not start to set at all), wipe out what you can with a plastic scraper (I use old credit cards or the like). Paper towels, wear gloves.

Then use Goof-Off, it will remove most if not all of the residue from the silicone. You may have to roll some off with your fingers, but it shouldn't be too bad.

If it did start to set, and has a "skin" on it, Razor Blade, then Goof-off.

Now for the important part!!!!:

Don't use that GE crap ever again!!! Use 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant.
It is available in black, white and clear.
MASK the area. If you get 5200 on something it stays there!!! 3M 5200 actually sets by drawing moisture out of the air and reacts with it to cure.

If you take your time and put the 3m stuff on carefully, it will look AWESOME, It will NEVER mold or mildew, and it will last almost forever (10-15 years)

Make sure you take the masking tape off ASAP. The 5200 will adhere to it and get ugly (take it off within two hours)

The Big-box stores carry the 3M stuff, it's a little more money, BUT WORTH EVERY PENNY.

Feel free to e-mail me through the forums if you have any questions!

Greg
 
Thanks Greg, very kind of you. I'll do what you say. What a major pain. I may even email you if I have a question. Once again thanks
 
Thanks for the heads up, I have that same job to do, and now need to go see what kind of caulk I got...
 
A question, where did you find the "product number?" Are you talking about the batch number? So far things aren't looking good, it is the same product you describe, just wondering if the batch number makes any difference...
 
also another pointer, If you get the toothpaste tube stuff, apply it by giving the tube a slight twist and then folding it over working from the end toward the spout. Move your hand along at smooth and crisp pace, it is worth it to practice a bit on the inside of some card board boxes to get that smooth pull with your hand while squeezing the right amount. Position yourself so that you do not have to stop during the bead. I do it often enough at work when we finish out a house that everything gets "dapped" it makes seams, gaps and little mismatches disappear. I find that I can get new people to do a good job in about 20 mins. So spend an extra 10 bucks and buy a few tubes to practice with. (its cheaper in the long run than doing it over and over again.)

If you get the solid "gun" tubes, buy a good caulking gun, a 3 dollar POS gun is not going to work as smooth or as well as a 15-20 dollar gun and will waste more than it cost in wasted caulk by doing a crappy job. I find the Albion brand to be the best. (remember the old guns that gave you hand cramps and then let all the caulk ooze out when you stopped? Albion's will prevent that. Then get a big card board box and practice a few times with your caulk. I use 5200 more as an adhesive than a caulk, I prefer Sikaflex as a bathroom sealant. just my .02 worth but I do this for a living.
 
Another tip on the subject I find useful. If you want to smooth out a silicon bead once it's laid, dampen one of those big yellow grouting sponges and squirt a glob of liquid dishwashing detergent in the middle of it. Dip the tip of your finger in the detergent before running it along the bead. Go for aways and then clean off you finger on the sponge or a paper towel and repeat as necessary. Go slow and without applying too much pressure.
 
Triton I would put a bead of the caulk on an old rag and let it set for 24 hrs to see if it cures. If it does you have a good batch. The product number is on the side of the tube in small letters and yes the batch number would make a difference. You might have the good stuff.
 
Thanks for the information guys I will tackle the problem again Monday night. I have put the Mountain Man back in the drawer. My wife did not want red caulk.
 
Just a note on 5200... it is the most adhesive thing in the entire world. On boats, they don't recommend using it on anything you might conceivably ever want to take apart again, because you might destroy what it is you're taking apart before the 5200 lets go.

As an example, if you look at this picture (Link to sailboat pic, you'll see a wooden trim piece that goes all the way around the outside of the boat. This is called a "caprail". I read about a guy that was removing the teak caprail on his 38 foot sailboat (same size as the one pictured), and found out that it was held on with both screws and 5200. It came off with a crowbar. In 3 inch long pieces.

They use polysulfide sealants on boat decks... that would probably work as well, but isn't nearly as adhesive.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/35.htm

http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/sealant.asp
 
whoa!!!!! this is a shower, and Im not going sailing. Thanks
 
A similar thing happened to me with two part epoxy years ago. I had just glued and rivetted together the handles on a set of kitchen knives that were running late on an order.

The lousy epoxy did not set. Gave it a few days and it was still soft just like it was when I mixed it. I had no choice but to drill out the handles and start from scratch.
 
I like Lexel. And it can be reapplied without removing the old caulk.

Big Stretch is another good product by the same company.
 
I'm glad I found this thread. I'm having the same problem in my tub/shower. I had to peel up all of the old caulk that the installers used because it got moldy and had some funky orange hue to it. I didn't feel it was safe at all for my kids. Now I know what I need to use to keep it from getting fouled up.
 
It's been about 4 days now and my caulk is still tacky ----but good news!! When you touch the caulk it no longer smears white on your finger it is just still sticky.
 
I use sikaflex at work for certain applications when assembling wind turbines. The sikaflex survives temps. from +200 to -60 or below. The turbines have a 20 year warranty. I haven't tried any at the house yet but it works very well on the turbines.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top