"Dragging" the Burr Off - Is This a Popular Technique?

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I just came across this idea the other day: sharpen your knife to the grit you want, then drag the edge through layers of tightly folded paper towel, to pull the burr off. Then finish by stropping.

I did it last night with a Ahti/Kellam carbon steel puukko. It did pretty good. I want to try it again in the future to see how it does.

How popular is this technique?
 
I like this technique on Titanium, i use the edge of a piece of cardboard or end grain of some wood and push/pull cut to remove a fine burr. This helps keep the edge aggressive and works especially well with the Ti/Carbide.
 
I watched a friend sharpen his knife on a sharpening stone away from the edge , not edge forward , made a few passes in cardboard and resumed cutting the meat off of an elk . Must work .
 
I just came across this idea the other day: sharpen your knife to the grit you want, then drag the edge through layers of tightly folded paper towel, to pull the burr off. Then finish by stropping.

I did it last night with a Ahti/Kellam carbon steel puukko. It did pretty good. I want to try it again in the future to see how it does.

How popular is this technique?

There is no way that a real burr (attached metal beyond the apex) will be dragged off by paper towel. Todd shows some amazing electron microscopy pictures of edges on his website "scienceofsharp" and even dragging an edge through wood rips of some but folds over most of burr. You may be able to "clean" up the apex with your approach with the finest contamination of the edge from recent sharpening operation. On some steels, repeatedly dragging the edge very carefully through wood, back to the stone, some light passes, back to the wood and so on helps cleaning up the process but I would not generally recommend that.

In your case, maybe you have slightly bent the rest of a burr that was there and coincidentally stropped it of easier when you started on the side where the burr was now leaning to.

In the other cases, cardboard was used which of course is an abrasive, quite an aggressive one that many use for stropping anyway. I can see that that would work in a different way than paper towel.
 
Some burrs can be removed this way, and others won't be. I've noticed, fairly often, very fine burrs coming off in simply slicing a single thickness of phonebook paper a time or two (first slice snags on the burr, 2nd and subsequent slices are dead-smooth & snag free), so I could see a paper towel working for those as well. Nicely hardened 1095 (Schrade USA) or CV (Case) can respond to it at times, in my own experiences. A lot depends on how fine the burr is in the first place, after the stone work. Some very ductile steels' burrs won't be fazed at all by it, especially if they're very thick or heavy (strong resistance felt by thumbnail, for example); I've noticed such burrs on softish 420HC (mid-50s HRC), or VG-10 and ATS-34 up to HRC ~60 or so, which are extremely tenacious and won't be removed by anything other than further abrasive work on stones or compounded strops. Even cutting into hardwood won't move or bend those ones, in most cases.


David
 
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I use a wine cork and then strop. You can buy blocks of dense felt specifically for the purpose.
 
I worked with a master mechanic. He went on to teach at the best international school in the world for his branch of work and has authored books.

He had a term that he would use occasionally when he saw work that was not even up to standard every day exceptability.
And he had a little sound he would make when he would be walking by and see some one making an error in judgement or poor technique . . . he would make a sound like two or three short, low whistles. Kind of a peep, peep, peep.

That sounded like a bird. He did not sound like a bird. He had the greatest personality and sense of humor; I miss him quite a bit.

Oh and the term he would use for that sort of work was : Hack
But he would kind of drag it out . . . haaaaaaak.

Dragging an edge with a bur through paper or wood ?

Haaaaaaak . . . peep, peep, peep
 
How popular is this technique?

Cheep knives are very popular as are most every thing . . . cheep. Part of the reason we find our world the way it is today. Don't get me started.

I find with the cheep stainless steels it is almost the only way to get rid of the dang bur because the nickel and what not just is so flexible and mushy like chewing gum you can't hardly abrade it when it gets so thin.

Good steel lets go of the bur real nice and there is no problem.

Cheep stainless is a hack's knife metal and dragging the edge through end grain wood or paper is . . . well . . . we've covered that already . . .
 
