Dremel....standard flex shaft vs fortiflex

TonyRV2

TonyRV2

Joined
Feb 21, 2007
Messages
270
For those of you that have used both, can you justify the added expense of the fortiflex setup which is pretty much stationary from what I understand, or is a standard dremel equipped with a flex shaft just as effective....OR...is there a reason that a person should have both, for instance the fortiflex for the added power and the standard for the portability. Any input would be appreciated, thanks. Maybe I should just ask over at the local rotary club. :rolleyes:
 
I just spent 2-1/2 hours running a Foredom flexshaft in a drill press stand full out with a carbide rotary file. There is no Dremel made that could have stood up to that! Buy once, cry once!

Bob
 
I should have pointed out that I'm not locked into the Dremel brand. I've also looked at the Foredom's and was surprised that one can be had for about the same price as a Dremel Fortiflex.

Edit: This looks like a decent price for a Foredom kit: Fordom Kit at Amazon
 
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The SR is the one I have and it has taken a lot of abuse without a hiccup. That 2-1/2 hours of grinding was on full thickness 1/4" 440C, making an inlay template. I highly recommend getting a hanger for the motor. I think this is a better deal from Rio Grande- Foredom SR w/stand

Bob
 
i have the fortiflex. It is an heavy duty unit; less rpm but a whole ton load of torque more than the other dremel offers. I don't deem it as inferior to the foredom by any means.
I have both the beefy 3jaws chuck handpiece and the lighter collet handpiece...i use the latter 99% of the time.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. I wound up ordering this Foredom TX300 kit from Rio Grande: TX300 Kit
I considered the TX440 Industrial Kit as well but in terms of the available handpieces the 300 series seems more versatile to start out with. The 300 still has the 1/3hp motor but doesn't have the heavier duty long flex shaft. On the other hand, I doubt that I'd ever in the foreseeable future nead the capabilities of a 1/4 inch collet that comes with the 440, along with 2 others. All in all, it seemed a good entry point for a Foredom and I could always add a 440 motor and flexshaft later if need be.
 
That is a good unit.

The heavy and longer shaft plus the 1/4" capability is very useful for wood carvers, but less needed for most metal work. Your 300 series will be a joy to use.

Do the maintenance on the motor and shaft on a set schedule to keep it running forever. At least yearly for hobby use, and bi-monthly for professional daily use. Get an extra shaft to have on hand, because eventually you will break one. The sleeve lasts a very long time for most people and a spare sleeve isn't usually ever needed.
 
Good advice Stacy, thanks again. I'll order an extra shaft today to keep on hand.
 
After using up a Dremel I got a Foredom and recomend it to everybody
Mine hangs from a curtain rail hanging under the ceiling so I can move the moter around in my work shop
works well
 
Yes, hang it on a swing arm or a rail. A shower rod works great and allows the tool to be slid to different locations down the bench.
 
I've burnt out or worn out a couple of Dremel's, and currently have a Foredom I've been using for a few years now. The Foredom hasn't missed a lick. I don't know about the Dremel fortiflex, but I'll take a Foredom over a standard Dremel any day! The only advantage the Dremel has is it's easily portable to anywhere you've got a plug or extension cord, for bench operations and a flex shaft I've been very very pleased with the Foredom.
 
The Foredom TX300 will be here on Monday. I'm looking forward to putting it through the paces....I'm hoping its a step up from my Ryobi hand held unit. :D (which incidentally I've had for years!)
 
I just picked up a foredom and a bunch of accessories and bits from a retiring jeweller for $200cdn which is like $10 usd:D. Absolutely night and day difference from my dremel. Great to have 1/4 collet and foot control too.
 
One word of caution, just make damn sure you don't step on the foot controller while changing bits, not a bad idea to have it plugged in to a plug strip that you can switch off or unplug. The 1/3 horse motor has enough torque to wrap you up in it, even with the pin through stop on the hand piece. Ask me how I know this.
 
Will52100 said:
One word of caution, just make damn sure you don't step on the foot controller while changing bits, not a bad idea to have it plugged in to a plug strip that you can switch off or unplug. The 1/3 horse motor has enough torque to wrap you up in it, even with the pin through stop on the hand piece. Ask me how I know this.
Click to expand...

Ok...I'll bite...How do you know this? I detect a story here that you seem reluctant to share with us. :D
 
Tony,
1/3 HP doesn't sound like much power when you think about a 2X72 grinder, but in relation to a 1/4" ball burr on the end of a thin flexible shaft, it is a lot of power.

I suspect those who use a flex shaft all day long have all done this ... many times:
We get used to pushing our toe down to make things happen. It becomes automatic - when things are in place or lined up, you step on the pedal without even thinking about it. When changing a burr, the key is placed in the handpiece to loosen the chuck, ... and without thinking, the toe goes down to make it turn. This creates that situation where the handpiece is locked by the key and the motor is turning. The sheath starts to curl in a circle around your arm, and then the shaft breaks in half with a loud "Wham". This all happens in about 500 milliseconds. Thus my advice to always keep a spare shaft on hand.

The other scenario is dropping or loosing control of the handpiesce while hogging away wood when shaping a saya, and having a 1/2"X1" cylinder burr grab you pant leg. It will wrap it up in a tight wad, and maybe give you a little bite. It usually doesn't do much physical damage to you ( beyond another hole in your work pants), but it will usually make you have to change your shorts.
 
I have been unimpressed with anything Dremel I have used in the past 10 years. It's a shame.
I still have an original Moto Tool on my bench from the 1970s. It works fine.
I recently bought a new Dremel cordless model. It vibrates and you have to reset the speed control each time you start it.
I only use Dremels for light bench work. Heavy work is done with the flexible shaft machines.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Tony,
..............The sheath starts to curl in a circle around your arm, and then the shaft breaks in half with a loud "Wham". This all happens in about 500 milliseconds. Thus my advice to always keep a spare shaft on hand.

The other scenario is dropping or loosing control of the handpiesce while hogging away wood when shaping a saya, and having a 1/2"X1" cylinder burr grab you pant leg. It will wrap it up in a tight wad, and maybe give you a little bite. It usually doesn't do much physical damage to you ( beyond another hole in your work pants), but it will usually make you have to change your shorts.
Click to expand...

*Note to self...Always have a spare shaft in the shop, and a few pair of shorts.*
 
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