Me thinks the OP title is not descriptive of what is taking place, when drawing an edge, with burr attached, through some type of "V". The "V" may be created as the result of cutting through some material; or like the ERU, being pulled through a refined "V", with abrasive sides. I can only really speak on the ERU, but basically all the above techniques are similar. The resistance created removes the burr material.
I don't think it's advisable to raise a large burr. Doing so means either you went to far on one side, or the edge is violently out of it's original geometry. With a small burr it is much easier to remove it without damaging all the work thats been done to create the edge.
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I always sharpen at specific angles, relative to the abrading material. This makes the entire sharpening process go much faster, in as much as, every pass across the stone or plate is just like the previous one, resulting in a straighter more aligned apex. Don't switch sides, when sharpening, not until you have the burr developed on one side. Switch from side to side once the burr is developed and you are getting into finer grits. `
Once I've developed a "small" burr, tip to plunge, I switch to the ERU, set at double the angle used on the diamond plate [Inclusive Angle} or maybe slightly increased, depending on how I want to remove the burr.
You can "feel" the burr come lose from the main body of the edge, when passing through the "V". At this point I don't think the minute wire edge material is being dragged away from the apex, it is more a matter of the apex geometry being refined, thinned, polished, with the hinge part of the burr, thinned to the point it disappears, or its's ground away. Without the apex being refined by abrasion/lapped then what we are left with is a jagged edge.
Edited for the sake of clarity. Toothy edge is far to subjective to make any kind of blanket statement. FR
So whatever the material or technique used, removing a burr results in different outcomes from each or a succession of many of techniques.
The reason I say the ERU is the best tool to remove a burr is that it contacts both sides of edge/qpex at the same time, which keeps the apex aligned and centered.
So whether you "drag" "tear" "thin" "snap" "wear away" or any of the other adjectives that describe the process of going from a toothy edge to one that is very refined, remember to look closely at what the edge itself is doing and most of all Learn when to stop
Sorry for the windy explanation but removing the burr from an edge and accomplishing it in a manner that maintains a sharp edge, is important.
Regards, Fred