I've had various results with the "drag through" technique. I usually use cork, or cardboard, or wood. Mostly cork. Sometimes it works fairly well; other times it just seems to stand the burr up, in place, which is not a good thing. When the burr gets stood up, it seems like it's sharp, but it's actually weak.

These days, I usually only use this when I'm using a powered system, but I'm starting to question myself on this point too.

Brian.
 
I just came across this idea the other day: sharpen your knife to the grit you want, then drag the edge through layers of tightly folded paper towel, to pull the burr off. Then finish by stropping.

I did it last night with a Ahti/Kellam carbon steel puukko. It did pretty good. I want to try it again in the future to see how it does.

How popular is this technique?

It's very popular with those who who trust Bounty . On soft substrates Charmin is the best . Enjoy the go ! There are at least 10 threads somewhere addressing this very issue .
 
Someone sells a deburring felt block. I've seen it on here. I'm sure if you google it you can find it if you are interested.

I use a large paint stir. Like for a 5 gallon bucket. I broke it to about 6 inches long. I drag the blade through the soft wood between grits.
 
There is nothing does it better than an ERU sharpener and it can be done at any chosen angle. It will remove the burr and strop the apex with just a minor adjustment in angle.

Fred
 
There is nothing does it better than an ERU sharpener and it can be done at any chosen angle. It will remove the burr and strop the apex with just a minor adjustment in angle.

Fred

Correct. Cheap steel or good steel. It just works.
 
The idea is not to rip the burr off but to weaken it so that further honing removes it. I have a 2x4 next to my grinder I use for this exact propose.
 
I keep a small piece of PEX waterpipe next to my bench - it works great for a fold and grind method and OK for dragging.

IMHO the drag method works best when employed often, not just at the end.
 
I don't know if tightly folded paper towels would work, but sometimes I've used the pull technique by dragging the edge on a piece of softwood, like pine, with minimal pressure. Then strop.
 
Yup, I just used the wood that my strop is bonded to. I use very light pressure and pull from heel to tip, then back tip to heel. Then its back to the strop.
 
Me thinks the OP title is not descriptive of what is taking place, when drawing an edge, with burr attached, through some type of "V". The "V" may be created as the result of cutting through some material; or like the ERU, being pulled through a refined "V", with abrasive sides. I can only really speak on the ERU, but basically all the above techniques are similar. The resistance created removes the burr material.
I don't think it's advisable to raise a large burr. Doing so means either you went to far on one side, or the edge is violently out of it's original geometry. With a small burr it is much easier to remove it without damaging all the work thats been done to create the edge.
"
I always sharpen at specific angles, relative to the abrading material. This makes the entire sharpening process go much faster, in as much as, every pass across the stone or plate is just like the previous one, resulting in a straighter more aligned apex. Don't switch sides, when sharpening, not until you have the burr developed on one side. Switch from side to side once the burr is developed and you are getting into finer grits. `
Once I've developed a "small" burr, tip to plunge, I switch to the ERU, set at double the angle used on the diamond plate [Inclusive Angle} or maybe slightly increased, depending on how I want to remove the burr.
You can "feel" the burr come lose from the main body of the edge, when passing through the "V". At this point I don't think the minute wire edge material is being dragged away from the apex, it is more a matter of the apex geometry being refined, thinned, polished, with the hinge part of the burr, thinned to the point it disappears, or its's ground away. Without the apex being refined by abrasion/lapped then what we are left with is a jagged edge.

Edited for the sake of clarity. Toothy edge is far to subjective to make any kind of blanket statement. FR


So whatever the material or technique used, removing a burr results in different outcomes from each or a succession of many of techniques.

The reason I say the ERU is the best tool to remove a burr is that it contacts both sides of edge/qpex at the same time, which keeps the apex aligned and centered.

So whether you "drag" "tear" "thin" "snap" "wear away" or any of the other adjectives that describe the process of going from a toothy edge to one that is very refined, remember to look closely at what the edge itself is doing and most of all Learn when to stop

Sorry for the windy explanation but removing the burr from an edge and accomplishing it in a manner that maintains a sharp edge, is important.

Regards, Fred
 
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